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[Alexis Wenzel]

Thanks brothers! 
This is coming to reality only with your help! I really appreciate it! XD

Today I'll go out to buy the battery. I want to use the lithium battery, to be able to hide it under the seat on a horizontal position.

Do you know a good brand/model that I can use, keeping the electric start? I saw only that Shorai isn't a good choice for cold weathers (which is my situation...hehe)

My idea is to keep the minimum wiring possible, only the lights and engine functions actually. I'm not using a "standard" control panel...

jeff, do you know if here in Alberta we're allowed to use a cel phone with a speedometer+GPS as the control panel? Or if a peace officer sees it I'll lose my bike? hehehe

[giantkiller]

I use shorai in my 700 raptor on the ice. Been out in -17 weather. Haven't had a problem.
 A gratuitous picture of my ice tires

[jscgdunn]

Thanks brothers! 
This is coming to reality only with your help! I really appreciate it! XD

Today I'll go out to buy the battery. I want to use the lithium battery, to be able to hide it under the seat on a horizontal position.

Do you know a good brand/model that I can use, keeping the electric start? I saw only that Shorai isn't a good choice for cold weathers (which is my situation...hehe)

My idea is to keep the minimum wiring possible, only the lights and engine functions actually. I'm not using a "standard" control panel...

jeff, do you know if here in Alberta we're allowed to use a cel phone with a speedometer+GPS as the control panel? Or if a peace officer sees it I'll lose my bike? hehehe

Hi Alex,
Not sure on the speedo...I would ask forgiveness and give it a try.

[giantkiller]

I used trailtech vapor I think they were called. They use a magnet. I just got a hex head bolt to replace one of the allen head bolts on the rotors. And drilled a hole in it epoxied the magnet into the hole. Works great. Vapors are cheap. And have a tach, temp gauge all kinds of stuff I never use.

[Alexis Wenzel]

Good morning friends!

I finally bought the correct top triple clamp, and now the thing doesn't fit right...my gosh...

Do you think is ok to use it like the pictures, grabing a little bit more than half of what it should on the top of the forks?









Ps: sorry for the upside down pictures...

[Pat Conlon]

Nope, not enough purchase on the fork tubes.
You will need tube extenders like Fred used here: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16432.0
You will also need a bushing between the top clamp and the steering stem nuts.

Talk to Dan (aka giantkiller)  he's the expert on these tube extensions. I recall he was talking to his machinist about making up a fresh batch: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=15304.msg169479#msg169479

Hope this helps.  Pat

[jscgdunn]

Alex you have a few parts missing form the stem.  There should be a cover and another nut as well.  Jeff

[jscgdunn]

Also the steering stem should be sticking out more.

[Pat Conlon]

Also the steering stem should be sticking out more.

Yes, I saw that, but I assumed the lower triple was not seated.

If the lower triple is fully seated, then that stem is wrong, wrong. There needs to be a lock nut on that assembly. (Along with a shield) With out that lock nut, the base nut will not stay secure as the forks move side to side.


Alexis, do you realize that the FJ steering stem needs to be pressed into the R-1 lower triple?
The R-1 stem will not work on the FJ steering neck.

Tim (axiom-r) did a R-1 front end, see post #36: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3148.30

[Alexis Wenzel]

Hey brothers, good morning!

Jeff, thanks once again for all your help!

Pat,  thanks for your comments and that's true brother, what I'm using is the R1 clamp with the FJ stem...I was talking to Jeff and he explained to me in details. What happened is that the guys who made the service on the stem did it wrong. They didn't press the stem on the correct position so now I have a short stem...hahahaha. S*#t... I'll have to redo it...

Now everything is on hold until after the rally. I'm waiting for the battery to arrive and then I can start to figure it out the harness position between the tank and the header, and the layout for everything under the seat...

More pictures to come!! 

[Alexis Wenzel]

Good evening folks!

Battery arrived!


Wrong counter-shaft sprocket bought. The correct one is on its way already



And the golden question!!! Do you think this aluminum tape will really protect the wires, or will they literally cook the plastic and everything else wraped there?

[ribbert]

......Do you think this aluminum tape will really protect the wires.....

Alexis, protection from what? radiation? spy satellites? covfefe?  

Seriously, you are addressing a problem that doesn't exist. The wires already have protection (the insulation). I don't believe I have ever ready of anyone having a problem with "exposed" wires. Also, the aluminium is conductive, the whole thing could light up like a Christmas tree with one short and any water or condensation that finds its way in there will stay there which could lead to corrosion.

There are plenty of great products for protecting against abrasion and wire bundling, no need to re invent the wheel.

These two types for example are high temp and won't rub through. These, in a couple of different diameters, and heat shrink cover all of my wiring requirements.



They are both "split/self closing"

I read the label on the product you used and it doesn't quite seem that this was its intended use.

If you're really worried about protection, these spade terminals are covered in three different diameter heat shrinks. The wiring itself needs no further protection. If you look closely you will seen they then go into the conduits shown above.



Once again, you have applied a fix to a problem that doesn't exist and may well have created a new one in the process.

Keep it simple.

Noel

[Alexis Wenzel]

Hi Noel, good morning!

I see...I should've asked before applying all that s*it eh?! hahahahahahahha

My problem is that all that wiring will be touching the headers. My idea is to keep everything between the gas tank and the headers, and I don't quite have enough space behind the carburetors.

Going with those conduits and heat shrink covers would be my best bet then eh?! Even with them rubbing on the header the whole time?

[giantkiller]

Headers? Do you mean head?/ Cam cover? If that's what you mean the heat shrink should be enough. When I pulled the turbo off the f250. I discovered that the main wire harness was routed right next to the turbo. Talk about heat! Asked the local diesel tech and he said it was correct.  

Looks good. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[ribbert]

Hi Noel, good morning!

I see...I should've asked before applying all that s*it eh?! hahahahahahahha

My problem is that all that wiring will be touching the headers. My idea is to keep everything between the gas tank and the headers, and I don't quite have enough space behind the carburetors.

Going with those conduits and heat shrink covers would be my best bet then eh?! Even with them rubbing on the header the whole time?

Alexis, I assume, as Dan observed, you mean the head, not the headers The headers being the engine exhaust pipes. A while back I rewired my bike and relocated a lot of the electrics in the tail section.
The fat bunch of wires to the right in the photo I posted runs everything to the tail. It is wedged between the head and the frame rail at the RHR of the motor so it gets both engine heat and vibration.



The covering is "high temp" although makes no actual claim about max temp. It has been like this for about 20,000km with no sign of wear or heat affect.
As you can see (previous post photo) at the top where the wires come out, it is spit on one side but resumes its tubular shape when let go, makes it easy to place over existing wiring, you don't have to feed it through. It is also very flexible. It can be folded over on itself without distorting.

As a mechanic I try and stay abreast of what's out there. I recently spent a couple of hundred dollars at the electrical store buying a handful of everything that looked vaguely interesting and related to automotive wiring.

These are my current favourites. Self soldering heat shrink joiners, heat shrink spade terminals and braid wrap.




What I don't understand is why you say there is no room behind the carbies, you have pods, that should give you a ton or room. The other place the wiring and relays can be mounted is the RH upper space under the fairing, heaps of room there. I also can't figure out just what it is you have wrapped up there ??



IMO 

Noel