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Sudden Death...

Started by T-Bolt, May 09, 2016, 09:26:39 AM

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T-Bolt

Hello All!

My name is Denys and I live in Montreal Canada and I'm an FJ lover since 1986. Unfortunately, English is not my native language so I apology in advance for bad sentence and weird words...

I bought and 1992 FJ last fall. She had been sitting wrapped outside for 5 years, including cold winters. She is since that time my weekend restoration/mechanical project. Very low milage, clean plastic but she needs a lot of love. This is what I did this winter;

Removed all the plastic and deep cleaning, changes the tire, rebuilt the calipers, change the front brake master cylinder, new batterie, new chain & sprockets, new plugs, carbs cleaning, removed the rust from fuel tank and change the fuel filter, clean the air box and new air filter, unstuck the rear shock, grease bearings cables and check everything I could.

Last weekend, I finally stated her up and it was quite easy. As I expected, she needs carbs sync and probably valves adjustments but I let her run until warm enough so I could change the oil, filter and seal. This weekend, I when to start her up to show a friend how well I've been woking and then... NOTHING! When I turn the key, no tics tics, no lights, nothing happen except the digital clock going out. When I turn off the key, the clock is coming back. I have check the fuses, the stand switch and if I had damage a wire but I can see anything. I'm very bad with electricity, when looking at a wire diagram... My head start to turn and I don't know what to do or were to start.

If one of you guys could please give me a hint where to start, I will be very, very happy.

Thanks in advance and have a great day,

Denys


jscgdunn

Welcome Deny!

First checks:
1) Is kill switch on "run"?
2) Is bike in neutral?
3) Is battery fully charged?

Jeff
92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

T-Bolt

Thanks Jeff!

Yes to questions 1-2-3

Denys

jscgdunn

Check the battery connections are they tight?
92 FJ1200 2008 ZX14 Forks, wheels, 2008 cbr 600 RR swingarm
92 FJ1200 2009 R1 Swinger, Forks, Wheels, 2013 CBR 1000 Shock
90 FJ 1200 (Son # 2), Stock
89 FJ 1200 Built from parts: (Brother bought it) mostly 92 parts inc. motor
84 FJ 1100 (Son #1), 89 forks wheels, blue spots

4everFJ

If the clock goes out when you turn on the ignition (without pressing the starter button) and comes back on when you switch off the ignition, it indicates a short circuit somewhere.

You need to find a friend with a multi-meter and some basic electric troubleshooting knowledge.
1985 - Yamaha FJ1100 36Y
1978 - Yamaha SR500
1983 - Kawasaki GPZ550 (sold)
1977 - Kawasaki Z400 (sold)

FJmonkey

How old is the battery? Sounds like a bad battery. Even bad batteries can show good voltage but will not pass a load test. Check the voltage of the battery when you try to start it. Then report back.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

T-Bolt

Thank you all for your replys and leads.

I'll get my hands on a multi-meter this afternoon, go back trough the service manual and run some tests tonight.

Cheers!

Denys

T-Bolt

Hello again!

I have put back on the batterie and check the voltage and I read 12.88 volts. When I turn the ignition on, the clock goes out and the voltage drop to 0.03 volts. When I turn it off, the clock come back and the 12.88 volts to. After that, I removed the 4 fuses and check them with what I think is called continuity, they appears fine. I then check the fuse slots and I found out that there is no continuity on the main fuse slot. Is this a good avenue to follow?

Thanks!

red

Quote from: T-Bolt on May 09, 2016, 03:58:17 PMHello again!
I have put back on the batterie and check the voltage and I read 12.88 volts. When I turn the ignition on, the clock goes out and the voltage drop to 0.03 volts. When I turn it off, the clock come back and the 12.88 volts to. After that, I removed the 4 fuses and check them with what I think is called continuity, they appears fine. I then check the fuse slots and I found out that there is no continuity on the main fuse slot. Is this a good avenue to follow?  Thanks! 
T-bolt,

Not quite.   :biggrin:   Each fuse, removed from the bike, should show "continuity."  The pins of each fuse (removed from the bike) are shorted together with a wire that is destroyed, if overloaded.  A "blown" fuse shows no continuity.  If you can see the wire inside the fuse, a blown fuse will have a broken or vaporized wire inside.

Make sure that each fuse has the correct rating.  A 30 Amp fuse in a 5 Amp slot can cause damage to your bike's wiring.  Pull out one fuse, turn on the key (very briefly!) and repeat your voltage check.  If the voltage drops to near-nothing, turn off the key, and re-install that fuse.  Pull out the next fuse.  Check the battery voltage again, turning the key ON only briefly.  Repeat this process, for each fuse.  If removing any fuse allows the full battery voltage to remain, and not drop to near-nothing, then the trouble is along that line.  For example, if pulling the fuse for the tail-lights (and related stuff) lets the battery voltage check good with the key ON, then the problem is in that circuit.  Anything fed by that fuse may be the problem, but the rest of the bike should be okay.  Check it out, and report back.

If you have an old tail light bulb, use clip-leads to connect it to the battery and let the bulb shine for maybe 20~30 minutes.  The battery should be strong enough to handle that, without the bulb going out or dim.  Re-charge the battery, then.  If the bulb goes out or dim in just a short time, the battery is bad.  Most battery and automotive parts shops can also test the battery for free, but have it checked at two shops, because one shop may be more greedy than honest.

Cheers,
Red
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

FJ_Hooligan

If you're measuring directly off of the battery terminals and the voltage goes from 12.88 volts to 0.03 volts when you turn the key on, then you've found the problem!!!!!
DavidR.

T-Bolt

Hello!

That FJ is running now! I found out that this winter I used a charger to powerful for my batterie and I damaged it. Lesson learned. With a new batterie and adequate charger, all is good except for the ego wound ;-)

Thank you all for your cues and responses.  If your ride brings you to the Laurentides, please let me know.

Denys

FJmonkey

Thanks for the update. Battery chargers for car size batteries will over cook the smaller MC size batteries. For longer storage periods it is better to use a battery tender (not brand specific). I have one of these. Battery Tender Jr.. Since I got an AGM battery and don't need to store the bike for winter I no longer need it. But it did a nice job of keeping the old battery full between rides.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

PaulG

Quote from: T-Bolt on May 24, 2016, 09:06:15 AM
If your ride brings you to the Laurentides, please let me know.

Denys

Already have many roads mapped out in that locale.  Getting the time to do it is the usual problem.  There could be another Eastern Ontario camp'n'ride later this summer.  So keep an eye out usually in the Join Me For a Ride section.  It would be only a couple hrs east of you.

This is the thread from last year's http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=13609.0.  In the last post of the thread there is a link to the videos I made to give you an idea of what the riding is like.

Hopefully we'll see you sometime/somewhere this summer.   :good2:
1992 FJ1200 ABS
YouTube Channel Paul G