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Quote from: FJmonkey on Today at 10:59:43 AM.....This is also why some of us have converted to DOT5 (ok for street but can't take the higher heat of hard frequent braking.

Au contraire my simian amigo... DOT 5 has substantially higher wet and dry boiling points than DOT 3/4.

However, DOT 5.1 vs DOT 5 are very close

DOT 5 wet: 356°F
DOT 5.1 wet: 356°F

DOT 5 dry: 500°F
DOT 5.1 dry: 518°F

That said, I have DOT 5 in my '84 and DOT 5.1 in my '89. There is a subtle difference between the two.
Both front brake systems with identical components, Spiegler lines, R-1 calipers and 2001 FZ1 14mm masters.
The lever feel with the DOT 5 is softer (not spongy) than the system with DOT 5.1.

If you are using DOT3, 4 or 5.1, keep it covered/sealed from the air when possible. They will absorb moisture. This is why we need to change/flush the fluid when it gets dark. This is also why some of us have converted to DOT5 (ok for street but can't take the higher heat of hard frequent braking.

I leave it closed. There is air space under the covers, and when the bubbles make it there you are set.

I did a similar thing to compend

Quote from: Sparky84 on November 18, 2025, 02:51:13 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 18, 2025, 12:59:43 PMHere's what it looks like:

My Helmet is just above turbulence, only problem with taller screens is that you don't get any cooler air.

Pat, I like that big chunky "heel" on your side stand, does the extra weight affect the stand staying put when in the "up" position ... like when your riding, doesn't bounce around?

What's it made of and how did you fix it on ?
I've been Thinking of a carbon fibre block underneath .


[/quotes

Quote from: Sparky84 on November 18, 2025, 02:51:13 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 18, 2025, 12:59:43 PMHere's what it looks like:

My Helmet is just above turbulence, only problem with taller screens is that you don't get any cooler air.

Pat, I like that big chunky "heel" on your side stand, does the extra weight affect the stand staying put when in the "up" position ... like when your riding, doesn't bounce around?

What's it made of and how did you fix it on ?
I've been Thinking of a carbon fibre block underneath .

I did the same thing but i used a hockey puck instead of aluminum.

Wow,  I never knew that  thxs.  Must the reservoir cover be open or closed during this process?

The theory is compressing the fluid also compresses the air bubbles. Smaller air bubbles fit through the holes easier, rises up into the reservoir and it self bleads that last little bit.

Quote from: filsurs on Yesterday at 10:41:51 AMwhat will be the effect if tie-down the handle?

That lets the bubbles float up to the reservoir overnight where they no longer cause softness in the brake lever.  I do this after service too.  Also works on the clutch.

Quote from: 86FJNJ on Yesterday at 08:25:28 AMMy suggestion would be to remove the rear wheel and check everything and likely just change the wheel bearings. Have you ever changed wheel bearings before?

How many miles are on your chain and sprockets?

These bearings should be what you need if your FJ is 1984-1990

https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3ARWBK%28E%29

thxs...will have a look

Quote from: Sparky84 on November 07, 2025, 03:49:53 PMAs suggested, tie that lever back and it seems there is still air in there somewhere.

More bleeding, more and more.
Jiggle that lever, don't pull it all the way it but just giving it multiple jiggles (and you are only just moving it a touch).
Perseverance is the key Chip 

You are using new fluid ?

what will be the effect if tie-down the handle?