DRLs (Picking up on previous RAM scoop thread)

[nurse]

Ok folks, i previously struggled to get the RAM sccops off, but with a little gentle persuasion they came out.  Once screws are out, They have a plastic bit with an arrow profiled head that sits in a rubber housing within the frame an just needs jiggling to get it out.  Consider this though, it is essential to remove these or fitting lights these just wont happen!

I sourced the lights from this site.  www.bikevis.com  Service was good, postage was a bit overinflated (twice actual cost - as price in uk is printed on the stamp!!)  the items themeselves were ok.  The LED pods themselves can be found cheaper else where on tinternet as can some of their other items however i have not yet seen their LED bullets elsewhere, so i ordered a few bits together.

As for the install i made a couple of brackets by bending some flat aluminium (please note i have spelt and pronounced it correctly!!) and mounted the bullet LEDs to them then bolted it to the inside of the fairing frame.  The side pods were easier just a matter of measuring and drilling carefully.  What was a nightmare was running the wiring.  Its about the only time in my life i have ever wished i had small 'lady' hands.  There is not a lot of free space behind there but i made it work (after about 5 hours!! and that was without making and painting brackets).  I was advised re cautious use of solder, so i hedged my bets and used solder and connector blocks, once done i didnt fancy having to go backe and do it all again).  All worked out well, in the end.

In the end i used the Pink and brown feeds on the right hand side located just behind the Right RAM scoop (these are the permanent live feeds to the horn) to power the LEDs.  They dont use alot of juice 0.06 for the bullets and 0.12 for the pods.  Was advised it was optional to use an in line blade fuse of about one amp, but smallest i have found at local motor factors is a 3 amp, anyone think i even need the fuse at all!!

I also replaced the park light with an x5 LED small bayonet cap bulb (loads on ebay).  I wouldnt say this is brighter (in terms of Lumen) but it is a clearer/whiter light.

My aim for this was for it all to be reversible, look as close to stock as possible and not too be obtrusive.  I think i have achieved it!?!







let there be light

[FJmonkey]

That looks really good, keep the fuse, better to find out later if you have a problem by finding the fuse blown first. Consider it an early warning device that might prevent a fire or catastrophic failure.

[The General]

Good onya Mate, I`m seriously impressed. You`ve taken the best look`n bike of a daytime and turned it inta tha romerlisa of night. (all while keeping a foot on three tin lids & a smile for tha cheese and kisses).
What`s it like from the cockpit?

[nurse]

Good onya Mate, I`m seriously impressed. You`ve taken the best look`n bike of a daytime and turned it inta tha romerlisa of night. (all while keeping a foot on three tin lids & a smile for tha cheese and kisses).
What`s it like from the cockpit?

How is it we speak exactly the same language and yet I can't understand a word?? I was with ya right up until romerlisa?? What's romerlisa? And I haven't got a clue about the next bit!

From the cockpit, it looks ok, it lights up the garage wall in the daylight, so it's fairly bright!


Thanks for the advice monkey, guess I had better get back in there and find space for an in line fuse!  Will have to track down a 1 amp flavoured variety first!

[The General]

Yeah sorry mate, my mis spell`ns thrown ya out. Should have been "Romalisa". It`s in tha Aussie Dictionary referring ta some famous painting of a sheila with a great smile on her dial......didn`t mean ta get deep & artistic.....just tha pic of that model bike makes me all sensitive ....True Blue Beauty does that.

[FJmonkey]

The Aussies like to take words and phrases and replac/mix in words that ryme to color things up a bit. Try this, a good read for us Seppos http://alldownunder.com/australian-slang/index.html

[Dads_FJ]

They do look swell!  But yes, a fuse would be in order... and I would recommend a grommet where the wires run through the hole in the mounting plate.  .02

[nurse]

They do look swell!  But yes, a fuse would be in order... and I would recommend a grommet where the wires run through the hole in the mounting plate.  .02

I know what you mean about the grommet but the tolerance is so fine it would push the bracket down and back therefore making it foul the forks. It was also a bloody nightmare to feed the wires through there without any extra restrictions.  It is well cable tied so should have little or no movement, and u can't see it vibrating through in a hurry!

Just thinking about the fuse, if it blows whilst out I only loose the horn (so no massive loss) but I wouldn't be able to replace fuse until back home as I would need to remive the scoops.  Anyone happen to know of somewhere else easier I can pick up that brown or pink feed that is more accessible?

[Dads_FJ]

Adding accessories is never ending for me, this was my solution on my Yamaha TDM850, but can be applied to any bike.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=7007.msg62059#msg62059

[Arnie]

Nurse,

You said, "Just thinking about the fuse, if it blows whilst out I only loose the horn (so no massive loss) but I wouldn't be able to replace fuse until back home as I would need to remive the scoops.  Anyone happen to know of somewhere else easier I can pick up that brown or pink feed that is more accessible?"

The Horn and Turn Indicators are already fused with the "SIGNALS" fuse under the seat.  You could separately fuse the running lights with an additional inline fuse, but it doesn't have to be a BIG fuse.  There are some inline bladed fuses and some inline mini bladed fuse holders available at electronics components shops.  BTW  a short that blows a 1A fuse will probably also blow a 3A fuse.  The LED lights you bought are cheap enough that fusing them will not keep them from failing and it will also blow the "Signals" fuse.  With the minimal draw these lights have, if you really want to fuse them you could use a 1/2A or even a 1/4A fuse.

Arnie

[nurse]

Thinking on this, if i chop in an in-line fuse at 1 amp and (for arguements sake the horn uses say 2-3amp) wont the fuse blow every time i try to give some useless driver a 'toot' (not that they could hear the stock horn anyway!)

[Arnie]

Depends on where you put the fuse.
The "Signals" fuse already protects the circuit the horn is part of.  So, if you put an additional 1A fuse in series with the "Signals" circuit, then yes, you'll blow the fuse when you are trying to blow the horn.
However, you could put the 1A (or 1/2A or 1/4A) fuse on just the part of the circuit you have your added DRL LEDs on without affecting the operation of the rest of the "Signals" devices.

As you've already finished the install, and may be having some difficulty with the finer points of fusing, I'd leave it as is.  Anything likely to blow a 1A fuse on your DRL subcircuit will likely also blow the 5A (IIRC) "Signals" fuse.

Arnie

[Dads_FJ]

Tap off it like this and your horn will be safe.



But as Arnie stated (and others), there's already a fuse in place so if there's a short or other issue you'll be w/o a horn and anything else on that circuit, but at least you can make it home.

[nurse]

I wasnt having issues with the fusing as such, more the location! I know where i should have located it, just means a bit more jiggery pokery and some desoldering which i was hoping to avoid!  However what must be done, must be done!  Should have put it in whilst i had the panels off but if im honest i completely forgot about it until i cleaned up the work bench and found the fuse holder i bought, under the Haynes manual wiring diagram!!!


Thanks for the help/advice though!

[nurse]

Tap off it like this and your horn will be safe.

Thanks 'Daddyo' thats the way im going!

Now where did i leave those wire cutters!