I found these FJ1200 engraved adjustable levers on eBay. They are inexpensive from China. They look pretty good. I will take more photos once they are installed.
Fred
Nice find!
I take it those match up with the OEM master cylinders (or you'll know for sure once they arrive). Keep us posted.
I would buy 2 sets; 1 set for backup once the first set gets abused.
Quote from: Charlie-brm on April 03, 2018, 08:07:09 PM
Nice find!
I take it those match up with the OEM master cylinders (or you'll know for sure once they arrive). Keep us posted.
I would buy 2 sets; 1 set for backup once the first set gets abused.
These are photos that I took. I have them on hand. I will install them by the end of the week.
Fred
These levers come in a variety of colors.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Adjustable-Brake-Clutch-Levers-For-Yamaha-FJ1200-FJ-1200-1986-1997/183120459783?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Adjustable-Brake-Clutch-Levers-For-Yamaha-FJ1200-FJ-1200-1986-1997/183120459783?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649)
Also, they are NOT for the ABS master cylinders.
Fred
I wasn't aware that the ABS bikes used different brake master cylinders. I don't think they do
I thought only the brake light switch was different. That possibly makes the lever different?
The levers are installed. A word of caution. The clutch lever, even in position 1, is still pretty far out. Folks with large hands may really like these.
Fred
Those look pretty dam good Fred :good2:
Quote from: big r on April 04, 2018, 10:35:50 PM
Those look pretty dam good Fred :good2:
Yes they do... but now they clash with the worn out paint on the m/c cap... :shok: ...... :mocking:
Fred. I'm trying to eliminate some uncertainty on my part that I can use these levers you just got. When I bought OEM style levers last year for my 1985 FJ1100, the Yamaha part number that matched up correctly to the images I'm posting of my old one is 36Y-83912-00 which every reference says is for years 85 and up (86-93 or 86-95 depending on the seller). The references I've found for 1984-85 don't have the second hole for the brass bushing. I can't tell from any images of the Ebay extendables if they will mount up and function like the ones I need, ie like my posted images. It's possible my master cylinder was changed by a P.O.
(https://blackrivermedia.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/old-clutch-lever-underside.jpg)
(https://blackrivermedia.files.wordpress.com/2018/04/clutch-lever-and-bushing-oem.jpg)
Hi Charile
If yo can give me 24 hours, I can confirm it they will fit on my 84 FJ. I have just bought a set of these ( with out the engraving) to fit newer FJR style Clutch MC. I do know that it has the spot for the brass bushing.
Mark
Charlie. Your clutch leaver is different toy FJ1100 one, so the new lever won't fit mine, but it may fit yours
Mark
Well look at that! The new one on the right of your photo looks to be what I need. You say you ordered it with no engraving? Can you provide a link to those please.
That would suit me since mine is not a 1200 but an 1100 (I re-read my post of last night and see I made some typos as to the year of my bike. It's a 1984, not 1985), and I'm not much for emblazoning logos on me or my toys in any case :) I think I'll like the colour scheme "Titanium".
Now, does anyone know where to find bar ends that will at least look like satin finish bare steel/stainless steel? I used to sand mine down to bare metal and loved the look but they wouldn't stop corroding, even with umpteen clear coats. I'm assuming the real deal heavy ends provide a benefit I won't get with aluminum products.
Quote from: Charlie-brm on April 06, 2018, 11:50:08 AM
Now, does anyone know where to find bar ends that will at least look like satin finish bare steel/stainless steel? I used to sand mine down to bare metal and loved the look but they wouldn't stop corroding, even with umpteen clear coats. I'm assuming the real deal heavy ends provide a benefit I won't get with aluminum products.
I found these when I did the upside down fork conversion on my '89. They are solid stainless steel and very heavy. I have seen 2 versions. A short version, which I used, weighs 14oz each. The long version weighs 16oz each. The brand is HVMP
I ordered mine from eBay.
https://goo.gl/images/VCA1aR
Fred
Charlie
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273045930052 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273045930052)
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 04, 2018, 08:45:21 AM
I wasn't aware that the ABS bikes used different brake master cylinders. I don't think they do
I thought only the brake light switch was different. That possibly makes the lever different?
