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Go-to Chain Lube - What's Yours?

Started by FJ1100mjk, October 19, 2014, 08:28:24 AM

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Dads_FJ

Quote from: FJ1100mjk on October 20, 2014, 06:39:43 AM
Thanks everyone for the feedback on the chain lubes. A number of good options, and the opinions of them, are always good when they come from the users.

An automatic chain lube system has always been an intriguing method to me. I have read about them, and the  users'opinions of them vary. Some are pricey, but I think it goes along the line of your getting what you pay for. Spend some decent money, and you'll be happier.

I've been happy with my DIY gravity fed unit:  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=6714.0  Only change I made since I wrote this up was adding a regulator to adjust the flow.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not 'selling' the benefits of an automatic chain oiler, just passing along what works for me :)

For what it's worth, Yamaha seemed to think an auto-oiler was necessary and implemented one on my TY250. 

John S.

'84 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'92 Yamaha TDM850
'80 BMW R100S/Sidecar
'81 Yamaha IT250(H)
'77 Yamaha IT175(D)
'39 BSA WM20

FJmonkey

Sounds like some older Harley bikes. The tech back then was prone to leak, might as well direct it to the chain.... Innovative for the time...
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Dads_FJ

Quote from: FJmonkey on October 20, 2014, 08:42:05 AM
Sounds like some older Harley bikes. The tech back then was prone to leak, might as well direct it to the chain.... Innovative for the time...

Yea, so was the FJ - Innovative for the time.
John S.

'84 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'92 Yamaha TDM850
'80 BMW R100S/Sidecar
'81 Yamaha IT250(H)
'77 Yamaha IT175(D)
'39 BSA WM20

FJmonkey

Quote from: Dads_FJ on October 20, 2014, 08:45:54 AM
Yea, so was the FJ - Innovative for the time.

Maybe I need to develop a drip pan to catch the Left side oil leaks and direct it to the chain. Then oil changes will be dynamic (continual loss/replace) and filter changes will still be scheduled. I think not. I just thought that the thought process (adapted during the 60's) and what the current tech provided was clever...

Not only is the FJ innovated for it's time, it still rocks on as great platform and permanent ride for my two wheel addiction. 
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

FeralRdr

I tend to switch back and forth between Maxima Chainwax, and Motorex Road or Race Chain Lubes (whichever is on sale).



I've found that between the two brands, the Motorex lubes have very little fling and tend to last longer than the Maxima wax (chain feels noticeably more tacky after several hundred miles than when using Maxima).  Having said that, the Motorex lubes tend to be more expensive than the Maxima wax (especially the race lube), which is why I'll shop around, and if I can't find a good price on the Motorex lubes I'll pick up the Maxima.  In terms of longevity, I've gotten upwards of 30,000 miles on DID ZVM-2/X chains using these lubes.  I've found that for best results, wiping down the chain after applying the lube does a good job of further minimizing fling, as well as helping to clean the chain and rear sprocket.




Dan Filetti

I clean my chain with a rag and WD40, then, I have been using a Honda Chain Lube product.  Seems to work well enough.  Based on the input from this thread, I just ordered some TriFlow from Randy, as my Honda Lube product is nearing the end of it's can's life. 

Note: for god's sake, as tempting as it may be, NEVER put the bike on the center stand, running, and in gear, to assist in lubing the chain.  I've read so many stories/ seen too many pictures of mangled fingers as a result of this. 

A side story if I may, that illustrates the point, I recently crushed the shit out of my left hand pinky.  Got it caught between a fence post and moving commercial mower handle.  I lost 1/2 inch of my finger....  Not being shy, I posted a pic of my freshly mangled finger on FB, I'll spare you folks the gory details.  However, immediately folks were convinced it had been from lubing the chain with the bike running and in gear, on the center stand.... It's that common...

Stay safe out there folks,

Dan

     
Live hardy, or go home. 

Firehawk068

Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 20, 2014, 12:29:07 PM
Note: for god's sake, as tempting as it may be, NEVER put the bike on the center stand, running, and in gear, to assist in lubing the chain.  I've read so many stories/ seen too many pictures of mangled fingers as a result of this.     

What Dan said..................................I am always afraid to stick my hand into anywhere there is moving chains and sprockets........

Some years ago, a friend of mine that I used to go snowmobiling with in Buffalo, was using a piece of sandpaper to scuff the belts on his Oldsmobile..........with the engine running.............You can guess what happened.
Luckily, they were able to sew the pieces of 3 of his fingers back on........... :shok:
Alan H.
Denver, CO
'90 FJ1200

The General

Quote from: racerrad8 on October 19, 2014, 07:18:18 PM
Tri-Flow.

I lube the chain weekly after the ride, when the chain is hot. The Tri-Flow is a light enough oil to be able to penetrate past the o-rings and lube the internal pins of each link of the chain.

It is amazing how much the chain will absorb when hot and the correct lubrication is used.

My current DID chain has over 10K on it and I only check & adjust it at every oil change if required.

Randy - RPM
Hey Mate, I`ve never pulled apart a worked chain link nor a new one. Given that all the main load bearing surfaces that need oil are on the inside of the O-rings has anyone checked or tested if oil gets passed these seals?

