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Fuel leak out of carb t-junction

Started by ajacstern, February 10, 2020, 05:28:14 PM

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racerrad8

Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 15, 2020, 04:26:37 PM
... so Randy how do you check the floats? Bubbles? Weight?

We do not liquid check the Mikuni floats. Visual inspection and if the cellulose material has any imperfections they are replaced. They will continue to float even when damaged because they are cellulose, but I worry about float material degradation when the smooth outer surface is damaged.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

ZOA NOM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on February 15, 2020, 04:26:37 PM
Well shit, holding it underwater always worked fine for my bicycle tire inner tube.....and my toilet float...

Works a treat on terrorists too!
Rick

Current:
2010 Honda VFR1200 DCT (Full Auto!)
1993 FJ/GSXR 1200 (-ABS)
1987 Porsche 911 Carrera (Race)
1988 Porsche Carrera (Street)
Previous:
1993 FJ1200 (FIREBALL)
1993 FJ1200ABS (RIP my collar bone)
1986 FZ750
1984 FJ600
1982 Seca

Pat Conlon

Thanks Randy  :good:

Rick, Rick, Rick.....  :hang1:

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

ajacstern

Ah, good to know that about these floats. The surface on one is a little bit scratched up, looks like from sandpaper or maybe scotchbrite. Would that cause an issue? It is still flat just lightly scratched.

Had to chase around some electrical gremlins as the rats turned the wiring harness into a meal, does anyone know what the connector to the flasher relay + safety cutoff relay (the one beneath the cowling on the left side) is called? It is severely damaged but I am not sure what to replace it with. I got the bike running on starter fluid. Sounded good but died on anything but no throttle and full choke (which is to be expected with carb issues). Air was blowing out from somewhere on the right side near the carb boot to cylinder junction not sure what that is yet. I replaced the carb needles and valve seats and sadly still a leak. This time out of the float bowl drain instead of the t junction, so I'd call that progress. Also, the heat gun trick worked quite well to get the carbs on, thanks! I want to change the jetting out now as it is way off. The original airbox was removed and replaced with K&N filters, does anyone know what jet sizes work well with these? If the bike is jetted a bit lean from factory I might move up a size.

FJ_Hooligan

I would predict continued frustration until you get 4 carbs that are the same. 
Does the carb with a flat bottom slide have a shrouded needle jet (emulsion tube). 
Maybe the PO got cheap and replaced the curved slide with a flat one.  Are all 4 needles the same?

From what I recall, the needle shape and jetting was WAY different between the flat bottom slides and the curved slides
DavidR.

ajacstern

The needle shape is definitely different, I will switch out the wrong slide but all of the jetting is wrong. Just not sure whether to put in stock jets or one size up.

Starting to look at tires to put on the bike and the selection of 16" tires is very disappointing. Considering the GSXR rear wheel conversion to 17". A little confused about the mod though as some people say it is a bolt up mod and usable with just the GSXR rim and FJ spacers. Others say that there is a mounting bar for the rear caliper bracket that you need to change to a footpeg attachment but the bolt will shear off so you need to custom make a Z bracket. Anyone have experience with this? Also, I only have the 16" front wheel, can I use the 16" front with a 17"

Thanks. 

ajacstern

Okay, got all the carb slides and needles the same and she runs like hot garbage. Only starts with starter spray and only runs on full choke w/ no throttle. Smokes a ton, which was helpful in identifying an air leak. The carb inlet boots are melted where they meet with the engine so will be replacing those. Will be switching the jets from 37.5/140 to 40/115. Not sure what the PO was doing with jetting but it is way off, probably why the bike overheated.

Looking to replace the rubber brake and clutch lines as they are definitely overdue. The clutch lines goes from soft line to hard line and then back again, would I be okay switching it to all soft line? I can get generic steel braided or rubber soft line so that would be the easiest route. There are no hydraulic shops that make brake lines in my state it seems. Not sure what Yamaha was doing with the front brake line routing. It goes from the MC to an l-bracket with double banjo and then the calipers are double banjo'd to the anti-dive system. Why not just do a double banjo bolt at the MC and skip the l-bracket? What I plan on doing is removing the l-bracket, replacing the anti-dive line with a regular bolt, and going double banjo from MC to calipers. Anybody know any decent places that make custom lines? I believe the sizes for the 87 FJ's are 31" and 33" in the front and 42.5" for the clutch. 

Pat Conlon

Spiegler makes custom lines.
https://spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-lines-accessories-tools/custom-brake-lines.html

I have Spiegler lines on all the bikes I've worked on...expensive but worth it. Spiegler banjo's can be clocked (turned) so to assure that you have zero line twist. I use a piece of #12 electrical wire to verify line length.

