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Painting question

Started by ryanschoebel, October 11, 2017, 09:20:54 PM

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ryanschoebel

Okay, so recently my petcock was leaking very bad. I ordered a rebuild off RPM, and it should be here tomorrow. But there's a catch. In order to get the petcock off, i totally removed, drained, and rinsed the tank. I figured, since i had at least 4 days until my parts came in (i ordered over a holiday weekend, oops), that i would repaint my gas tank. The PO didnt take good care of it, and it was rough to say the least. (like, think a huge chunk of missing paint in the front, and lots of little pits and discoloration). So i did just that. I sanded, filled, primed, and painted, all with great results. But once i got to the clear coat, i just can not get it to feel smooth. I used an entire 8 oz can of Dupli-color Perfect Match Protective clear coat finish, running in very light coats, with one slightly heavier coat at the end. But now, running my hand over it, it feels rough, almost grainy. Should i try wet sanding? The can doesn't say anything about it.

Does anyone have any experience with this stuff? Any ideas would be appreciated

Ryan
1985 FJ1100-- Atlas (SOLD)
1984 FJ1100-- Storm

fj1289

Let the paint cure - for at least 4 times longer than what the can says.   Then try wet sanding.   Always err to the side of too fine and too light of a touch.   Maybe even try compound at first instead of wet sanding.  Then a good polish should help a lot.  Post pics! 

Country Joe

Ryan,
Here is Dupli Colors paint description with a link to application tips for their paint.
https://duplicolor.com/product/perfect-match-premium-automotive-paint
1993 FJ 1200

1tinindian

I've been a painter since 1983, and I can tell you that clear needs to be laid on thick and wet, right from the first coat. Second, you'll never get the results you are looking for using aerosols. You can not achieve the correct Mil thickness to provide the deep luster shine and UV and abrasion durability using a spray bomb. That paint is WAY too thin, and is mostly solvent, not solids (which you need). to pass through such a small tip. Spilling gas will be very troublesome as well.
You need to use, at very least, a two-part  polyurethane Clear over the correct base coat of color to stand any chance in making your work last for any length of time.
"I want to be free to ride my machine without being hassled by the "man"!
91 FJ1200

ryanschoebel

Thanks for the advice so far! :good: Fj1289, when you say compound, do you mean like a buffing/polishing compound? like, I'm picturing turtle wax? And 1tinindian, that sounds like really good advice. How would i go about that? When you say polyurethane, I picture the stuff i use to seal stained wood, and I'm sure that cant be right. I'm willing to do as much as I can, but I am running a college students budget here haha. Country Joe, thanks for the link. I looked for something like that earlier, but couldn't find it. I will look that over right now.

As for trying the sanding, I've got 400, 1000, and 1500 grit paper. Would that work, or should I use a 2000 grit as well?
1985 FJ1100-- Atlas (SOLD)
1984 FJ1100-- Storm

1tinindian

The coatings I am referring to are completely automotive, not home repair.
They need to be applied with the proper spray gun and supporting equipment.
Auto body supply / jobber will net you the right products and advice to take it first hand.
You will also need an air compressor and a well ventilated area and PPE.
Your best bet would be to take it to a body shop and have them spray it for you.
Quality paint work that last isn't cheap, and cheap quality paint work won't last.
"I want to be free to ride my machine without being hassled by the "man"!
91 FJ1200

fj1289

Quote from: ryanschoebel on October 11, 2017, 11:14:38 PM
Thanks for the advice so far! :good: Fj1289, when you say compound, do you mean like a buffing/polishing compound? like, I'm picturing turtle wax? And 1tinindian, that sounds like really good advice. How would i go about that? When you say polyurethane, I picture the stuff i use to seal stained wood, and I'm sure that cant be right. I'm willing to do as much as I can, but I am running a college students budget here haha. Country Joe, thanks for the link. I looked for something like that earlier, but couldn't find it. I will look that over right now.

As for trying the sanding, I've got 400, 1000, and 1500 grit paper. Would that work, or should I use a 2000 grit as well?

