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Hydraulic Clutch Bleeding

Started by Benno #03, March 12, 2015, 09:39:02 AM

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Benno #03

Hey Guy's.
I've spent the last two afternoons trying to bleed my clutch.
At first the nipple was blocked and fluid was escaping between the hex and the bike.
Cleaned and cleared today and have bled and bled the line.
Followed Workshop Manual Procedure Correctly.
Have clear tube looped and other end in a container of fluid to prevent air re-entering.
I get some feel in the lever, only to lose all pressure completely on the next bleed.
I can't see any leaks anywhere so far and the rubber seal looks to be in good condition.
I need help.
Suggestions as I'm in remote Nth Aus and Mechanics are few and far between.
Thanks in advance.

FJmonkey

Have you applied any teflon tape to the threads of of the bleeder? This prevents air from getting back in past the threads.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

Benno #03

Thanks, I will give that a try tomorrow.

the fan

I have had my best luck back bleeding/feeding hydraulic clutches in the past.

I simply pop the cap off the master and use a large syringe to force fluid into the slave and up through the system. This will force the air up through the line and in most cases I have not had to finish bleed the system in the conventional manner.

When I do a conventional bleed on the clutch or brake I use a product called a "one man bleeder" which helps keep the project neat and tidy.


FJ1100mjk

Quote from: the fan on March 12, 2015, 10:20:58 AM



I've got one of these doohickeys too. Great little tool for the brake and clutch bleeding arsenal.

Love the little magnet on it. Attaches nicely to the brake disc. At least ones on early model FJs.
Platinum Zircon-encrusted Gold Member

Iron Balls #00002175
www.ironballs.com


1down4up

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=9092.msg85973;topicseen#msg85973

This is what I use.  The syringe costs less than $3 at Tractor Supply store- I'm not sure where you'd source one of these in AU.

The reference to tying the clutch lever to the bar overnight is a much debated topic, so use the search function if you'd like to catch up on the opinions of the effectiveness of this procedure.

scotiafj

 :hi: I bled mine yesterday..the biting point was getting closer to the bars so took off the m/c cap and the fluid was dirty so connected up a bleeder hose ,I use a fish tank airpump hose nice and long an cheap to buy an its a nice tight fit on the bleed nipple,anyhoo I jus opened the bleed nipple enough to let the fluid come up out with a few pumps of the lever took 5 mins start to finish and Ive got a nice feel to the clutch now  :good: yamaha seem to have loose threads on all their bleed screws even on the brakes as you say a couple of turns of ptfe tape to get a good seal   :good:

fjfool

sorry if this is the wrong place to ask,
is there a known mod to replace all that fluid BS with a cable?

simi_ed

-- RKBA Regards,

Ed
===
Ed Thiele 
Simi Valley, CA -- I no longer have SoCal manners.
'89 FJ12C (Theft deterrent Silver/White)


- All that is necessary for the forces of evil to win in the world is for
enough good men to do nothing.

- Edmund Burke

Mark Olson

Ok ,, here we go again .  Don't think , just do it.

Start with the bleeder open and squeeze lever slowly ..Now close bleeder and slowly release lever.
Repeat process until fluid begins to come out of bleeder in a steady stream. (this will break the air lock preventing traditional bleeding from working)

Now you can bleed in the normal manner .

Squeeze lever and open bleeder to let the air out.  close bleeder and release lever.
Repeat until bubbles are gone .

Yes , use Teflon tape on the bleeder threads and use a jar with fluid in it to prevent air return.

There are plenty of other methods but with this one you will have a clutch again in the time it takes to smoke a cigarette. 
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

Pat Conlon

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

ct7088

When you squeeze and hold the lever whether the brake or clutch (with the bleeder valve open)  fluid is pushed into the line. Closing the bleeder while the lever is still being held creates a small amount of vacuum which stops all the fluid from retreating back into the master cylinder when the lever is released. Each time this process is completed the amount of fluid in the line increases and the amount of air decreases. When the caliper has been overhauled and the line is completely empty the volume of air in the system compared to the volume of fluid moved by the master cylinder limits the the fluid which is held in the line. A MityVac works but isn't necessary, if you use Teflon tape  only put it on the threads but you don't need the Teflon tape. The angled surface  of the bleeder is what seals the opening. Twenty cycles is  a good start. Keep working, don't worry about the drain hose until the first spit of fluid appears at the bleeder. When the amount of air coming out of the bleeder seems to be holding constant go drink something cold and relax for at least thirty minutes or wait till tomorrow. Start again and the fluid will clear all the bubbles of air with continued bleeding. The most valuable helper is a friend that will operate the bleeder or that you trust to keep the master cylinder from running dry and pushing more air into the line. Use the bleeder that is the highest as that is where the last pocket of air will hide. The jar with fluid helps to see when the fluid being released is free of air, close the bleeder valve every time the lever is released. The key to the operation is knowing that slow and tedious is normal.
Chris

FJ_Hooligan

The best bleeding "tool" I've found is patience.  Don't force the air down to the bleeder, let it rise up to the master cylinder.

The success attributed to the "tie the lever to the bar overnight" is more a function of "overnight" than the position of the lever.
DavidR.

Mark Olson

Quote from: ct7088 on March 12, 2015, 09:39:22 PM
When you squeeze and hold the lever whether the brake or clutch (with the bleeder valve open)  fluid is pushed into the line. Closing the bleeder while the lever is still being held creates a small amount of vacuum which stops all the fluid from retreating back into the master cylinder when the lever is released. Each time this process is completed the amount of fluid in the line increases and the amount of air decreases. When the caliper has been overhauled and the line is completely empty the volume of air in the system compared to the volume of fluid moved by the master cylinder limits the the fluid which is held in the line. A MityVac works but isn't necessary, if you use Teflon tape  only put it on the threads but you don't need the Teflon tape. The angled surface  of the bleeder is what seals the opening. Twenty cycles is  a good start. Keep working, don't worry about the drain hose until the first spit of fluid appears at the bleeder. When the amount of air coming out of the bleeder seems to be holding constant go drink something cold and relax for at least thirty minutes or wait till tomorrow. Start again and the fluid will clear all the bubbles of air with continued bleeding. The most valuable helper is a friend that will operate the bleeder or that you trust to keep the master cylinder from running dry and pushing more air into the line. Use the bleeder that is the highest as that is where the last pocket of air will hide. The jar with fluid helps to see when the fluid being released is free of air, close the bleeder valve every time the lever is released. The key to the operation is knowing that slow and tedious is normal.

Chris , nice explanation .

The reason we recommend a little tape on the bleeder threads is the angled surface of the bleeder will let air enter the hose you have attached to it and make it seem as the bubbles never go away. 
Mark O.
86 fj1200
sac ca.

                           " Get off your ass and Ride"

FJscott

One method I use to expedite the bleeding of air from the Clutch slave is to remove it (keep hyd line attached) and SLOWLY depress the piston inward with my thumb.
this does 2 things;

1-Decreases volume to be bled to minimum
2- forces any air up to the MC where it naturally wants to be

make sure MC is at a low level before you depress the piston, the level will rise. and make sure you have towels to catch any spillage, if you are not carefull you will make a mess.

worked well for me following a slave rebuild and I was having a hell of a time getting it right.

Scott