While I do the usual tricks (Hot chain, inside, watch fingers etc) I`m guessing you`re saying the oil seeps out of these O-rings (due to heat or pressure I guess) otherwise we wouldn`t be able to get this later applied lubricant into them. This of course means the thick no fling stuff, never makes its way into this area me thinks. But this could be a good thing if O rings seal correctly.

The face of the links that are not exposed, do they wear from say, grit?  If so, is that an area that deteriorates the function of the chain enough to affect say, chain stretch or chain life? ...I don`t think so.  I know that if I leave my DR for some months after a wet ride without chain lube that surface area can get rusty  and cause a prob. But it was easy fixed with oil and a ride.

I guess I`m thinking new chains just need some non fling, anti rust coverage, old chains need thinner stuff, but be extra vigilant when lining up some fun on left hand corners. (Work`s better than "1 pound of certified "organic" Slippery Elm Bark by Starwest Botanical's"...if there`s oil on tha tyre & you`re constipated)

Note: I lazily thought it can`t and won`t fling onto the important section of the tyres...only the pretty outer face of these particular bias tyres....Never thought of it`s reverse tracking in those tyre grooves designed ta push water outwards. (got her all crossed up under power...which I kept on...heeeeehehe)  :drinks:
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

The General

Just found this:  O-ring bike chain wear locations

I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)

`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

Arnie

Chainsaw oil in my DIY semi-auto chain oiler.
~4oz bottle fill lasts longer than an oil change and I re-fill it then.
I've had 54K kms (37K miles) out of a DID ZVM2 chain using this oiler.

Yeah, it is a bit messy but I no longer have a white rear wheel.
$400 for a Scott oiler?  You must enjoy throwing away your money.

 

Dan Filetti

Quote from: The General on October 20, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Just found this:  O-ring bike chain wear locations

I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)



Interesting video.  He concludes it is exclusively the pins that wear, (and he's probably largely right) but he made no attempt to determine whether the play in the worn chain was from pin wear, or from some elongation of the pin holes on the plates.  I imagine it may be a combination of both.  Interestingly, I have always lubricated that outer gap between plates to minimize that elongation-type wear, he seems to conclude it's a waste.

Dan 

Dan 
Live hardy, or go home. 

mr blackstock

G'day,

When i bought my Fj she came with a scottoiler, a vacuum pump version running of the carb inlet balance tube.  After a bit of google research and trial and error I discovered it to be great!  For me the best combination was a 5 weight oil with some sticky additive.

I get very little "oil fling" and the chain is almost always clean.  below is a link to the one I have, and it is pretty cheap for $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662

If I get another bike, I will be getting this type of scottoiler, not the expensive digital version.

Cheers, Gareth
Squeaky wheels always get the grease...

Yamaha FJ1100 1985

ribbert

Quote from: mr blackstock on October 21, 2014, 05:42:02 AM
G'day,

When i bought my Fj she came with a scottoiler, a vacuum pump version running of the carb inlet balance tube.  After a bit of google research and trial and error I discovered it to be great!  For me the best combination was a 5 weight oil with some sticky additive.

I get very little "oil fling" and the chain is almost always clean.  below is a link to the one I have, and it is pretty cheap for $120.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scottoiler-vSystem-Chain-Oiler-Kit-to-fit-Honda-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Yamaha-Triumph-/350321890463?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5190cfd49f#ht_1388wt_662

If I get another bike, I will be getting this type of scottoiler, not the expensive digital version.

Cheers, Gareth

Yes Gareth, 99% of the testimonials swearing by the benefits of a Scott oiler were written about the vacuum models. The E-System oiler is probably aimed at gadget tragics and I don't believe does any better job of oiling the chain but does have some nifty features, are they worth another $200? Hmmm....maybe.

V or E, they are a great thing. As I mentioned, when first fitted the fling off was black and gritty, now it just perfectly clean, not that there is much of it but I do like to err on the oily side.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

The General

Quote from: Dan Filetti on October 21, 2014, 05:18:51 AM
Quote from: The General on October 20, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Just found this:  O-ring bike chain wear locations

I can see merit in a chain guard that covers 180 deg of secondary sprocket. (along with scot oiler maybe)



Interesting video.  He concludes it is exclusively the pins that wear, (and he's probably largely right) but he made no attempt to determine whether the play in the worn chain was from pin wear, or from some elongation of the pin holes on the plates.  I imagine it may be a combination of both.  Interestingly, I have always lubricated that outer gap between plates to minimize that elongation-type wear, he seems to conclude it's a waste.

Dan 

Dan 
It would be interesting to see if one can squash that worn length to achieve any noticeable difference in length. (back towards original length).

Would be an easy way to measure the difference between the combination of Pin wear (including any elongation on plates) and link stretch, me thinks.
If a difference existed after said squashing towards original size, than wouldn`t the new measurement be that of plate stretch exclusively?
`93 with downside up forks.
`78 XS11/1200 with a bit on the side.
Special edition Rocket Ship ZX14R Kwacka

56 CHEVY

I have used Bel-Ray Super clean chain lube for the last 4 or 5 years and like it. Very little if any fling off and when it comes time to clean and relube the chain, WD-40 and a rag takes it right off.