RPM took the guesswork out:

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AFJ41ForkR%2FBKit

Get the bug shield option...then get one of these:

http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3AForkBrace

Your front fender tabs will thank you.

Never had the front forks apart on my steed, plan to replace the springs and install the gold fork valve emulators this winter. Looking at the exploded view diagram to determine what parts I will need is confusing. Any suggestions as to which seals need to be replaced for the described work. Yes I could take them apart and figure it out, trying to save some time though and have parts on hand. Any help would be appreciated.

Quote from: giantkiller on Yesterday at 04:42:43 PMYah Pat.I got a brand new ebay Chinese copy feul pump. With the 92 I just picked up. The stock one gave up. So I put the brand new copy on. It lasted about 50 maybe 60 miles.

If you open up the Chinese pump and look at those cheap stamped points vs the quality of the Japanese pump, the difference is striking.
Oh but they have a "lifetime warranty" If you even do manage to reach them (good luck) they will just send you another cheap pump.

Thanks again to RPM Robert for bringing me out a real pump to the WCR in Coleville. The RPM pump is still running fine.
Lesson learned.

Quote from: JohnnyTheCraneGuy on Yesterday at 03:37:53 PMDont tell me it really is in the ignitor   

I just got back and tested continuity on the pump itself and it rang out good, then i checked for voltage from the connector with the bike running and then continuity and got no voltage and open line of course!

Good that you checked the fuel pump power with the bike running. I made the mistake checking the 12v power for the fuel pump with the key on....but the engine off.
I forgot about the 5 second power off function when there is no rpm signal to the ignition box.
Of course I had no power. I turned the key on, then casually walked around the bike and connected my multi tester, by then the 5 seconds had elapsed, thus no power. A rookie mistake.

You can look for another ignition box or like 86FJNJ did, install an aftermarket fuel pump safety switch and power your pump off your green plug, or other switched power plug.
This will bypass your ignition box.

I'm glad you got home!   Cheers. Pat

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 11, 2025, 06:27:11 PMMy first thought...battery. But if the starter motor continues to turn over the engine without slowing down... then rule that out.

I'm going by memory but if I remember correctly, the fuel pump does not have a stand alone control relay (like the starter)
The control on the power for the fuel pump runs through the ignition box which also regulates the 5 second delay.
It's doubtful that went bad....what can go bad is the fuel pump itself.

Next: Rule out bad fuel pump. The contacts in the pump can be going bad and/or leaking diaphragm.

All Fuel pump FJer's should know that if they are out on the road and their fuel pump goes bad... (fuel starvation, e.g. running out of gas with plenty in the tank) they can bypass the fuel pump to get home.

All fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this



Pull the seat and right side cover. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines from the fuel pump and with the line connector, connect the two lines together. I use a rubber shod small needle nose vice grip to pinch off the fuel line coming from the tank, that way I don't have to dick around with that fragile petcock.  I release the pinch clamp when the line connection is secure.

See if that gets gas to the carbs...it should....unless that's not your problem.

[rant on] If you do need a new fuel pump, DO NOT buy the eBay Chinese pumps. Buy oem Yamaha, Ask me how I know. [rant off]


Next step is to check the ignition.
Take a spark plug out and see if you have spark.

Let us know what you find.

Yah Pat.I got a brand new ebay Chinese copy feul pump. With the 92 I just picked up. The stock one gave up. So I put the brand new copy on. It lasted about 50 maybe 60 miles.

Dont tell me it really is in the ignitor   

Had the bike die on me while riding yesterday. Pump wouldn't prime when turning the bike on, had a buddy grab a coupler for me, disconnected the pump that way it wouldnt be running dry if it was intermittent. Alan told me though that it runs off of the rod position of the solenoid on the diaphragm.

I just got back and tested continuity on the pump itself and it rang out good, then i checked for voltage from the connector with the bike running and then continuity and got no voltage and open line of course!

Thankfully all my other spare carbs are for gravity fed! 

Quote from: Pat Conlon on November 11, 2025, 06:27:11 PMAll fuel pump FJer's should keep a male/male fuel line connector in their tool kit like this

Tell me why this just happened to me yesterday well at least I got one now!

I'm using this bulb on my FJ nice and bright

https://ebay.us/m/9fuj4n

Are you touching the glass on the bulb? That will do it.
Is the plug securely clicking on the tangs of the bulb?
You are using the dust shield, right?  Is it on correctly, arrow pointing up?

Rule out vibrations:
Is the bulb spring retainer clip properly latching, good and solid? No rattles?
Is the headlight housing properly mounted with oem vibration isolation bushings?
They wear out, dry up and degrade, gotta get fresh rubber bushings sometimes.
Headlight housing mounting bolts too tight, over torqued?

I used Sylvania and Oscram bulbs years ago but have since converted to LED so I don't know which halogen bulbs are the best today. I do know the headlight relay harness mod was very effective in getting the maximum wattage to the halogen bulbs, although not really needed with the LEDs.

Folks can chime in on today's best halogen bulbs, I'm not current.

Electrical system ok? Did you check your red plug? Is your system overcharging?

hey boys

my 88 1200 keeps blowing headlight bulbs. voltage seems ok.

any ideas?