FZR1000 WHEEL SWAP EXPERT NEEDED

[93fj1200]

CAN ANYONE READ THE NUMBERS ON THIS PAGE OR HAVE A LEGIBLE COPY?

I bought an FJ1200 that had the FZR1000 wheels front and back already installed. The previous owner told me that he had a problem getting the rear caliper to line up with the rotor. While working on that, I tightened up the wheel nut to spec and the wheel wouldn't turn at all. I thought maybe he forgot the spacer. Took the wheel off and it seems that he didn't really know what he was doing. The bearing was chewed to ratshit and it looks like he may have the wrong spacer.

I have ordered a kit from FJowners club but it will be awhile until I get it and I want to ride the bike before it snows here in Canada.

Here is an article I found that shows exactly what the measurements are except for the fact that I cannot read the numbers. They are very unclear. No idea where the article came from. I would like to know if anyone would actually have a hard copy of this article and could tell me what the numbers actually are. Hopefully, one of us hardcore FJers can help. When I do get it done finally, I will put all relevant information for all to see. Thanks.

[big r]

I believe that it says 132 mm. Someone may have something to say about this. Big R

[red]

CAN ANYONE READ THE NUMBERS ON THIS PAGE OR HAVE A LEGIBLE COPY?  I have ordered a kit from FJowners club but it will be awhile until I get it and I want to ride the bike before it snows here in Canada.
Here is an article I found that shows exactly what the measurements are except for the fact that I cannot read the numbers. They are very unclear. No idea where the article came from. I would like to know if anyone would actually have a hard copy of this article and could tell me what the numbers actually are. Hopefully, one of us hardcore FJers can help. When I do get it done finally, I will put all relevant information for all to see. Thanks.

93fj1200,

Here is a source web page.

http://www.fjmods.co.uk/Wheels.htm

One part ("FZR1000 GENESIS rear wheel conversion") has the writer's email link.  He should have readable drawings for you.  Between the pix, drawing and the text, I believe that you can work out the correct dimensions.  Looks to me like the standard parts are being cut down to length, not made from scratch.  HTH.
.

[93fj1200]

I have bought the kit and will put the correct numbers when I can.  The swap is doable with either the FZR or FJ parts. The FZR is 17mm axle parts while the FJ is 20mm.  My FZR wheel I have came with swing arm bushings to bring the FJ swingarm from 20mm to 17mm.  I cannot find these on the Yamaha website.  Not sure if they are a stock piece or hand-made.  I will take a measurement later.  Off to finish the job.

[93fj1200]

Kind of disappointed with the kit.  I followed the directions to a letter and I still had to add a few shims (2.85 mm) to the inside of the brakestay to make the caliper line up properly with the disc.  I still have a problem that I cannot tighten up the axle nut to spec ... actually not even close.  Either a Clymer or Haynes said 100 ft. lbs.  I am sure it will work fine but without an x-ray, it is difficult to see inside the wheel to see where it is not touching.  According to the sketch dimensions, everything is as it should be but still can't go past 40-50 ft. lbs of torque on the axle without binding.  I think it must be on the cushdrive.  Maybe the spacers are not touching.  The wheel centre spacers and the two 6204 bearing seem correct ... like any other wheel I have mounted without problems.  If anyone has this on their bike, I would be interested to see how much the cushdrive is seated inside the wheel.

[CutterBill]

I still have a problem that I cannot tighten up the axle nut to spec ... actually not even close... everything is as it should be but still can't go past 40-50 ft. lbs of torque on the axle without binding. 

Hard to say without seeing the bike, but I'm guessing that the spacer that fits between the wheel bearings is too short. When you tighten the axle nut, you are putting a tremendous side load on the bearings and they bind up. Solution: Forget about any diagrams or info you found on the internet; you need to measure YOUR wheel. Remove the wheel bearings and spacer. Accurately measure (in the wheel hub) the distance between the bearing lands... the "steps" where the bearings sit. (If you don't have the proper equipment, you may need a machinist to measure this for you.)  The spacer should be either EXACTLY the same distance* or about 0.5 mm longer. It absolutely cannot be shorter or you will be putting a side-load on the bearings. (ball bearings must not have ANY side-load)**  If needed, machine a new spacer... easy to do.

*within .01 mm (0.0005 inch)
**Ignoring deep-groove or angular-contact bearings.

Bill

[Millietant]

Are you also sure that you've actually got the rear wheel that you think you have ?

The FJOC have done a lot of that conversion & sold quite a few kits without any problems, so it'd be a bit of a surprise that they got it wrong (but not impossible) - the picture of the page you posted is definitely out of one of the FJOC quarterly little magazines.

As Bill has said, yi think you'd be best to check the measurements of all the parts and just make sure there isn't something a little awry before you machine anything or getting anything specifically made.

[flips]

I still have a problem that I cannot tighten up the axle nut to spec ... actually not even close... everything is as it should be but still can't go past 40-50 ft. lbs of torque on the axle without binding. 

Hard to say without seeing the bike, but I'm guessing that the spacer that fits between the wheel bearings is too short. When you tighten the axle nut, you are putting a tremendous side load on the bearings and they bind up. Solution: Forget about any diagrams or info you found on the internet; you need to measure YOUR wheel. Remove the wheel bearings and spacer. Accurately measure (in the wheel hub) the distance between the bearing lands... the "steps" where the bearings sit. (If you don't have the proper equipment, you may need a machinist to measure this for you.)  The spacer should be either EXACTLY the same distance* or about 0.5 mm longer. It absolutely cannot be shorter or you will be putting a side-load on the bearings. (ball bearings must not have ANY side-load)**  If needed, machine a new spacer... easy to do.
*within .01 mm (0.0005 inch)
**Ignoring deep-groove or angular-contact bearings.

Bill

I think Bill has nailed it.I did this conversion back in 2012 on my 86,so my memory is hazy...but used the same instructions you have,sourced the bearings and did the machining/spacer fabrication with the help of my Dad.I do remember having the same issue with the additional spacer inside the brake stay..but everything else worked out ok

[Sparky84]

Nice bike Flips.
Whereabouts in Sydney are you? Nth, Sth, East, West?
I'm in the South

[Alf]

The wheel bearings (2) size are 20x47x14,  6204RS code
The seal measures are 20x40x7.
The inner tube measures are right, 132x20

The only measures that I´m checking are the brake spacer. I think there are 2 measures, depending on the bike, first FJ series and 3CV on

I´m now working in this conversion for a friend