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#1
Great news everyone!!! I kept the bike inside overnight and warmed it up for an hour with a space heater, it didn't start initially but I shot a light blast of starter fluid behind the air filter as 86FJNJ suggested and the bike fired right up and appears to be running and starting like normal again!  :yahoo:  :good2:

Pat I appreciate the insight regarding E10, I'll be storing the bike for the winter soon and will take the proper care. Unfortunately up here in Canada, it's not possible to find ethanol-free fuel anymore. The bike will definitely be parked indoors from now on.

Thanks everyone!!!
#2
Modifications / Re: jetting for 4-1
Last post by manden - Yesterday at 11:41:38 AM
42.5 pilots and 117.5 mains have been ordered from frank. ill try that first :)
#3
Maintenance / Re: '85 FJ will constantly kee...
Last post by T Legg - Yesterday at 04:36:51 AM
Quote from: T Legg on November 11, 2025, 11:19:42 AMThe contacts are open until the coil is energized.When the key switch and kill switch are on the red/white wire to the coil has 12 volts . Then if the clutch switch or nuetral switch are closed the black/yellow wire to the coil has a path to ground energizing the coil and the contacts close.

I was wrong when I said this.
 (Now when the starter switch is pushed 12volts is supplied to the stafter relay coil through the blue/white wires through the cut off relay contacts .)

  The starter relay coil 12 volts comes straight from the battery so its always hot. the blue/white wire is connected to the ground side of the starter relay coil and then to the cut off relay contacts.When the cut off relay contacts close the blue/white wire connects to the starter switch which when pushed connects to ground and runs the starter. The fact that turning the kill switch off stops the starter shows the cut off relay is working. That means the problem is after the cutoff relay.
 A nick in the wire insulation shorting to ground could cause the problem. The blue white wire goes to the starter switch but also goes to the diode block so a nick could be any where along the way.
#4
Maintenance / Re: oil sensor replacement
Last post by filsurs - Yesterday at 03:40:46 AM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 12, 2025, 05:22:33 PMCorrect, it is an oil level light...thankfully not oil pressure.

Very common to have it blink on during hard acceleration.

We call it the kookaloo light.
:mocking: nice thxs very much !!!!
#5
Are you using E10 fuel?

If so, at those temps the 10% ethanol in your gas sucked the moisture out of the air.

Your carbs are now full of 50% fuel and 50% frozen water. No wonder it didn't start.

E10 fuel (open to the atmosphere) really really really sucks below freezing temps.

Drain and wash out your tank. Remove the fuel bowls from your carbs and clean them out.
If you must keep your FJ outside in below freezing temps, do not use E10 fuel.
Use non ethanol fuel with a cold weather stabilizer.
#6
Maintenance / Re: Top End Oil Leak
Last post by JohnnyTheCraneGuy - November 12, 2025, 07:30:42 PM
Gotcha, Pat!

Will definitely try not give in to the temptation of that although it is strong  :rofl2:

#7
Yamaha FJ1100 / FJ1200 Running Problems / Re: 1992 FJ1200 - Cranks but n...
Last post by FJHero - November 12, 2025, 07:22:52 PM
Thanks everyone for the replies. For more context, the bike was parked outside for a few nights unused where the temperature was falling below freezing, It was probably 40°F when I attempted to start it with full choke and good battery. I'm keeping it in my garage overnight and will continue with my diagnosis again tomorrow after warming it with a space heater as suggested by 86FJNJ, will check for fuel and then spark but I'm hoping the bike just finds ignition when it's warmer  :biggrin: .

@Pat your memory of the fuel pump circuit seems consistent with what's on my FJ, my Haynes manual had me looking for a fuel pump relay that I just couldn't find unless it's much further forward on the bike. Thanks for the tip about bypassing the fuel pump!
Manual attached for reference.


I'll update again tomorrow!
#8
Maintenance / Re: oil sensor replacement
Last post by Pat Conlon - November 12, 2025, 05:22:33 PM
Correct, it is an oil level light...thankfully not oil pressure.

Very common to have it blink on during hard acceleration.

We call it the kookaloo light.
#9
Maintenance / Re: Top End Oil Leak
Last post by Pat Conlon - November 12, 2025, 05:19:46 PM
If it was a new gasket, you should be able to reuse it.

Some RTV on those half moons should do the trick.

Don't use RTV on the entire gasket, Randy yelled at me for doing just that....but I will say, that fucker didn't leak.

Alas, poor Randy had to use a crowbar to get the valve cover off.

Good for you in tracking down the leak. Kudos.

#10
Maintenance / Re: Top End Oil Leak
Last post by JohnnyTheCraneGuy - November 12, 2025, 04:17:53 PM
Well I finally traced down the culprit of the leak! It's coming from the damn intake side of the valve cover gasket where the semi circle is  :dash2:

Its sucks because the PO had just finished doing the valve adjustments this summer so its still fairly new, oh well!  :hi: