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A view of a Pingel Fuel valve with a quick disconnect 85 FJ1100

Started by ccsct203, May 21, 2010, 09:41:28 PM

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ccsct203

If it's not broken, fix it anyways

rom_selecta

that looks handy... I am guessing it doesnt leak when the pin is pulled?
FJ1200 1988 3CV - Bog Standard... for now LOL

Aussie Ex-pat livin' the high life in Tokyo!

ccsct203

Quote from: rom_selecta on May 24, 2010, 02:51:28 AM
that looks handy... I am guessing it doesnt leak when the pin is pulled?

the quick disconnect seals off the fuel flow and you don't need to unscrew the gas line to take the tank off. just press the button on the quick disconnect
If it's not broken, fix it anyways

racerrad8

I have just ordered those parts listed in the photo. This might be the easier answer to the early petcock replacement/cost issue.

I will post the price(s) after I get the parts tomorrow.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

racerrad8

I did not even ask what these parts cost when I ordered them, and although they are pricey, they are going to be cheaper than a new or NOS O.E. valve. This petcock does have a reserve function built into it as well. The one major benefit is the mechanical function of the petcock eliminating the vacuum & electrical function failures that can happen with the O.E valve. Plus, this this is well built and I don't think the fitting will ever fall out which the O.E. is known for and has led to several fires.

I found an few O.E. petcocks on eBay priced at $199.99. This valve is going to sell for $126.17 and as I stated earlier I have one in stock. After looking at this valve, I am probably going to replace both of mine to eliminate the problem areas of the O.E. valve.

I also ordered the quick connect as seen in the photo, but it is not required, but it sure will make tank removal much easier; It sells for $19.00.

If you are interested, let me know.
Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

SlowOldGuy

If you go this route, better make sure your needles, seats and floats are in top condition.  Or, you'll end up with a tank full of air one day.  :-)

DavidR.

racerrad8

David,

This is true, but the reason I replace my o-rings annually. They are subjected to so much heat over the course of a year it is cheap insurance to minimize carbs overflow issues.

I might also see if I can make a place to access the lever without having to remove the bodywork to use the shut off function as well.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

SlowOldGuy

Quote from: racerrad8 on May 29, 2010, 01:58:11 PM
I might also see if I can make a place to access the lever without having to remove the bodywork to use the shut off function as well.
Randy - RPM

Randy,
That would be cool.  It would be a major PITA to have to remove the sidecover and/or raise the tank to access the petcock everytime.

I have the quick disconnect for my '85, but haven't installed it as I see no way to make it fit with the stock petcock and line routing.  I wonder it there's room to come horizontally out of the stock petcock and make a different loop without kinking?

DavidR.

Pat Conlon

Quote from: racerrad8 on May 29, 2010, 01:58:11 PM
I might also see if I can make a place to access the lever without having to remove the bodywork to use the shut off function as well.
Randy - RPM

Yes, that would be cool. Perhaps a longer lever on the petcock sticking thru a slot in the side cover?  Hmmmm

How's the back coming along Randy?
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

ccsct203

what I did was remove the grommet on the front of the left side cover. I have Mikuni rs carbs so my choke needs to be engaged from there anyways.
I am able to turn on and off the valve easily.
I'm thinking of adding an electric NOS fuel solenoid made for a nitrous app.
This way... key on solenoid has power= fuel flow 
If it's not broken, fix it anyways

racerrad8

David also got me thinking. I found a vacuum operated Pingel petcock, but the mounting might not work with the adapter plate. I will research that next week and post it here in regards to if it will work as well as the price & availability.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

WS

By installing a quick disconnect I would not go for the plastic one. They have the tendency to break. There are nice ones out of metal. The cost is around $60.00 depending on the store. But they are worth their money. Werner

Pat Conlon

Quote from: ccsct203 on May 29, 2010, 09:13:48 PM
I'm thinking of adding an electric NOS fuel solenoid made for a nitrous app.
This way... key on solenoid has power= fuel flow  

Yes, great idea, a properly sized, in line electric solenoid added to the Pingel petcock would be a good solution:
http://www.altfuel.com/solenoids.htm


1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

andyb

Quote from: ccsct203 on May 29, 2010, 09:13:48 PM

I'm thinking of adding an electric NOS fuel solenoid made for a nitrous app.
This way... key on solenoid has power= fuel flow 

Check into the current draw and do the math first.  Don't think the fuel solenoids are too bad, I know the nitrous solenoids are a pretty stiff current draw though.

Arnie

My other bike uses plastic quick dis-connects that occasionally cause problems.
While I have not had any problems to date, I have kept this information on one of the suppliers for possible future use.

The female QDs are 90deg elbow type.  They probably also have straight barbed type for both ends.

Arnie


Fuel Quick Disconnects      http://www.omega.com/pptst/ftlc.html   OR   http://tinyurl.com/qcqspr
   
I ended up in my search finally contacting CPC direct after going through their extensive catalog. They were very nice in helping me out over the phone and Email at the time. The Part #'s they provided me at the time were as follows:

white plastic OEM style
"LCD10004" 1/4 NPT Threaded Female
"LCD23006" 3/8 Barbed male

Chrome plated version was
"PLCD10004" 1/4 NPT Threaded Female
"PLCD23006" 3/8 Barbed Male

CPC refferred me to a local distributor, as they would not sell direct.