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Steering bearing and races getting replaced.

Started by Mike m, May 21, 2018, 06:24:26 PM

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PaulG

Quote from: CutterBill on May 22, 2018, 08:03:06 AM
I've seen some FJ's that, due to production tolerances, had absolutely no lip showing at all. Not possible to use a punch.

I guess my 92 is the opposite.  I got a long SS rod and had the maintenance guy at work heat it up with an acetylene torch, then I mushroomed the end.

There was just enough exposed that I was able to tap out both top and bottom races.  Think I did it in '08 so that's what I think I did... :scratch_one-s_head:

FWIW
1992 FJ1200 ABS
YouTube Channel Paul G


Mike m

I serviced my steering bearings a year ago.Thier was considerable scoring.I could really use help on setting the bearings for the final strreing setting.

Mike m

I'm gonna make the tool with my plasma cutter.I setthe front end last year like this.front end off the ground and nudged the tire left hoping to see it fall to stop as it did the other direction

Mike m

Try this again.I'm gonna make the tool to adjust the steering bearings with my plasma cutter.if the front tire falls to the left and right with minimal force and theirs no forward and backward play it'll be ok.check again at next oil change.

aviationfred

Have you verified the torque on the steering stem spanner nut? The Haynes maintenance manual specifies 80ft lbs. There are specific tools designed that allows the use of a standard torque wrench

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16863.0

Fres
I'm not the fastest FJ rider, I am 'half-fast', the fastest slow guy....

Current
2008 VFR800 RC46 Vtec
1996 VFR750 RC36/2
1990 FJ1300 (1297cc) Casper
1990 VFR750 RC36/1 Minnie
1989 FJ1200 Lazarus, the Streetfighter Project
1985 VF500F RC31 Interceptor

ribbert

Quote from: aviationfred on May 22, 2018, 11:21:16 PM
Have you verified the torque on the steering stem spanner nut? The Haynes maintenance manual specifies 80ft lbs. There are specific tools designed that allows the use of a standard torque wrench

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16863.0

Fres

Whooooaaa!! 80ft/lbs on a tapered bearing??  The load should be next to nothing. That's why it has a lock nut and a locking tab.

This really is a job better done by feel than with a tension wrench, especially with the difficulty presented by the FJ head stem and punting on a torque value.

If you are the sort to tighten every nut and bolt on the bike with a tension wrench, fine, but this is one job better done without it.

IMO

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

oldktmdude

   I think at 80 ftlbs the steering may be a wee bit hard to turn! Tighten up to until firm and then back off until the handle bars will turn to full lock with only a small touch and they fall slowly by them selves. Check that there is no back and forth movement at the bottom of the forks and you are good to go. Ride  and re-check for fork movement again.
   Regards, Pete.
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

Motofun

Remember to recheck after several rides.  The bearings may actually seat themselves a little after some moderate use.  Used to be a big issue with ball bearings, perhaps not so much with roller bearings.
'69 Honda Trail 90
'75 Honda CB400F
'85 Yamaha RZ350
'85 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'09 Yamaha 125 Zuma
'09 Kawasaki KZ110 (grand kids)
'13 Suzuki GSXR 750 (track)
'14 Yamaha FZ-09
'18 Suzuki GSXR 1000R (track)
'23 Yamaha Tenere 7
SOLD: CBX,RZ500,Ninja 650,CB400F,V45 Sabre,CB700SC,R1

Mike m

Also is Thier any truth to allowing the weight of the bike to settle then tighten the lower triple bolts and front axle nut.