Yes - like a rubbing compound/swirl remover.  Followed by a polishing compound.  If you go the wet sanding route DO NOT use 400!  Try the 1000 and follow with 1500.  Then a polish or cleaner wax type product  

Old Rider

Now a days you can get professional results painting yourself because you can now use 2komponent clearcoat wiich has harderner.There are different brands but i have
used Spraymax 2k it has a knob underside the spaycan that you press in to realese the hardener .It is a thick  supershiny durable paint and you use it on top of the basecoat.
The can only last 48 hours after you have activated the hardener.I have painted my hole bike with it this summer.Clear cote can somtimes be difficult to get to flow out and
you get orangepeel or ruff surface.If you do it is usally no problem to get it smoth.You wetsand with first 1500grit then 2000 grit then 2500 or 3000grit vetpaper you must use a sandingblock not only by holding paper with fingers.Then you use some cutting compound (i like meguiars 205 and 105) on a buffing machine you should get exelent results.
Here are some pics of my bike after i repainted it this summer

FJ1100mjk

Quote from: Old Rider on October 13, 2017, 09:25:56 AM
Now a days you can get professional results painting yourself because you can now use 2komponent clearcoat wiich has harderner.There are different brands but i have
used Spraymax 2k it has a knob underside the spaycan that you press in to realese the hardener .It is a thick  supershiny durable paint and you use it on top of the basecoat.
The can only last 48 hours after you have activated the hardener.I have painted my hole bike with it this summer.Clear cote can somtimes be difficult to get to flow out and
you get orangepeel or ruff surface.If you do it is usally no problem to get it smoth.You wetsand with first 1500grit then 2000 grit then 2500 or 3000grit vetpaper you must use a sandingblock not only by holding paper with fingers.Then you use some cutting compound (i like meguiars 205 and 105) on a buffing machine you should get exelent results.

Looks great!  :good:

Excellent results from the SprayMax 2K. I've read and seen other top-notch results from this company's products on other motorcycle forums. It's for real, just the follow directions, and tips and advice from other users.
Platinum Zircon-encrusted Gold Member

Iron Balls #00002175
www.ironballs.com


ryanschoebel

Quote from: Old Rider on October 13, 2017, 09:25:56 AM
Now a days you can get professional results painting yourself because you can now use 2komponent clearcoat wiich has harderner.There are different brands but i have
used Spraymax 2k it has a knob underside the spaycan that you press in to realese the hardener .It is a thick  supershiny durable paint and you use it on top of the basecoat.
The can only last 48 hours after you have activated the hardener.I have painted my hole bike with it this summer.Clear cote can somtimes be difficult to get to flow out and
you get orangepeel or ruff surface.If you do it is usally no problem to get it smoth.You wetsand with first 1500grit then 2000 grit then 2500 or 3000grit vetpaper you must use a sandingblock not only by holding paper with fingers.Then you use some cutting compound (i like meguiars 205 and 105) on a buffing machine you should get exelent results.
Here are some pics of my bike after i repainted it this summer

That looks absolutely amazing! I will definitely look into that next time i need to repaint something. I haven't gotten around to sanding/buffingg yet, as work has been very busy, nut i will update as soon as i do!
1985 FJ1100-- Atlas (SOLD)
1984 FJ1100-- Storm

Old Rider

I forgot to put out a warning that spraymax 2k clearcote is extremely dangeruos to work with i mean to get into your lungs or eyes. you have to use a high protective respiratormask
that is classified to stop organic fumes and make sure it dosent leak anywhere.If you get this stuff into your lungs you get big problems also wear good protective glasses and gloves. I have used this stuff outdoors with mask and protective gear also helps to have a little windbreease from behind .This is much much more dangerous tha ordinari aerosol spray cans.
About your project i dont know how many layers of that duplicolor clearcote u used but that paint is much thinner so you might need more layers before you can wetsand and buff it. You could also try on someting else to use spraymax 2k over the duplicolor clear to se if it reacts with duplicolor. if not you can spray with spraymax 2k over the dupli and if you get orangepeel you can wetsand. usally the spraymax flows out to a mirror finish.
My experiense is that when i use 2k spraymax if i get orangepeel i sand down and then respray then it usally flows out supersmooth.