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[ajacstern]

Hi guys, how's it going. The JB weld fix for the cracked cases has been holding well so far which is good, but it has also sprung another oil leak somewhere under the oil pan so still cleaning oil off the floor every night haha.

As the title suggests, I was accelerating in 2nd gear when there was a bang, the tacho went past redline, and I had a 2nd neutral. 2nd gear is still there and the oil had no major metal particles. It does slip out on heavy acceleration now but it is there for cruising. The cost of fixing is too much right now so I am just going to short shift.

I was trying again to get the carburetion right and when I took the fuel line off the tank the 3 way plastic y just snapped into pieces. Can't find a replacement anywhere so I grabbed a brass t from an autoparts store. The ID of the fitting is only 7mm where as the Yamaha fitting was 8mm, will this cause an issue with fuel starvation? It is also a t rather than a y which increases flow resistance I think, not very good at fluid dynamics. Anyone have a good replacement to the three way fuel fitting?

Cheers.

[FJmonkey]

Using a slightly smaller T in place of the OEM Y is not likely to cause any issues. Slightly smaller might be an issue during sustained wide open throttle periods like on the race track or the Autoban, your call. More likely to have an issue when low on fuel with the throttle open. Low fuel in the tank equals lower pressure pushing down to the carbs. When I know I am low on fuel I tend to avoid the WOT.

As far as 2nd gear, the shift fork is likely bent, common issue with early shift forks. No loss of metal. It will no longer hold under full load. Short shift till you can fix it.

Keep riding it, its still good.

[T Legg]

I have had a slipping second and third gear for almost three years. The slipping has slowly progressed occurring at lower rpms. It's been annoying but the bike is still very usable. I finally ordered all the parts from rpm to install an undercut transmission and shift detent kit . They are sitting in a box waiting for me to install them. The total cost was only $760.00 and included all gaskets lock washers shaft seals o rings oil pump pick up screen new improved shift forks the detent kit and of course a transmission with undercut gears.

[Millietant]

What.....you mean you use a gear other than 5th gear ?

[fj1289]

What.....you mean you use a gear other than 5th gear ?

ACCELERATION!!!!!

[ajacstern]

Ok, good to know about the fuel T. I couldn't feel any fuel starvation but I didn't spend much time WOT either so tough to say. Makes routing the lines much easier for sure.

Yes, I am pretty sure it is a bent shift fork(and thusly rounded - maybe called overcut? - dogs as well). Not surprised as I heard it was a common issue, but I figured since the bike already had 25k miles it had either been fixed or shifted gently, no such luck I guess. There is also barely any feedback from the shift lever when shifting, I have heard that RPM's bearing mod fixes that though. Will do that at the same time as the tranny fix. Having to short shift second is too much of a problem as others have noted, this bike would be fine if the only gear was fifth.

I bought a bottle of brake fluid because I wanted to reroute the front brake lines, when I first installed the SS lines they rubbed between the fairing and forks. I have a bunch of extra brake fluid but nothing to do with it before it goes bad. Is the FJR clutch MC swap worth it? A slightly lighter clutch pull would be nice, plus the levers would match. I don't want it to mess up the shifting though, I can shift with two fingers right now because it goes into gear with just a tiny bit of movement. Don't want to have to pull the clutch all the way to the bar.

Thanks for the replies.

[ajacstern]

Got a decent compression tester so I checked all the cylinder. Lowest was 140psi, highest was 160. Those numbers were cold so I think the compression is pretty good. That means that the bike stalling out under braking and massive flatspot from 3-5k is almost certainly from carbs. I believe that the emulsion tubes are worn out, can't see them very well but at 25k I am not surprised. The other thing is I am almost certain I have dynojet needles in there, so I need new needles as well. Can either go with dynojet kit + new emulsion tubes for 140 or a complete Mikuni rebuild kit for 180. Advantage of the rebuild kit is new o-rings, gaskets, mixture screw, etc. Plus I can use Mikuni jets instead of dynojets. If the dynojet kit is better I might go for that. Any experience?

Cheers.

[ajacstern]

Got a decent compression tester so I checked all the cylinder. Lowest was 140psi, highest was 160. Those numbers were cold so I think the compression is pretty good. That means that the bike stalling out under braking and massive flatspot from 3-5k is almost certainly from carbs. I believe that the emulsion tubes are worn out, can't see them very well but at 25k I am not surprised. The other thing is I am almost certain I have dynojet needles in there, so I need new needles as well. Can either go with dynojet kit + new emulsion tubes for 140 or a complete Mikuni rebuild kit for 180. Advantage of the rebuild kit is new o-rings, gaskets, mixture screw, etc. Plus I can use Mikuni jets instead of dynojets. If the dynojet kit is better I might go for that. Any experience?

Cheers.

Also, does anyone know the code for adjustable needles for the fj1200? Can I use the UK needles on a USA model? US lists 5FZ72 but those are non adjustable, UK lists 5FZ74 and those are. Are they the same needle just one is adjustable?