Where my 1 piece clutch line runs next to my hot engine, I wrap the Spiegler line with foil HVAC tape.
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Tuned forks

The brake hoses that Pat mentions are available from our sponsor, RPM.  Yes, as with many things for old machines, they are expensive.  Quality rarely comes cheaply.

https://www.rpmracingca.com/products.asp?cat=23&pg=3

I used them on the '90 FJ and they work fine.  The clutch hose replaces your stock hard line, per your question.

Joe

1990 FJ1200-the reacher
1990 FZR 1000-crotch rocket

ajacstern

Have had plenty of time at home with what's happening recently so been able to get some work done on the FJ. She is running well, no smoke and starts easy. Need to sync the carbs so I am working on making one of those bottle carb tools but I have a feeling I am going to have to take the carbs off again and bench sync as they got pretty far off when I tried syncing them with an attempted carb tool that failed horribly.

Working on getting the rear wheel rolling, got the tire off after a lot of fighting. Rolled my car onto it three times and that didn't pop the bead, had to jack up the car and drop it onto the tire twice to finally get it off. Obviously didn't start trying to break the bead with my car, but c-clamp, tire irons, and the kickstand of another bike did nothing. After I got the beads off still had to fight to get it off the rim, ended up cutting it in the end which would have made the whole process a lot easier if I just started with that. 30°F weather + rubber that has been sitting in the sun for 30 years = bad time. Definitely going to replace the brake lines for those spieglers, thanks for the suggestion.

Trying to get the rear wheel bearings out, one of them is rusted in. It's the one on the rotor side which as far as I can tell is the only one you can move the spacer a bit to get to. I can't move the spacer very far though, I can only get a little bit of lip and the lip that I can get is tapered. No matter what I try my punch just keeps slipping off it. I've tried making custom punches but it just keeps slipping off. Any ideas? Obviously a bearing puller would be ideal or even an expandable bolt but I don't have either of those and I'm trying to avoid making trips to hardware stores.

Stay safe.

Motofun

Park makes a tool for knocking out bearings.  It's like a long punch but the end that engages the bearing is split into four prongs that splay out.  You slip the tool through the hollow shaft until the splayed ends engage the bearing , then use a hammer to knock out the bearing.  The tool was designed for bicycle head stock bearings but work on MCs too..Tried to find a picture of it on their website but no luck.
'69 Honda Trail 90
'75 Honda CB400F
'85 Yamaha RZ350
'85 Yamaha FJ1100
'89 Yamaha FJ1200
'09 Yamaha 125 Zuma
'09 Kawasaki KZ110 (grand kids)
'13 Suzuki GSXR 750 (track)
'14 Yamaha FZ-09
'18 Suzuki GSXR 1000R (track)
'23 Yamaha Tenere 7
SOLD: CBX,RZ500,Ninja 650,CB400F,V45 Sabre,CB700SC,R1

Pat Conlon

1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

ajacstern

Got the FJ out the other day and I'm pretty impressed. The power is insane compared to the dirtbikes I'm used to. It seems to have stopped burning oil all by itself so that works for me. Found two new problems, the clutch slips and there is a ticking sound dependant on engine speed. I am assuming it is either a cam chain issue or a loose valve. Not sure whether the clutch is slipping due to worn plates or bad spring, will have to open it up and check. Do you not have to drain the oil if you put the bike on the side stand? The front brakes suck but I am not sure if I want to buy new braided steel lines now or wait until I can get a later model front end with 17' wheel and put blue dot calipers on it. If I get brake lines now will they be compatible with an 89+ front end with blue dots? Ended up buying the tool to knock the old wheel bearings out, thanks for the suggestions.

I also had an issue that I thought was a vacuum leak. It would idle fine, but as soon as the motor got warm it would jump from 1000rpm to nearly 3k. Tracked it down to the vacuum advance. I unplugged it and the bike seems to work fine. Is there any way to rebuild/recalibrate them? Any reason I shouldn't drive around with it unplugged?

Cheers.

Millietant

If you get blue spot calipers on any FJ, the brake lines have to be changed due to the different angles between the brake line banjo mounting points on the FJ calipers vs the blue spots.

If you get the braided lines for your standard FJ brakes, make sure you get ones where you can loosen off and rotate the bottom banjo fittings so you can use them with the blue spots when you change to them  - not sure if the RPM lines are like that or not.
Dean

'89 FJ 1200 3CV - owned from new.
'89 FJ 1200 3CV - no engine, tank, seat....parts bike for the future.
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - complete runner 2024 resto project
'88 FJ 1200 3CV - became a race bike, no longer with us.
'86 FJ 1200 1TX - sold to my boss to finance the '89 3CV I still own.

andyoutandabout

Ahh yes and no on the blue dots. Yes the newer blue dots have a different angled fitting. I bought some that had this and was so angry that I used my rage to twist the existing braided lines and forced them to fit. Probably not the best idea, but they've been problem free for about 100,000 miles now.
However, the older blue dots from Yzf600s do have the same fitment orientation, so you could just get a set of those if you're on a budget.
life without a bike is just life