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Splitting the cases

Started by Old Rider, September 18, 2018, 06:53:31 AM

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fj1289

Quote from: racerrad8 on September 22, 2018, 02:56:06 PM
Quote from: fj1289 on September 22, 2018, 12:19:42 PM
Quote from: racerrad8 on September 21, 2018, 07:32:55 PM
Quote from: Old Rider on September 21, 2018, 01:49:35 PM
Now im scratching my head trying to find out if i can just leave the cylinders on and pull the crankshaft with the pistons on and if it is possible to get the crankshaft back in with the piston on ?. Tok some pics i tested resize them
No can do...

The pistons will not come through the case.

Randy - RPM

You could take the rods off the crank and push them out the top of the cylinder like on a typical v-8 engine.  But then you are still stuck with coaxing the cylinder block off - but the whole assembly will be much lighter. 

Chris,

Still no can do...

The rod nuts are on top of the rod so you have to have the cylinder off to get the rod nuts off.

Randy - RPM

:Facepalm:

Forgot about that little detail!

Old Rider

Here is an uppdate not so much time to wrench on the engine but i managed to get the cylinders and pistons off havent had time to check them.I also have splitted the cases
i found that the starterchain damper seems to be worn out also when spinning the transmission it runs very easy mayby to easy? it is also a little grumling sound on the output chaft when turning it i have not had time to take it out yet.There is also clacking sound from transmission when i turn it back and forth.It Sems there has happened something to the lower case in the past as it is welded or something.also some helicoils mounted .I will try to check more tomorrow.

racerrad8

Here is post showing the timing & starter chain wear compared to new: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16008.msg163337#msg163337

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

Old Rider

Quote from: racerrad8 on September 24, 2018, 02:29:38 PM
Here is post showing the timing & starter chain wear compared to new: http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=16008.msg163337#msg163337

Randy - RPM

Im definit in for a startercahain and damper replacement also think a have to replace camchainsliders.Tomorrow i will check some more on the transmission .The starterclutch
also was very lose and noisy when i moved it with fingers.

Old Rider

Today i done a little more I have compared the transmission i bought from ebay with the one i have in the bike.Cant really see any difference both seems loose or worn but I'm not a specialist so hard to say.Both are loose with the gears feeling wobbly the geardogs look okay i think.The bearings runs fine but may by worn as they rotate wery easy?
There is a little sideplay in the bearings one has more play than others.The shiftforks seems fine with minimal wear on the contacsurfaces,But on the innside they look bad with scratches .I found that when rotating the transmission the innside of shiftforks make scraping sounds against the innside grove on gears.I have never had problems with the gearbox ,but think i will replace the shiftforks and bearings.Shiftdrum looks good cant see any wear on the sides in the groves and the bearing seems fine.
I had to rush away from wrencing today as i saw a Kawasaki gpz1000rx cheep for sale .I looked very nice but when i took it for a little ride i almost lost it in a u turn because the front wheel was sticking bad.That is a quick fix ,but then there was a bad noise from engine. when rotating the rear wheel on stand there was a bad clacking sound from frontsprocket.I dont want to do another engine teardown right now so i sayd to seller have to think about it until tomorrow.I have always liked the gpz1000rx in black.

balky1

I think RXs had some crankshaft problem right out of the factory. Many failed as I heard. Is it just a rumor, who knows.


FJ 1100, 1985, sold
FJR 1300, 2009

Old Rider

Quote from: balky1 on September 26, 2018, 01:52:01 AM
I think RXs had some crankshaft problem right out of the factory. Many failed as I heard. Is it just a rumor, who knows.
That is god to know balky1 the bike is still for sale what i found out is its a fast bike on starights but dosent like to turn and brake :sarcastic: but i still thinking of bying it i wish i had a big garage.
Nothing new on the engine had not had time i bought a torch and a screw extractor today because the screws holding the timigplate broke off when trying to get them out .Someone has used blue thred lock on them thanks!

Old Rider

Not much done today only retracting 2 screws holding the pickup coil base that po had used threadlock on. They broke off when i tryed to unsrew them first time.
Also checked the startrerclutch and could not find anything wrong exept the rubberdampers is hard as stone so i will replace them and mayby the springs.
Did  measure the one of the pistons diameter and it measured 76.95 millimeter 3millimeter up on the skirt.I  dont know what correct size should be because i only got the fj1100 manual.

Urban_Legend

Mmmm Love starter clutches. They are the reason I know how to split the cases so well. 1st time  -I got a new (to me) 1200 motor but the starter clutch would not engage, split the case new clutch bits inserted, re assemble. same issue
2nd time...we must have stuffed up something. Split the case, check everything very carefully. All good. Reassemble. still won't engase
3rd time. Split old motor, remove its starter clutch. Split new new motor again, insert old starter clutch (untouched as I knew it worked fine) reassemble again (learned how to bench test). and bingo. we have sweet music.

