next »

[fintip]

 

You guys may remember that amazing deal I found on a beautiful FJ with great cosmetics in good running order for an amazing price last fall.  <--sarcastic face

(if you want the short version, scroll to the bottom.)

Well, instead of selling it to pay back the loan I took from a friend, I just worked hard and made some extra cash and paid him back on time and figured I'd get to the back later. (Lots of life stuff. You all know how it is.)

So the weather has finally been clearing up enough, and my life schedule has been clearing up enough, so I decided to get to working on this thing. Should just be a bad gasket, a clutch slave, and maybe a leaky petcock, and blam! should be a fine bike. (Lots of other details, but it should be good enough to ride around at that point.)

So I did the clutch slave with a generous gift from Fred of his old clutch slave, formerly removed while working for prevantative maintenance. Pressure bled it, and while I haven't turned the bike on on account of there being no oil, the clutch does engage and allow me to move the bike when in gear, so for now, good enough.

So there was a leak when I got the bike. It seemed like a mix of gas and oil. Given the putty oozing out of the clutch cover, I assumed he tried to skip buying a clutch cover gasket and that was the cause of the leak. As I am undoing the screws on the clutch cover to replace the gasket, razor blades ready to clean it, I realize something... There's a crack. 





Right side lay down, put the brake lever through it. He told me when he sold it to me that he had had it replaced once, so this is the second time it went through. So sad what happened to this bike... It was obviously beautiful when he got it for his stepson, and him and his son fucking trashed it. I hated him enough when I met him for being a lying douchebag, but I kind of hate him more for being so abusive to the bike... especially all at his age. Jesus.

Whatever. Stick that aside for now. Question is: This is cast aluminum, which isn't a great weld candidate... But since it's non-weight bearing, would a weld hold here ok? The gasket looks brand new, though, so I guess he just put a bunch of extra putty because he thought he needed it... And the leak was really coming from that crack.



Anyways. The bike sounded awesome when he revved it up and had it sitting in his garage. That was on account of the Kerker exhaust. I took a closer look the other day and realized it was really just Kerker baffles--the collector box and headers were stock Yamaha. Decided I would take the cans off. The left side had seen a more serious lay down drunk than the right side, though, and so aside from the scrapes, it also had its mount snap and was being hung by a metal strap thrown on there. After cutting the strap off and removing the baffle and pipe from the collector, I notice something else... the lay down punctured the baffle on the inside.





Can I weld the aluminum can, since it doesn't bear weight? Guy at the mexican muffler shop next door within walking distance said he could do both of those welds (maybe I could throw in the clutch cover too) for $75....

Oh, also, the clutch M/C lid had some really funky screw sitting in there when I got it on one side. I pulled that out and got rid of it. I went and bought the correct screw today... And found out that doesn't fit.



Jesus.

What do I do about that? Spare clutch slave lying around, anyone? Will this be my first dabble at tapping?

One more thing, while I was messing around in my parts bin, I went and got the front brake M/C that came with the blue spots I got on craigslist a couple months back and looked at it. Noticed it said radial on it. Does this mean it's incompatible with my bike, or did I seriously score?




One last question:

The gauges are still awesome, so I'd like to swap those into mine. But I want to show the correct mileage. Can anyone here share the secret of manually adjusting the odometer? (Rare case of wanting to increase the mileage rather than lower it, haha. Though I guess I will want to do the reverse to the other one that I swap in, if I do swap it in instead of just replacing it with some fancy new digital thing and go with a naked look...).

SHORT VERSION:

1. Can I have a clutch cover plate welded, even though it's cast aluminum, since it doesn't bear weight?
2. Can I have a cast aluminum exhaust likewise welded, or otherwise salvaged?
3. Does a radial M/C off of a modern R6 work with our bikes?
4. Clutch M/C had one of the holes botched, proper screw no longer fits in it, what should I do about that?
5. I want to swap the gauges between the two FJ's. How do I tamper with the odometer and adjust the reading?

[aviationfred]

I hope this helps


1. Can I have a clutch cover plate welded, even though it's cast aluminum, since it doesn't bear weight?       Be prepared to need another clutch cover.
It may be worth a shot to try welding it. It is pretty much headed to the circular file any way. If the weld holds, great, file the weld down and paint. If it does not, you were already prepared to need another one.

2. Can I have a cast aluminum exhaust likewise welded, or otherwise salvaged?    This should be easier to weld as the cans should be extruded aluminum, not cast, and the hole is not in the line of sight.

3. Does a radial M/C off of a modern R6 work with our bikes?     It should work just fine. The mention of not using the radial blue spots refers to the actual calipers.

4. Clutch M/C had one of the holes botched, proper screw no longer fits in it, what should I do about that?    Try and tap the hole with the correct thread pitch. Don't be surprised if the new screw will not hold torque. You have a few options with clutch masters from a few other bikes. Mostly Honda. VFR800, Goldwings, ST1100, for a sort of match to the R6 brake master, try this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Honda-VTR-1000-Superhawk-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-/281270646091?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417d09754b&vxp=mtr

5. I want to swap the gauges between the two FJ's. How do I tamper with the odometer and adjust the reading?    I have no knowledge of trying this.

Fred

[fintip]

Thanks for all that.

1. Can I just bolt the new master cylinder on, then?

2. As far as welding... Would I be better off with something like bondo? Some other sealing option?

3. If anyone has a parts bike and is willing to part with a clutch cover, let me know... Maybe skymasteres is willing to let me buy his off his exploded engine?