On the PartsnMore site the clutch levers has the same OEM number(1AE-83912-00) for both FJ1200 & FJ1200A.
The brake lever for the FJ1200 (36Y-83922-00) and for FJ1200A it is (3YA-83922-00).
So maybe there is an difference between the non-ABS and the ABS on the brake lever.
Quick update, I jumped on these engraved levers back when the thread first posted, and they arrived yesterday. I LOVE EM! 5 minute install, and they fit perfectly. The only hitch was the thread pitch for the brake adjuster bolt didn't match the OE bolt, so I luckily had a sweet stainless hex button head bolt in my "misc" jar that fit perfectly.
I love the engraving and the adjustability.
(https://i.imgur.com/wneZxTT.jpg)
Clutch side
(https://i.imgur.com/OY6gG6f.jpg)
Thanks for the link Fred!
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on April 04, 2018, 08:45:21 AM
I wasn't aware that the ABS bikes used different brake master cylinders. I don't think they do
I thought only the brake light switch was different. That possibly makes the lever different?
:Facepalm:
Just figured this out when I couldn't see my brake light on my way to work this morning. I hadn't ridden the bike in the dark since I installed the levers. The brake light switch is on continuously, since there is no tab on the lever to keep it pressed.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ya97Vt4.jpg?1)
I'll probably just modify the lever by adding a tab. The picture of the lever on Ebay seems to show a tab, but there's really no way to know what you're getting. Ill post a pic once I add the tab.
Rick, fit one of these, they cost $10. I haven't replaced a genuine switch on any bike for years, I use these.
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JSqXvgpG69A/maxresdefault.jpg)
Noel
Quote from: ribbert on April 24, 2018, 09:36:02 AM
Rick, fit one of these, they cost $10. I haven't replaced a genuine switch on any bike for years, I use these.
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JSqXvgpG69A/maxresdefault.jpg)
Noel
Perfect! Thanks Noel!
edit: Am I looking for an M10 x 1mm thread?
Nope...A 2 wire switch will not play nice with Rick's ABS. The red ABS check light will start glowing.
You need a 3 wire switch (normally open /common/ normally closed) http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0)
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 24, 2018, 12:13:24 PM
Nope...A 2 wire switch will not play nice with Rick's ABS. The red ABS check light will start glowing.
You need a 3 wire switch (normally open /common/ normally closed) http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0)
Uh oh... is this gonna be a mess? I had a simple idea for adding a tab to the lever... Maybe it's time to delete the ABS. I plan to do that before installing braided lines anyway.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 24, 2018, 11:26:10 AM
Perfect! Thanks Noel!
edit: Am I looking for an M10 x 1mm thread?
Rick, the thread pitch for the banjo's is M10 X 1.25mm
Regards, Pete.
Quote from: ZOA NOM on April 24, 2018, 12:49:25 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 24, 2018, 12:13:24 PM
Nope...A 2 wire switch will not play nice with Rick's ABS. The red ABS check light will start glowing.
You need a 3 wire switch (normally open /common/ normally closed) http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0 (http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17650.0)
Uh oh... is this gonna be a mess? I had a simple idea for adding a tab to the lever... Maybe it's time to delete the ABS. I plan to do that before installing braided lines anyway.
Rick, why not use the Banjo Switch and a simple cross over relay?
Quote from: fj-f3a on April 24, 2018, 06:45:25 PM
Rick, why not use the Banjo Switch and a simple cross over relay?
Good call Gavin. That would get Rick back on the road until such time he does the ABS'ectomy.
Rick, let me check something first. I mentioned the normally open / common / normally closed because that is what I remembered when working on Jason's '93, *but* I may wrong (it's happened)
The switch may be normally open / common / normally open design.
We know one side of the 3 wire switch sends 12v power to the tail light.
We know the other side of the 3 wire switch signals the ABS ecu, but not sure if that's normally open or normally closed.
You can check your switch to see....
