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Strange noise engine or transmission

Started by Old Rider, May 30, 2018, 02:09:17 PM

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Old Rider

Hello fj warriors here is a late uppdate on my camchain ziptie replacement method.
My bike has been stranded 3weeks in the garage because the yamaha dealer messed up when ordering the camchain tensioner so after 2weeks waiting they had to order it a second time.
yesterday it finally arrived and i could start to do some wrenching. I recieved the 4K cct partnumber but also recieved the long capbolt.Tok a pick comparing the old cct spring with the new one.
After getting everything toghether and filled carbs with fuel thru a syringe it was time to se if she fired up.Started at second attempt and the got some nasty backfiring so shut her off.
I was thinking oh nooo... but then i realize that the vacum hose was disconnected and hoping that was the reason and not some timing issue.Then i mounted the gastank and vacumhose and fired again and thank god the misfire was gone.Tok a ride aferwords and so far everything seems fine and no strange noise from engine anymore.I have some concern though and that is 1 when i installed the cct
and used a 22mm wrench on the inntake cam rotating a little backwards i could not hear any cliks from tensioner and the chain feels a little lose.I i rotate engine at crank the cain can be moved about 10 millimeters up and down but if i use big force the chain gets quite sloppy between sprocets.i guess its normal.I have tried to rotate the inntake backwards but tenioner does not click out so i guess it has the right tension.
2 the D.I.D camchain seems a little less robust than the genuine chain i measured all parts and its the same meausrement exept the hight of the chain wich is 1 millimeter smaller the pins also is 0.010 mm smaller in diameter.
Summary is that the Timing chain can be replaced this way without remwoving the camshafts but it takes time probably faster to remove cams.

Old Rider

added some pics but dont think they sow up

oldktmdude

   I don't understand why you just didn't remove the cams. Nothing hard or complicated about it and would also be much quicker than the way you did it.
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

RPM - Robert

DO NOT turn the camshafts at the hex towards the center of the motor. This will slack the chain and can cause it to jump a tooth. (we see this with the race car guys more than anything, as the timing plate/ rotor assembly is more difficult to access) If you are using the 22mm hex on the camshaft you always turn towards the back of the bike on the intake side to rotate and towards the front of the bike on the exhaust side (difficult to do in the bike with the frame in the way) to rotate the opposite direction.

If you put the cam chain tensioner in fully compressed, with the ratchet mechanism facing downwards, and bolted it up with the two allen head bolts; then installed the springs and center bolt. The adjuster self adjusted to the proper tension. Leave it alone and ride it.

Old Rider

Quote from: oldktmdude on June 28, 2018, 07:05:09 AM
   I don't understand why you just didn't remove the cams. Nothing hard or complicated about it and would also be much quicker than the way you did it.

you probably right but iwas thinking it was a fast and easy way without removing the cams .In reality it was a bit slower than i tought .If i had done it with  less tension on the chain ( the chain was very tight)  i think i could do it  faster .Mayby same time as remowing and replacing the cams.
Also litte worried that i might snap a capbolt or strip threads in the old aluminium if i removed the cams.

Old Rider

Quote from: RPM - Robert on June 28, 2018, 10:35:27 AM
DO NOT turn the camshafts at the hex towards the center of the motor. This will slack the chain and can cause it to jump a tooth. (we see this with the race car guys more than anything, as the timing plate/ rotor assembly is more difficult to access) If you are using the 22mm hex on the camshaft you always turn towards the back of the bike on the intake side to rotate and towards the front of the bike on the exhaust side (difficult to do in the bike with the frame in the way) to rotate the opposite direction.

If you put the cam chain tensioner in fully compressed, with the ratchet mechanism facing downwards, and bolted it up with the two allen head bolts; then installed the springs and center bolt. The adjuster self adjusted to the proper tension. Leave it alone and ride it.

i DID NOT have a relationship with that woman... :yes: just kidding  i did not rotate the inntake cam towards the front of bike i only used the wrench at same time as the wrench on the crankcase when rotating.I did try to rotate it bacwards a little bit after all was installed to try to get the tensioner click out .I did what you sayd when it comes to the tensioner install.Also thanks for telling me about the 4k parnumber so i got the long capbolt to . :good:

Old Rider

One more thing i probably could have done this superfast by just split the old chain tied it to the new get it off crank sprocet running the new chain thru then engaging it to the crank sprocket again with a long stick and then lay it on to the camsprockets and rivet it with the masterlink.
it had to be done with the tensioner out it seems there is enough space around the sprockets to do that.

Old Rider

So the sound is back!!!! :dash2:  :flag_of_truce: after doing alot of riding i got the noise back.I tought i had fixed it because the noise only show up after about 40 minutes og riding .The days after i had replaced the camchain and tensioner i did not ride long enough time to the bad noise to show up. Today i did some testing on a deserted place .I accelerated hard and it runs fast and easy up to top speed but it is very bad noises coming from engine and very heavy vibrations. After my testruns the noises is even worse. I was thinking of doing a ovehaul this vinter but now i got a low milage engine from a 3cw that i can buy. Just trying to find out if it bolts right in the frame? wasent there a different rubber enginemount on the 3cw compared to the 1TX ?

arendal

I also has some ratling from left side of the engine. But it almost disapear with clutch pulled. First i thord it could be the clutch, but then i noticed it came from the other side. Could it just be the starter chain?

FJ_Hooligan

Did '86 have the dual wall header pipes?
DavidR.

RPM - Robert

Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on August 06, 2018, 11:54:06 AM
Did '86 have the dual wall header pipes?

I do not believe so. Both the 86's we have here had single wall. I believe that was an 1100 thing.

Pat Conlon

Quote from: RPM - Robert on August 06, 2018, 12:15:00 PM
Quote from: FJ_Hooligan on August 06, 2018, 11:54:06 AM
Did '86 have the dual wall header pipes?

I do not believe so. Both the 86's we have here had single wall. I believe that was an 1100 thing.

Correct^^
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3