Brake Upgrade for My FJ1100

[krusty]

Bought these. They'll be going on my 1100 as I want to keep my 1220 stock.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-R1-R6-CALIPERS-WITH-MOUNTING-BOLTS-AND-PAIR-OF-BRAKE-LINES-VGC/153962128165?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[Pat Conlon]

They won't fit on your 1100.

[krusty]

I should have mentioned that I already have '88 1200 forks fitted to the 1100.
It has stock wheels with early V-Max rotors. I'm guessing that with the stock 16" wheel, larger diam rotors, plus these calipers, should provide very much improved stopping power.

[aviationfred]

The R1/R6 calipers will work on your 1100 ONLY if you have 88 or later forks, 17 inch front wheel and 298mm or 300mm rotors.

Using the brackets in the following link will allow you to use the R1/R6 calipers with the 1100 anti-dive forks and the 282mm rotors and the 16 inch front wheel

http://www.exactrep.com/acatalog/Front-Hanger-Brackets--pair--12B.html#SID=22

Fred

[Millietant]

Holy crap Kriusty.......$150 Aus.......that seems mega expensive....glad I live where eBay prices are reasonable !!

[krusty]

I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.

[Starquest]

Mine is a 1986. 89 forks,gold caliper stainless braided lines, v-max rotors ,r1 master cylinder, on 16 inch wheel.

[PaulG]

I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.

Ouch.     I paid $25 for a pair of R6 blue dots with all the lines (which I didn't need) from the wreckers for my '92.  I guess when they have you over a barrell there's not much you can do.

[Bones]

I got a $20 discount so it was really only $130. Most I found were about $160-$170. Equivalent USD was about $90.
There were cheaper ones on US Ebay but shipping costs were horrendous.

Ouch.     I paid $25 for a pair of R6 blue dots with all the lines (which I didn't need) from the wreckers for my '92.  I guess when they have you over a barrell there's not much you can do.

Occasionally you'll score a bargain here, I got an FJR front brake master complete with silver spot calipers for I think $120.00, but normally that price or higher would be for each. Nothing is cheap to buy here compared to other countries.

[krusty]

Mine is a 1986. 89 forks,gold caliper stainless braided lines, v-max rotors ,r1 master cylinder, on 16 inch wheel.

As it is at the moment.

[krusty]

Blue spots arrived on Friday. They look good except the dust seals on one are toast. Pistons look ok but will know better when I have them out. Odd thing was they calipers had mixed pads. I'll see if I can get a pic of them.

[krusty]

Removed inner pistons today, all in good condition with no sign of corrosion. I'll remove the inner pistons when the special tool arrives from UK. August 2017 Classic Motorcycle Mechanics has a How To feature on R6 brake overhaul.
                                   

[Pat Conlon]

Go ahead and replace the seals on the inner pistons, reinstall the 2 pistons, then use a c clamp to hold the 2 inner pistons in place, now use your air compressor to blow out the outer pistons.

I do not recommend messing around with those blue spot buttons.

Over the years we have changed thousands of piston seals on the Yamaha monoblock calipers and have never needed a special tool or needed to remove those buttons.  

[krusty]

Still waiting for the seals to arrive and also a dental pick off Ebay which will make it easier to get the old items out of the bores.
In the meantime I've been kept busy. Ever had one of those experiences where one simple job leads to another - and another?
I noticed the clutch was also weeping on the 1100 so I fitted new seals (which arrived a couple of days ago) to one of the M/cs I'd already cleaned up. Fitted that to the bike and bled the clutch, again no trouble there. However, when I had finished and cleaned up I wheeled the bike to the back of the garage and noticed it was hard to push. I put the bike up on the centre stand and tried to turn the rear wheel (in neutral) - I could hardly move it. I instantly suspected that the tiny pressure relief hole in the rear m/c must be blocked with crud. I've come across this problem before on other old(er) bikes.
As it happened, a friend of mine had recently sold his 1200 and had a box of parts left over from when he rebuilt it a few years back. He offered them to me, gratis. Among the stuff was a complete, clean rear, brake system. I checked it over and checked the little hole in the m/c and all looked very good. The pads that came with it were almost worn out but the pads on my 1100 were excellent as I had replaced them when I got the bike about 3 years ago and they haven't done a lot of Ks.
It was a straightforward swap. Out with old and in with the new. Bled the system and all was good again. This afternoon I took it for a test ride and all went well, only thing I had to adjust was the brake pedal.
The old brake system is now stored along with my other brake bits ready to be overhauled for another 1100 I am working on.

Something I just thought of. It wouldn't start while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. I checked the lever switch and it tested ok. Is there something else that could be at fault?

[T Legg]

The kickstand has to be up also when it is in gear to start.