I went the simple route for now. Tie-wrap around the switch and use the rear brake for the brake light. Now I can brake without alerting anyone behind me, he he... :)
Once I rip out the ABS, I'll be in business. Also, I think there are levers on FleaBay that actually have the tab, which would be the best route. They're under $30, almost disposable at that price.
edit: Thanks for the info, Pete
Rick, just an FYI, yes it's a normally open / common / normally closed switch
Quote from: Pat Conlon on April 24, 2018, 10:47:14 PM
Rick, just an FYI, yes it's a normally open / common / normally closed switch
Thanks Pat
Other buyers; how long was it between ordering and arrival?
I got my first tracking notice and it shows Shipped May 5 - Estimated Arrival July 5 >>> 2 months.
China sellers give themselves a lot of lee way but other stuff I've bought (Gearbest, Aliexpress, DX) barely took a month.
I didn't get the impression from this thread that anyone had to wait 2 months to see their levers.
Sounds like a slow boat... Mine was less than a month.
I cheated. I used self adhesive chrome decals with clear film.
Quote from: Jeff0308 on May 16, 2018, 05:29:50 PM
I cheated. I used self adhesive chrome decals with clear film.
I would have taken that option for blank levers. My bike is an 1100 so the "FJ1200" on the eBay ones is going to feel out of place, unless it makes me faster. The previous owner had gone to the trouble of getting locally cut red vinyl that read FJ1200 on those long narrow panels under the seat. I can't figure out some people.
Easy fix Charlie, just get a bigger engine.... :good:
Quote from: Pat Conlon on May 16, 2018, 09:39:57 PM
Easy fix Charlie, just get a bigger engine.... :good:
Damn! I thought if I just changed all the emblems to 1200 I'd be half way there.
When I was a teen I was quite responsible (my dad would doze off in the passenger seat on the highway) so I got to take the family cars for weekends hours and hours away and for a period, it was a '74 Dodge Charger.
It was "only" a 318 and back in 1974, 318 ci was considered a family car, right? So unless a gear head asked what was under the hood, being a Charger was enough to get some attention. I miss those days.
OK guys - I found my adjustable eBay levers in the mailbox today. That's only 18 days after ordering so excellent service. Man these things have really good finishes and don't feel cheap at all. The finish I ordered is "Titanium."
They are not installed yet but I put some good images in my gallery.
Three bits of info for prospective buyers - the thread size for the brake lever stop screw is M6. The reach adjuster offers about 32 mm of range, measured at the end ball.
The lever width slides out 32 mm, to at least 90 mm of width on the flat area of the lever.
(http://fjowners.com/gallery/10/581_17_05_18_4_07_12.jpeg)
Quote from: Charlie-brm on April 06, 2018, 11:50:08 AM
I used to sand mine down to bare metal and loved the look but they wouldn't stop corroding, even with umpteen clear coats. I'm assuming the real deal heavy ends provide a benefit I won't get with aluminum products.
I know!! Whats the go with that. i tried just clear coats first, then after the rust spots came back I then coated them in Aluminium Kill Rust spray, which looks great, but..... spots are coming back again. have treated the metal and all, very strange. Will have a look at Freds link for the S/Steel ones.
I orderd the titanium.I'm hoping it'll active the stop light switch.
A brief follow up after getting them on and a few hours of riding. They feel a bit more comfortable on the fingers than OEM ( I always wear leather gloves ). I think because they are wider/thicker.
They offer a 6 position adjuster, but on my FJ at least, none of the settings move it closer to the grip than stock. All of the options only move the lever further out. That's a consideration for anyone expecting to get the levers nearer the grips. Nuh-uh.
Cosmetically, I dulled down the emblazoned "FJ1200" by applying and wiping off a few applications of a black Sharpie permanent marker. We'll see how that holds up. Bold white lettering was bugging me since I like things toned down, more Amish, plus my ride is an 1100.
Got mine today. Felt like a gamble but I am impressed.
Double-check the screws and tighten everything up. I lost the blue extension on one side and had to ride home using one finger for the clutch.
Probably an ideal place to use a drop of threadalock compound.
Will do for sure.