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[Fjotten85]

Became member when I bought the FJ back in 1999.
My Version is rare in Norway (blue, white, with red stripe). Have many miles on its back.
 
After getting married and having a son, buying and refurbishing house and working on my carrier, I delivered the plates in 2004.
The FJ was "forgotten". So was this forum.

But the idea was to "pick it up" later, so it was never sold.
I started my FJ-beauty last time above 12 years ago!

This year my son is turning 15. I bought him a light MC (XL125 Verado). Under training I need a ride behind him. Hence I've startet the necessary refurbish.
The FJ's for sale here is still cheap and I can have a much better specimen for a few hundred to one thousand US$.
So I want spend a lot until I know it can run! It has been kept dry indoor all time.

I have
- Changed the oil pane (due to oil leackage, got a used part) and all gaskets incl. strainer. Tourque settings followed carefully.
- No debrief in strainer
- Oil drained totally, with New oil and oil filter and gaskets
- New plugs, and engine turing tested
- New air filter with total cleanup of filter housing.
- Drained tank for fuel
Remain prior to engine start test
- Change fuel hoses from tank (became to short)
- Fix petcock (wiring + New gasket/o-ring)

I will then try to start. If it starts or ignites, but not smooth I will try to deliver it to specialist for ignition tuning.
Thereafter I will get the plates back and service tires, brakes (also lines) and suspension. Electrics seems 100%.
Also noticed som surface rust to treat.

The original Paint is weared. Perhaps I will refresh it to maintain original looks, but also need to Paint engine.
The machine looks "tired" now, hopefully it will see better days, now that I have needed inspiration.
Really Grateful if anyone here wants to advice me.

[Tuned forks]

This is just a guess and wiser heads may correct me but if the engine runs rough it will likely be the carburetors and not the ignition.

Joe

[red]

Became member when I bought the FJ back in 1999.
My Version is rare in Norway (blue, white, with red stripe). Have many miles on its back.
I will then try to start. If it starts or ignites, but not smooth I will try to deliver it to specialist for ignition tuning.
Thereafter I will get the plates back and service tires, brakes (also lines) and suspension. Electrics seems 100%.
Also noticed som surface rust to treat.

Fjotten85,

If the engine does not run smoothly, almost certainly it will be the carburetors, not ignition problems.  Drain the gas tank, first, before you try to start the engine.  Add a good carburetor cleaner (chemical) to the gas tank, and fill the tank with all fresh fuel.  Try to start the engine briefly, but do not worry if it does not start now.  The carburetor cleaner may need a day or three to work its' magic for you.  If the engine starts, and does not run smoothly, give the cleaner another day to work.  Only if this process fails to get the engine running well, then have the carburetors cleaned, or rebuilt.  RPM has the parts; click the banner near the top of this page.

Engine vacuum opens the fuel petcock.  Without a vacuum in the petcock vacuum hose, the petcock should be closed, and it should not drip any gasoline.  You can test the vacuum petcock operation with any good vacuum source on the vacuum hose; even mouth-vacuum is enough if you can handle that.  Once the petcock opens, it should stay open until you relax the vacuum in the vacuum hose.  With no vacuum in the vacuum hose, the petcock should close itself completely, with no fuel flow.  If all that much is good, there is an L-shaped fitting which flows fuel from the petcock to the engine.  This fitting should be safety-wired in place, because the O-ring/sealant that holds the fitting in place may fail someday.  Three pictures:
http://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=M%2FC%3A36Y-24500-01
You do not need to use coat-hanger wire for this mod, but again:
http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=3265.msg27126#msg27126

If the carburetors drip any gasoline when the engine is OFF, then the petcock does not shut off as it should, and the carburetors need help also.  These problems can cause a serious fire, and if not, gasoline can dilute the engine oil, causing bearing failures.  Do not ignore a bad petcock, or leaking carburetors.

[Millietant]

If it's been stood that long, the carbs will definitely need a good cleaning to remove stale fuel "goop" from the jets and passageways.

For engine paint, Randy recommended PJ1 Gloss Black High Temp spray paint, but my local places didn't have it in stock, so on another recommendation I tried Simoniz Gloss Black High Temp Engine Lacquer - and it has worked superbly !.

[PaulG]

The FJ was "forgotten". So was this forum.

