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2014 New Year Project

Started by Swifty, December 28, 2013, 04:49:13 PM

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Swifty

Happy New Year!  Swifty here, wishing all a Happy New Year. My New Years resolution is to join the FJ forum to gain from your insights, talk with fellow riders, owners, and wrenchers.  I have a new to me 1986 FJ1200, with only 3100 miles.  It has not run in perhaps 15-20 years.  I got it from a friend whose brother had it and dropped it twenty years ago.  Unfortunately he got sick and died before he could fix it.  It has sat in a garage along with many other bikes waiting for repair. The family liquidated all his bikes, and I was fortunate to see this FJ1200 in the back of the garage, and took it home with me. 
I have changed to oil, pulled the carbs for cleaning, and checked the tank, which is clean.  It has a little bit of surface scratches and a couple cracks in the fairing on the right side fairing and chin cowl. 
I would like to refurbish the bike to its original condition.  I would appreciate any insights you all might have.  Where I can get a new chin cowl, or how to fix this one.  What else I should do prior to starting, running the bike.  I plan on cleaning the carbs, and cleaning, flush and inspect the brake calipers, master cylinders.  Thank you for any advice you may have.  I have been working on bikes as a hobby for a number of years now. 
I am located in south west New Hampshire.
Thanks for listening,
Swifty
Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But rather, to skid in sideways... totally worn out and broken, shouting "Holy crap, WHAT A RIDE!"
1986 FJ1200
1985 VMax
1962 YDS2

Arnie

Hi Swifty,

Happy New Year.  Congrats on saving the FJ from the barn.

What to do.......

Clean the carbs, get the "socket head screw & O-ring kit" from Randy at rpmracingca.com to start.  That will also give you a step by step description of what and how to do it.  You can get some pics of the procedure here in the files section too.

Before you ride it again -
Change the oil and filter.
Replace your fuel and vacuum lines (take pics so you get the orientation correct)
Replace the brake lines with SS brake lines.  The OEM lines on your bike are way too old to be used safely.
Replace the brake and clutch fluid - flush the lines and calipers with new fluid once and then refill with clean new fluid.
Replace the tires.  Yes, I know they look like new, but they are OLD, and cracked, and hard as iron with grip to match - Replace them
You will probably (almost certain) also have to replace the battery.
Wash, clean, and lubricate everything you can get to.
Ask on this list for someone local to you to help you balance your carbs.
Check your fuel tank petcock carefully.  Safety wire it if needed.

The chin cowl is difficult to find, search Ebay.  If it can be repaired, that may be your best option.  Learn to plastic weld. 
Harbor Freight has some cheap plastic welders

There is more you could do to the bike, but that will get you started.
rpmracingca.com is a good and reasonably priced source for most parts, and Randy is an active member here.

aviationfred

In addition to what Arnie has already posted. With the bike sitting for 2+ decades. I would also consider replacing the fork seals and purchasing a New rear shock from Randy at RPM.

+1 on finding an almost new FJ.

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

Swifty

OK Swifty her again.  Thanks to all for the advice.
So, here goes...
Here is my 1986 FJ1200 as it is now. 

Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But rather, to skid in sideways... totally worn out and broken, shouting "Holy crap, WHAT A RIDE!"
1986 FJ1200
1985 VMax
1962 YDS2

Swifty

Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But rather, to skid in sideways... totally worn out and broken, shouting "Holy crap, WHAT A RIDE!"
1986 FJ1200
1985 VMax
1962 YDS2

Swifty

Here's the last three pics full size...







I'll update this on what Iv'e found and as the project progresses.

C'yall next year!!!

Swifty

Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But rather, to skid in sideways... totally worn out and broken, shouting "Holy crap, WHAT A RIDE!"
1986 FJ1200
1985 VMax
1962 YDS2

Joe Sull


Let's see what it say's here.....



Yup! Just change the oil. :rofl2:
You Keep What you kill

Capn Ron

Swifty,

What a great find and a fine looking FJ she is!

Keep up with the pics as you get her all cleaned up and back in spec.

Cap'n Ron. . .
Cap'n Ron. . .


There are two types of people in the world...Those who put people into categories...and those who don't.

Swifty

1986 Yamaha FJ1200
January 2, 2014
Swifty here, I must thank you all again for the inspiration.  They say that if you tell someone your goals, you are more likely to succeed.  Thank you for your support!
Anyway, first thing on the list; change the oil.  Here's what it looked like.  Still new? Changed it anyway.



Here are the plugs.  They look like they are the originals.  With only 2143 miles I'm going to treat this as a new bike break in maintenance!



C'ya later,
Swifty
Life's goal is not to arrive safely at the grave in a well preserved body. But rather, to skid in sideways... totally worn out and broken, shouting "Holy crap, WHAT A RIDE!"
1986 FJ1200
1985 VMax
1962 YDS2

FJ_Hooligan

Two things to be aware of:
You're missing a large thin washer that is hopefully still stuck to the rubber grommet on the oil filter element.
Be very careful on the filter housing "drain bolt" when you put it back together.  It will strip really easily.  If you get it back in and all sealed up, never remove it again.
DavidR.

Pat Conlon

Or.......Just get a spin on filter adapter from RPM and be done with it......

Judging by the condition of paint on your oil filter housing, I would bet you a jelly donut that your clutch slave is leaking...
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

aviationfred

Here are a few items you may be interested in to give the new to you FJ years of reliable service.

Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild kit.
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3AS%2FK&cat=39

Clutch Slave Cylinder if your OEM Slave is corroded
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Clutch%3Aslavecyl

Spin-on Oil Filter Adaptor
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=spinonfilteradapter&cat=39

Spin-on Oil Filter
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SpinOnOilFilter

Spin-on Oil Filter Magnet
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=OFM&cat=39

Fred
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

stua1959

That large thin washer - is it important ? I dont have one , what does it do ? And yes the spin on adaptor is on the list

movenon

Quote from: stua1959 on January 03, 2014, 07:06:43 AM
That large thin washer - is it important ? I dont have one , what does it do ? And yes the spin on adaptor is on the list

I would recommend you get another washer.  Looks like it provides a bearing surface for the spring. The washer is fairly thick so it probably provides some small preload for the spring.  It is 2 to 3 dollar item from Yamaha or RPM.  If it wasn't required Yamaha would have not installed it.  The filter, what ever type you use is in the heart of the motor.  IMO don't leave parts out.  :good2:

Don't pinch the side stand wire when you reinstall the housing. It is easy to get trapped under the housing and housing O ring.

Two of the best convenience items that I have done to my bike is the spin on oil filter and the UniPod air filters. I do all my own service work. When you convert to a spin on filter you eliminate the spring, washer, inside filter, o ring, housing, bolt, drain screw and the chance of pinching your side stand wire. It makes oil changes a lot less messy and quicker.  :morning1:
George
Life isn't about having the best, but about making the best of what you have...

1990 FJ 1200

FJmonkey

I went years without that washer, did not know it was supposed to be there till I saw it in a diagram. I could have bought a new washer but I got the RPM spin-on adapter instead. Way better than stock. And no more pinched wire causing leaks.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side