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'92 140,000Km rebuild.

Started by tmkaos, November 12, 2012, 02:25:04 PM

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ribbert

Quote from: tmkaos on November 17, 2012, 10:00:08 PM

But the old girl decided to kick me in the nuts on last time..  These 2 capscrews, either side are both frozen SOLID, and the heads have rounded off, the Aluminium Yamaha used for these must been made from recycled slag.

I've sprayed some CRC onto them, try again tomorrow. If all else fails it's back to the Australian Spanner - otherwise known as an angle grinder. Take the heads off and deal with them that way. Not elegant, but effective.


I work on old cars, ie. 70, 80, 90 years old, many haven't been touched for decades and many have been poorly stored.

Of all my bolt freeing tricks, my favourite is a solid belt, or several, with a big hammer.  It breaks the seal, and in the case of a philips head or hex head it closes up the head a bit and makes the tool a tighter fit.  My next favourite is the oxy torch if the location allows you to get a lot of heat into the bolt fairly quickly.

Another thing that works on those button head hex bolts is the short allen keys that fit on your socket set, takes all the spring out of the tool, and repeatedly hit it with a hammer while applying force on the socket bar.

Noel
"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

Arnie

Ribbert said, "Of all my bolt freeing tricks, my favourite is a solid belt, or several, with a big hammer.  It breaks the seal, and in the case of a philips head or hex head it closes up head a bit and makes the tool a tighter fit.  My next favourite is the oxy torch if the location allows you to get a lot of heat into the bolt fairly quickly.

Another thing that works on those button head hex bolts is the short allen keys that fit on your socket set, takes all the spring out of the tool, and repeatedly hit it with a hammer while applying force on the socket bar."


Noel,

Those are all good suggestions, but sometimes they just don't work. :-(
I tried them all (except the oxy) on the bolts holding the right footplate to the bike so I could replace the rear brake switch.  2 of the 3 rounded the socket and I ended up drilling and replacing them.  Took me 3 hrs to complete a (should have been) 5 min job.

Arnie

tmkaos

Cheers guys, I tried all of those tricks yesterday apart from heat, I have no oxy set at home. That's why the head on that one I'm pointing to is a bit shiny from multiple love taps from a hammer..  :dash2:

If the penetration oil doesn't work I might drill the centre out and try a small Ezy-out..

That yamaha factory thread lock has some bloody grip doesn't it? Came across the same stuff on the capscrews holding the rotors onto the front wheel.

Cheers,

James
'92 FJ1200 - '07 to present
'83 VF750S Sabre - '04 - '07
'87 VT250FG - '94 - '98

andyb

Heat is the answer.  Doesn't need to be oxy hot, or even map hot.  Propane or butane is fine.  A really good heat gun could maybe even swing it (wouldn't know, don't own one).  Heat it up like you mean it, and the threadlock turns to dust.

My rule of thumb is I don't drill anything unless I can get it clamped in a vise and ensure things are dead square before removing metal.  Means I reach for a torch pretty regularly, but I've stopped screwing things up nearly as bad as I once did.


Pat Conlon

Not uncommon ......Soak 'em, heat 'em and Drill a hole in them and use a easy out
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

Thmsdoyle

Put a little heat to the bolts with a little propane torch. Then use a chisel and your favorite hammer. Go straight into the bolt head with chisel and give it a good wrap a couple times. Enough to put a groove on one side of the bolt head. Then if you have a dull chisel use it, place dull chesil at a 30 to 45 degree angle on bolt head groove. Give it a good wrap several times to see If that helps loosen the bolts. Works 80% of the time for me.
Tommy D.

FJSpringy

lol I only have access to propane, which is probaly a good thing  :good2:

thats enough heat got get most things warm enough to soak up some wd40 as it cools.

I have kleptomania,
but when it gets bad,
I take something for it.

********************

92 FJ1200

oldktmdude

  Another good way of heating is by welding a nut or short bolt to the head of the bolt your'e trying to loosen. Using a small gauge welding electrode makes the job a lot easier. I would also use a stainless steel electrode, as this gives a stronger weld for its size compared to mild steel.    Pete.
1985 FJ1100 x2 (1 sold)
2009 TDM 900
1980 Kawasaki Z1R Mk11 (sold and still regretting it)
1979 Kawasaki Z650 (sold)
1985 Suzuki GSXR 400 x2 (next project)
2001 KTM 520 exc (sold)
2004 GasGas Ec300
1981 Honda CB 900 F (sold)
1989 Kawasaki GPX 600 Adventure

ribbert

Quote from: FJSpringy on November 18, 2012, 04:05:33 PM
lol I only have access to propane, which is probaly a good thing  :good2:

thats enough heat got get most things warm enough to soak up some wd40 as it cools.



Propane unfortunately is not hot enough or fast enough and the heat dissipates into the surrounding metal at the much the same rate as it goes into the bolt.

The idea is to heat the bolt at a much faster rate than the surrounding metal causing it to expand then contract as it cools, breaking the lock but it only works with the serious sort of heat you get with oxy.

I have tried a propane torch in the field and found it to be about as effective as a magnifying glass in the sun for this purpose.

Noel

"Tell a wise man something he doesn't know and he'll thank you, tell a fool something he doesn't know and he'll abuse you"

FJmonkey

Quote from: ribbert on November 18, 2012, 05:31:17 PM
Quote from: FJSpringy on November 18, 2012, 04:05:33 PM
lol I only have access to propane, which is probaly a good thing  :good2:

thats enough heat got get most things warm enough to soak up some wd40 as it cools.



