An update regarding my electrocution issue. I discovered that both cyl's 1&3 (the two that don't fire up) are giving me the Dr Ho treatment through the frame/bars. I rubbed the mounting points, ground wire connection, and battery ground to motor with medium emory cloth. Still getting a zap coming through. It's nothing major. Just a strong tiingling. Can't tell if #'s 2&4 have the same problem cuz the bike stalls after I pull the cap on one of them.
I decided to buy some new NGK caps (OEM prohibitively expensive at $28 each!

). Good thing for as I pulled one off it crumbled in my hand. These were from the spare set and tested OK for resistance. This still didn't cure the problem. I even switched back to the original coils and still no change. I reversed the cables between 1&4 and 2&3, and the 1&3 still would not fire (can't remember if I did this already so I did it anyhow), and I still got zapped.
So I've reached the limitations of my expertise already reagrding this. The troubleshooting guide in the GYSM is of no use at this point as I have checked everything in it.
As I contemplate my next step regarding this, I decide to try the compression test. The reason is; I am also suspicious that my fuel pick-up/ignition issue may be due to low compression in those cylinders, rather than carb related. If I can rule that as a positive then I can leave the carbs alone for a while. If my compression is ok then I may open the carbs again - if I can get the electrotherapy issue resolved first.
My brother gave me a tester he only used once. While trying to remove it from it's cheap plastic shell the guage falls on the ground and pops off the glass face and it's retaining ring. Auspicious start

. Once attached the gauge just bounces from 0 to somewheres around 60-100psi (cold engine). The needle doesn't stop at it's peak like it's supposed to, so it's impossible to read. I doublecheck it on my 1200 and I get the same behaviour - bouncing between 0 and ~80-120psi (cold engine). I think the gauge is broken so today I went to Canadian Tire and bought this
Equus 3612 Compression Tester Kit. I didn't realize it was the exact same one my brother gave me - and it performed exactly the same way

- so I took it back for a refund. Being Sunday I was limited in my options. I checked on my phone and Wal-Mart sold the same one - Princess Auto had a basic one which looked promising but upon seeing it, it was obviously too basic - too big a fitting and no adaptors (even though the package said so - and they sold no adaptors separately).
How hard can it be to find a basic compression tester in a city of nearly 3 million people -
that actually works? 
Apparently not that easy. My next source would be NAPA to see if they have this in stock
Evercraft Tools. This will be a few days from now as it's the holiday weekend and I'm back to work on Tues.
Am I progessing? I suppose so. I've learned how to better use the multimeter in diagnosis which is a plus. Is the bike running on 4 cylinders yet? No....

So if you have any theory or fact on why this bike likes to zap me (other than a Steven King short story) - feel free to enlighten me cuz I am stumped.
I just realized on typing this I could swap out the coils from my 1200 and see what happens.

The primary, secondary, and cap resistance specs are the same. If everything fires up with no consequences then great - if nothing changes then not-so-great
