Fuel leak out of carb t-junction

[ajacstern]

Hi guys,

Recently picked up an FJ1200 in really bad shape. Crashed, brake fluid spilled on it, then left to rot for 20 years. I just cleaned the carburetors and put them back on but there is a ton of fuel leaking out of the white connector on the left side. The one that I think is supposed to be connected to the vacuum advance. The pipe doesn't seem to want to fit on the junction so that might not be it. The original airbox was removed. Is fuel supposed to come out of the white T-junction?

Thank you!

[Tuned forks]

You may want to specify which year FJ you have.

Joe

[Pat Conlon]

I suspect you are talking about the fuel bowl vent T's..... no, that is not normal, that is abby normal.
You have
1) Float level set incorrectly
2) a float that does not float
3) a stuck float,
4) bad float needle seat O ring,
5) crap in your float needle seat from the crap in your dirty fuel tank...
6) any or all the above ^^^...

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=46.0

[ajacstern]

It's a 1987. Think you are right that it is a float level problem as the metering needle has a bit of a pool of gasoline around it. I only have one spare float so I'll replace the one that looks the worst on that t-junction and see if that fixes it. Order the other three if not. Anyone have tricks for gettings the carbs on? I found a pry bar works for getting them off but it's near impossible to get them back on to the boots even with motor oil as lube. Also one of the four slides has a flat (square) bottom the other three are stock, do you think this would affect much?

Sadly the gas tank is beyond dirty, I tried soldering in the numerous holes on the top of the tank and then the bottom blew out when I was testing if it would hold gas, answered my question for sure. When I press the engine start button nothing happens just the fuel light comes on. I can turn the engine over by jumping the solenoid but the starter button doesn't do anything. Will the bike not start with the fuel sending unit disconnected or should I just troubleshoot the starter relay circuit?

Thanks.

[Pat Conlon]

Heat gun: Heat up the intake boots, get them hot to the touch, that will expand them and soften up the rubber... now, straddle the bike so you can get some power out of your arms while you evenly push on the carb rack....put the carb lips into the manifold boots and wiggle the carb bank up and down while you push hard...you should feel a click as the carbs seat into the intake manifold.

Floats: just fill up a bowl with water and hold the float under water and see if any bubbles appear, then hold the float under water for a couple of days....see if it fills up with water.
Actually, I've never had a problem with a gas logged float on a FJ...on Honda's yes...FJ's no.

Slides: Your 1987 should have the carb slides with the curved bottoms. The single carb with a flat bottom slide came from a different FJ, a 1984/85 FJ1100.  The emulsion tubes (aka needle jets) are different between the flat slides and curved slides...sounds like you have a mish mash.

You know, the more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to recommend to you to get professional help on those carbs. If you are located in North America I would recommend you contact Robert at RPM (see banner at top) to see about a untrasonic deep cleaning and an evaluation.

You have your hands full with that old girl, get some help on your carbs...one less thing to worry about.

Don't  get discouraged....we can find you a tank. We are glad you are restoring that bike. Kudos!

Cheers

Pat.

[Millietant]

Regarding the starting, when the dashboard lights come on when pressing the starter button, it's usually a clutch switch or kill-switch problem as it sounds like you're just not getting power to the starter motor. You don't say if the neutral light, or oil levels lights are on or not, before you press the starter button - presumably they are ?

[ribbert]

Floats: just fill up a bowl with water and hold the float under water and see if any bubbles appear, then hold the float under water for a couple of days....see if it fills up with water.

Pat.

Pat, do you want to have another crack at that?

Noel

[Pat Conlon]

Keep the float under water for a couple of days....don't hold it...

[ajacstern]

Thanks for all the tips guys! Carbs were definitely in a bad way but all the jets and passageways are clean now, had to use heat on a couple pilot jets they were so clogged. The gunk boiled out. I think they are the wrong jetting as they have a #140 main and a 37.5 pilot, I think they use a #112.5 and a 40 normally. The airbox is removed so maybe that is why it was rejetted, see how it runs when it runs to see if I will change the jetting. I checked the floats for holes and didn't see anything but that is a good point that I should check if they are still floating or not. I had to replace the neutral safety switch as it literally melted out of the bike but the neutral light came on after the replacement. If I remember correctly the oil level light doesn't come on but I might be mistaken. When I press the starter button only the fuel light comes on everything else turns off. I don't hear any clicks either.

Looking at an FJ1100 tank as they are more available and slightly larger. I found a forum post here saying they are direct bolt ons to the 87 (The petcock mounting bolts are the same?), are the FJ1200 fuel caps compatible with FJ1100 tank?

Cheers.

[Millietant]

The 1200's all came with flush-mount fillers,  but the 1100 didn't, so I'd guess the answer on the filler cap swap will be a no, sorry.

[balky1]

And caps for 1100 tank are hard to find, while 1200 caps are readily available.

[ajacstern]

Okay, I think I am going to end up getting an 1100 tank all the same and then welding in the flush fuel cap section from the 1200 tank. The price difference between the 1100 and 1200 is big enough that it will still be cheaper. Does anyone know good PPG/duplicolor/whatever alternatives to the 1987 colors? I tried to get 00AJ (stormy red), 00GE (silky white), and 0033 (Yamaha Black) mixed but it doesn't seem to be in any of the auto places databases. Colorrite is far too expensive for this project.

[ribbert]

Floats: just fill up a bowl with water and hold the float under water and see if any bubbles appear, then hold the float under water for a couple of days....see if it fills up with water.
Actually, I've never had a problem with a gas logged float on a FJ...on Honda's yes...FJ's no.

Pat.

Fuel has smaller molecules than water (about 25% I think) so it will flow through openings water won't. There are all sorts of widely available products from funnels to inline filters that that work on that principle, allowing a free flow of fuel but blocking water.

If you want to hold it under water looking for bubbles, make the water very hot so the air inside the float heats up and forces the air out under pressure, making it easier to see.

But really, if it's been leaking, it will have fuel in it, just put it up to your ear and shake it!




Noel

[racerrad8]

But really, if it's been leaking, it will have fuel in it, just put it up to your ear and shake it!
Noel

Noel, you must have the most excellent hearing in the world to hear the fuel sloshing in the cellulose micro pockets within the FJ float.

I mean I know I can hear it in the old school carbs with brass floats that are hollow inside. But the FJ floats are completely different technology and that "diagnostic" process won't work for these floats.
(unless you have the bestest, mostest, excellent hearing in the world)

Randy - RPM

[Pat Conlon]

Well shit, holding it underwater always worked fine for my bicycle tire inner tube.....and my toilet float...

I never thought of molecule size.... so Randy how do you check the floats? Bubbles? Weight?