   

It's nice to be remembered     Welcome back prodigal son!    Post some pics of your progress in the Project section. 

[ribbert]

..... Drain the gas tank, first, before you try to start the engine.  Add a good carburetor cleaner (chemical) to the gas tank, and fill the tank with all fresh fuel.  Try to start the engine briefly, but do not worry if it does not start now.  The carburetor cleaner may need a day or three to work its' magic for you.

Red, wouldn't the fuel lines and bowls still be filled with the old fuel if all you did was drain and refill the tank?

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

..... Drain the gas tank, first, before you try to start the engine.  Add a good carburetor cleaner (chemical) to the gas tank, and fill the tank with all fresh fuel.  Try to start the engine briefly, but do not worry if it does not start now.  The carburetor cleaner may need a day or three to work its' magic for you.

Red, wouldn't the fuel lines and bowls still be filled with the old fuel if all you did was drain and refill the tank?

Noel

After that length of time it's doubtful there is anything liquid left in the bowls. Hardened jelly maybe.

Red....FFS

At the very least, take the bowls off and clean them out. We know the choke fuel pick up tube is clogged.
**At the very least**
Next, when the bike starts and runs like shit, it's flooding because the o rings on the float needle seats are dried out and leaking.....
This is just a start of things that are going to happen until you "properly" clean the carbs.
At this stage, carb cleaner in the gas bullshit  ain't gonna work

[Fjotten85]

Red, ribbert, Pat, PaulG, Millietant & Tuned forks: Thanks for all tip. I will clean up carburetors when I am at it, prior to start. I Guess I'll find most info I need in workshop manual and in old post herein. Perhaps a carb cleaner should be added anyway thereafter?

Paint job looks great; just what I'm looking for. I dont think she ever will become an exhibition beauty, but at least a robust and trusted friend for years.
 
I'll try to post images and comments on progress. So far the only problems have been screws that is stuck: but I have managed to get them out by hammer+twist-tools, and then replace screws. My worries of finding parts was stupid; The FJ is an easy and inexpencive lady.
Even if Ivery clumsy and inexperienced working with machines, the job doesnt scare me as much as I thought it would.
  `Jens 

[red]

Red, ribbert, Pat, PaulG, Millietant & Tuned forks: Thanks for all tip. I will clean up carburetors when I am at it, prior to start. I Guess I'll find most info I need in workshop manual and in old post herein. Perhaps a carb cleaner should be added anyway thereafter?
 So far the only problems have been screws that is stuck: but I have managed to get them out by hammer+twist-tools, and then replace screws.
  `Jens

`Jens,

Carb cleaner is probably a good idea, because there may be gummy residue hiding where it can cause problems later.  Sometimes the carb cleaner takes a few days to work, though.

The stock Yamaha screws may look like Phillips heads, but they are really Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screws.  To avoid stripping out those screw heads, you can buy these JIS tools as Apex-type screwdriver bits, to fit your "impact screwdriver."  These tool bits come from Canada, with a fair price, but you should find them in Europe, too.  You can see, they are not exactly Phillips in design.  The physical differences are more important on the smaller-sized screws.

https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/jis_cross_head_screwdriver_tips/4102/283408

As an alternate, RPM has FJ screw collections with Allen heads, if you prefer.  You can get Allen "Apex-bits" also, either as separate tool bits or as socket-wrench sets, to fit your "impact" tool.

Best wishes.
.

[Troyskie]

Welcome back Jens.

I think you may have some neighbors who can support your rebuild it’s local alternatives and suggestions. Local to me is a few hundred km  .

Mate, please check the brakes and clutch. If she runs you’ll likely want to change gears and stop  .

Once you get on the road and are confident, try and do a two tank run nice and hard. The FJ likes it.

Enjoy chasing your son.

[Fjotten85]

Thanks, Troyskie! I'll pop by Next time passing by Your neighbourhood 
I cant ride my bike from now until March, so I should migrate to Down under for Winter season, anyway....
So when sping comes, I'll do the run ... and Yeah; safety first!

Thanks, Red: yes, I think it is poor fitting of bit for the first tries to loosen screws. But the screws that I ruined was really stuck. One was unbraco (oil pan) which I also heated during hammering, but I did not risk even the air blow heating on the fuel tank .... But replacement is easy.
Thanks again.