Propane unfortunately is not hot enough or fast enough and the heat dissipates into the surrounding metal at the much the same rate as it goes into the bolt.

The idea is to heat the bolt at a much faster rate than the surrounding metal causing it to expand then contract as it cools, breaking the lock but it only works with the serious sort of heat you get with oxy.

I have tried a propane torch in the field and found it to be about as effective as a magnifying glass in the sun for this purpose.

Noel
If you are just fighting the thread lock then any heat will help soften it. Impact drivers/guns are my first choice and have yet to let me down get stubborn stuff loose.
The glass is not half full, it was engineered with a 2X safety factor.

'86 Ambulance - Bent frame, cracked case, due for an overhaul
'89 Stormy Blue - Suits my Dark Side

tmkaos

I don't have access to any heat source at home, so I'll rely on my proper engineering skills (NZ Certificate in Beating and Bashing, Level 4) No seriously, I'll get it out. Remove the head, drill the bolt and try an Ezy-out. If the thread gets damaged I'll helicoil it. I'm confident enough in my manual dexterity that I can drill a hole straight. It's what I do all day, after all. This is what i run at work, a Haas VF3 milling machine with an optional 4th axis - set up at the moment, I'm making cutterheads for sawmills at the moment.


So while it was running this morning I cleaned up the sprocket cover and pulled apart the clutch slave and cleaned that out.


Anybody know the reason for the steel insert on the inside of the sprocket cover? my best guess is either to stop a runaway sprocket chewing out thru the cover into my foot, or some sort of vibration damper.

I did rebuild this slave about 5000 km ago so it looks ok. Swiped the bore and piston with some 800grit, cleaned the seals back out and reassembled, good to go.

I also pulled the rear caliper apart. Holy jesus those pistons where stuck in there good. The outer piston on the side where the brake line goes in was so solid I had to bolt it to my bench, and get a grease nipple and use our portable hypraulic unit to get it out. Took 150PSI on the guage before it moved.

Seals were full of shit, pistons had a thick build up of crunk. I imagine my rear brake is going to feel a bit better now.

'92 FJ1200 - '07 to present
'83 VF750S Sabre - '04 - '07
'87 VT250FG - '94 - '98

FJSpringy

Quote from: ribbert on November 18, 2012, 05:31:17 PM
Quote from: FJSpringy on November 18, 2012, 04:05:33 PM
lol I only have access to propane, which is probaly a good thing  :good2:

thats enough heat got get most things warm enough to soak up some wd40 as it cools.



Propane unfortunately is not hot enough or fast enough and the heat dissipates into the surrounding metal at the much the same rate as it goes into the bolt.

The idea is to heat the bolt at a much faster rate than the surrounding metal causing it to expand then contract as it cools, breaking the lock but it only works with the serious sort of heat you get with oxy.

I have tried a propane torch in the field and found it to be about as effective as a magnifying glass in the sun for this purpose.

Noel




Noel,

NSW propane kicks Victroian propane's ass any day of the week  :rofl2: :rofl2: :rofl2:

but when its all you got its all you got :) and so far it's worked for me :good2:


Regards,
Dave
I have kleptomania,
but when it gets bad,
I take something for it.

********************

92 FJ1200

tmkaos

Another hour or so after work today..  Sorry if this is boring you all stupid but it's as much to keep me going than anything else..  :good2:

Rear wheel out..


Removed the dog-bones and lower suspension shock joint assembly. There appears to be some sort of attachment or adjustment through on the far left that goes through to the bottom of motor - it's so crusty under there it's hard to say..You can see it just beside the chain.  Anybody confirm or deny that?


Swing arm and chain out. I cleaned the swing arm bearings out about 1000km ago so it was good to see all the grease still fresh and clean in there. I'll take it all into work and clean it all back out again though.


Front engine mounts removed. Have to service these while they are out. I'll add in the grease nipples while I'm there. She's a bit vibratey around 3000rpm so this should fix that.


Those frozen capscrews aren't shifting after some more beating and CRC so it's on to plan B, Ezy-out.

'92 FJ1200 - '07 to present
'83 VF750S Sabre - '04 - '07
'87 VT250FG - '94 - '98

RichBaker

Quote from: tmkaos on November 18, 2012, 12:01:12 PM
Cheers guys, I tried all of those tricks yesterday apart from heat, I have no oxy set at home. That's why the head on that one I'm pointing to is a bit shiny from multiple love taps from a hammer..  :dash2:

If the penetration oil doesn't work I might drill the centre out and try a small Ezy-out..

That yamaha factory thread lock has some bloody grip doesn't it? Came across the same stuff on the capscrews holding the rotors onto the front wheel.

Cheers,

James

Get some left-hand drill bits, lots of times, the bolt will unscrew itself as you're drilling it.
Rich Baker - NRA Life, AZCDL, Trail Riders of S. AZ. , AMA Life, BRC, HEAT Dirt Riders, SAMA....
Tennessee Squire
90 FJ1200, 03 WR450F ;8^P

FJSpringy

Quote from: tmkaos on November 18, 2012, 11:09:16 PM
Sorry if this is boring you all stupid but it's as much to keep me going than anything else..  :good2:

mate we have all been through this and to be honest I look forward to seeing what your doing, keep up the pictures and the words.   :yahoo:
I have kleptomania,
but when it gets bad,
I take something for it.

********************

92 FJ1200