Not to be a dick, but I'm gonna be a dick. At least I'm honest (don't you hate when people start with a disclaimer like that anyhow?!)
Why Q16 fuel? Why 113?
Are you really running that much compression? I realize that the silly elevation isn't doing you any favors, but I think you're shooting squirrels with an elephant gun.
If you can't run a replacement-lead fuel, such as U4.4 or MR12 due to stupid laws, and still want a reasonably high octane... Have you looked at VP's Streetblaze 100? Yes, it's a motor octane of 96 instead of 116, but if you're under 14:1 I'd feel safe to wager that you're pissing money and power down the drain. There's some more unusual VP fuels that also fit the bill, like SV-05 (98 MON and oxygenated). There's no reason to run a nitrous/turbo fuel if you're running on motor.
In my own racing, I found that with a DA of 2500-3000, going from pump 87 (also known as "partially water") to proper 100 octane fuel cost me a solid 4mph and 0.15s. With a 735lb combination, that equated to nearly 10% all on its own, or 12-13hp worth! U4.4, even with a weak oxygenation package and far too much octane gave me back half of my losses (better than 87 pump, but not as good as the DA correction would imply).
You can't swap fuel around without getting it dead on. It's arguably the cheapest power you can make, and a consistent and important part of your tuning package. Dont' skimp! It's as important as setting your squish, but easier to fix when you jack it up. Get some spare plugs and a pail of appropriate fuel, and make some tuning decisions.
You KNOW the suspension, gearing, and clutch make a difference. Getting the motor to output as much as you can, consistently, makes tuning the rest of the combination that much easier. The whole trick is removing as many variables as you can and getting things as close as possible quickly. Once you've got the fuel done, the motor gets jetted and timed appropriately, and is done. Then the focus shifts to the suspension and tire (which I must say... you're looking to me like someone racing on a tire that's had two lifetimes worth of heatcycling... Just sayin! I know it's not cheap, but as you start getting closer, it's going to become non-optional to have a tire that's sticky every single pass, and you know that as well as I do). Once you can eliminate all these things as being variable, then you can begin choosing between 0.010 and 0.015 shims in the clutch, with some security that it's a trustworthy and repeatable change. Look at it like a bracket racer, step one is consnstency. Once you've achieved that, the tuning changes don't get lost in the noise of the variabiltiy of the runs.
And you better get a move on. The shim kit is in my dining room right now, and within a week I expect to have my FJ doing breakin miles. I'm hoping for very low 10.70's on motor, and once the compression checks say I've seated the rings I'll be doing my damnedest to beat your ass into the 9's, on a stock wheelbase and displacement no less. Get to work!!!