Was a long week.

Mark
Mark
My Baby (Sparkles)
84 FJ1100/1200 motor
92 FJ 1200 - Project bike. Finished and sold.
84 FJ1100 - Project bike.

Troyskie

Mate, My Haynes manual is stating the measure for the bore is taken 40mm from the top of the cylinder both parallel and perpendicular to the crankshaft. Bore measurement for 1200 comes out at 77mm factory standard, as measured above.
1984 FJ1100 Ms Effie brand new :)
1984 FJ1100 Pearlie, stock as.
1985 FJ1100 Mr Effie 647,000K and still running hard.
1985 FJ1200 'Yummy' takes a licking & keeps on ticking
After all is said and done, more is said than done :)
2013 Trumpy Tiger 800, let's do a lap of Oz

Old Rider

Quote from: Urban_Legend on September 27, 2018, 10:32:31 PM
Mmmm Love starter clutches. They are the reason I know how to split the cases so well. 1st time  -I got a new (to me) 1200 motor but the starter clutch would not engage, split the case new clutch bits inserted, re assemble. same issue
2nd time...we must have stuffed up something. Split the case, check everything very carefully. All good. Reassemble. still won't engase
3rd time. Split old motor, remove its starter clutch. Split new new motor again, insert old starter clutch (untouched as I knew it worked fine) reassemble again (learned how to bench test). and bingo. we have sweet music.

Was a long week.

Mark

That sound like fun im hoping my starterclutch work on reasemble. :shok:

Old Rider

Quote from: Troyskie on September 28, 2018, 04:01:20 AM
Mate, My Haynes manual is stating the measure for the bore is taken 40mm from the top of the cylinder both parallel and perpendicular to the crankshaft. Bore measurement for 1200 comes out at 77mm factory standard, as measured above.


Okay i have to order that manual and also a new tool to measure the bore..

Old Rider

Today i have prepped pistons with mr muscle to remove carbon.The innside of cylinderhead i filled with wd-40 to see
if it leaks the wd was in there for about 3 hours and did not see any leaking.the wd40 will also make it easier to
remove carbon deposits .I will let it work for a day or more.I did a quick measure on one piston then i discovered
that one of the feelergauge set i have was a totally different size when using my digital calipper to check the
feeler gauge.I says mm but something is wrong.The other gauge i have is correct with the digital calipergauge i
have.The rings was in spec but not when measured in the cylinder.How much has that to say? The compression readings
i did before teardown was good and the bike dosent smoke or burn oil.I guess i replace springs anyway,but they arent
cheep.

Old Rider

Here is a little update .I was much job to clean out the carbon deposits took several rounds with carb cleaner gasket remover and mr muscle an note about mr muscle DONT leave it to long in the bag because when i removed the pistons they where very dark in color the alu had reacted with mr muscle.Same was for the sylinderhead.I have started to remowe the valves
today .A quick measurement of some of the springs showed they was in spec and well innside the vorn out margins.Same for the valves.I will measure all springs and valves thoroughly tomorrow. The valveseats had som minor pitting and i will lap them later.The pistons also in spec and the piston to cylinder clearance is about 0.04 and 0.05 mm so i only need to replace pistonsprings and hone the cylinders.The pistonrings was almost in spec exept for the toprings that was way out of margins.Also i diskovered a blue ring on the crank where the starterchain goes.I really enjoying this wrenching best recreation ever .Sometimes i swear and shout but i love it anyway  :sarcastic:I have been in contact with Randy and Robert at RPM and sorting out all parts i need to order.
Her are some pics i tryed to resize them to load quicker.

Old Rider

New update
Now i have measured all valves and valvesprings.The valves is in spec exept for the measurement at the top end of stem the manual say the top have to be 4mm long my measure is about 3.90 i dont know if i measure it wrong also the end of it looks very nice and flat so im not sure .No valves are bendt.I had problems measure the face width and seat width  on the exhaust valves and dont know if i did it right.
I was surprised it seems the springs has very little vear all innersprings measured from 39.17 to 39.40mm new they are 39.65mm  and the vear limit is 37.65mm
The outersprings also god measured from 40.89mm to 41.12mm new they are 41.10mm and wear limit is 39.00mm
All springs also passed the tilt limit test.One thing i havent measured it the springforce so dont know if they have Got softer...
I dont have a proper measuretool for the cylinders but have measured them by using a method  where you first put the pistonring on top of cylinder on the cleaned unworn section and measure the endgap then place the same pistonring down on the worn part of cylinder and take new measurement.Then subtract the first measuremet from second and multiply it by 7 and divide by 22 .It supposed to be a exact measurement but I think i will take the cylinders to a shop so it can be measured for roundness anyway.