4. figuring I'd go up to the size 40 jets that Yamaha wasn't allowed to use in the US.

http://rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Carb%3APilotjet

Is it as simple as just swapping that out? No other adjustments needed? No other jets should be changed to match them? Anything I should know? Should I go ahead and raise the needles and switch to pods while I'm at it?

Aaaaand more questions!

5. Front fender transplants? What are the known options?

[FJmonkey]

5. Front fender transplants? What are the known options?

I am expecting delivery of a Bandit front fender that should be nearly bolt on. Another member here has already installed one. It is a one piece so no tabs to break off.... I will post up when I install it and share any fabrication details that might be required.

[JCainFJ]

SHORT VERSION:

1. Can I have a clutch cover plate welded, even though it's cast aluminum, since it doesn't bear weight?
2. Can I have a cast aluminum exhaust likewise welded, or otherwise salvaged?
3. Does a radial M/C off of a modern R6 work with our bikes?
4. Clutch M/C had one of the holes botched, proper screw no longer fits in it, what should I do about that?
5. I want to swap the gauges between the two FJ's. How do I tamper with the odometer and adjust the reading?

1.   No, don't weld it. Repair that crack with J-B Weld epoxy. Take the clutch cover apart and clean the cracked cover to remove the oil. Carb cleaner will work for this. Get the area around the crack on the inside of the cover sand blasted or aluminum oxide blasted. Apply the J-B Weld to the crack area on the inside of the cover (so it does not show) let it sit overnight to cure. Then clean and paint the outside of the cover and your done. Get a new gasket and do not use any silicone or RTV when you put it back together.
2.   I would repair that with some high temp epoxy muffler patch.
3.   Yes, the R6 M/C will work fine.
4.   You can drill the hole deeper re-tap the threads and use a longer screw. Put some anti-seize on the screws so they are easy to remove.
5.   You can keep the speedo and swap the gauge cluster.  The speedo is a separate part and can be removed from gauge cluster.

[fintip]

Looking forward to your report monkey. I got a slightly oversized tire free when I was apprenticing at that mechanic shop, and it was just large enough diameter to partially melt the fender as it scraped when the wind would blow it down driving. I'll post a pic to show what I mean... Sad day, though. 

JCain, that's some good info. On the clutch cover, would I be safe hammering it back into place before the welding? I probably won't paint it. The crack is awfully hard to see, because it's smallish anyways and right behind the brake lever.

Would that muffler epoxy stuff really hold on here? I've never used it, but I never had faith in that stuff at those temps. Any specific product recommendation? Considerations on epoxy vs welding extruded aluminum here? Obviously the epoxy will be cheaper, but I just want to know for sure what will absolutely hold and not give me problems (and I'm not sure that either will, as aluminum welding is a bitch from what I understand). Maybe this stuff?

Are you telling me I can swap the odometers between the gauge clusters? That's pretty awesome. Though, I didn't have a speedo cable for about 1500 miles on mine, and I always wanted to add that back in at some point. Detail, though, this pretty much solves that problem. Is it not very difficult? Just taking things apart and putting them back together?

Need grips. Anyone have advice on buying grips?

Was vaguely considering these. But then I saw that RPM sells these, and I guess those are cheap enough and it's nice to support RPM when I can. How long can I expect the foam to last before it starts falling apart? Anyone else using foam grips?
.

[racerrad8]

It is always better to weld over epoxy, welding is permanent, epoxy isn't. I heli-arc of the cover a little sanding & paint and it is fixed forever. That is my opinion at least.

Same on the muffler, a small patch can be welded over the hole.

The steel tab can be welded back onto the bracket.

It might be best to heli-coil the damaged bolt hole.

Yes, you can pull for speedo out and exchange it in the cluster.

Grips; I sell a ton of the foam every year. I personally get a year out of mine before the portion where I squeeze my thumb wears through.

Randy - RPM

[fintip]

Thanks for the advice. Just a matter of cost-value analysis now. Putty is tempting because it is cheap and easy and quick. I don't know anyone who does heli-arc, I'm sure it will cost more, and I have to go out and find them and bring it to them. Tips on where to find these people? I'm tempted to just try the epoxy just to have some experience and an opinion on the topic; it's not that expensive, or hard to then later do the weld, if it doesn't hold up to par.

Could I just get a quick confirm on bumping up to #40 jets? Anything I should be concerned about doing that? Nice thing about having two sets of these carbs, I can rebuild the ones on FJ #2 and upgrade them and everything, and then just put them in my bike and swap in my never-touched but problem-free-thus-far carbs to that FJ. Haven't been looking forward to the removal/reassembly process, pulling carbs and putting them back can be a bitch on some bikes. I'll have to go look up the trick to pull them out again--unbolt the subframe while it's on the center stand, right?

"For reference, I'm running stock exhaust, airbox with UNI replacement filter and a DJ kit with 110 mains, 144 air pilot, and needle on groove 1.5. I typically get high 40s mileage but I don't bother tracking it since that's the price of fun.

DavidR"

Is it worth changing to pods just to ease the install/removal of carbs, if nothing else? (Are those the stock jetting, or did he adjust those? Is it worth adjusting to that?)

[racerrad8]

"For reference, I'm running stock exhaust, airbox with UNI replacement filter and a DJ kit with 110 mains, 144 air pilot, and needle on groove 1.5. I typically get high 40s mileage but I don't bother tracking it since that's the price of fun.

DavidR"

(Are those the stock jetting, or did he adjust those? Is it worth adjusting to that?)

Those are a DJ kit jetting & needles (see above)

Randy - RPM

[Arnie]

Advantage of the UNI dual pods like Randy sells are:
Ease of removal of the carbs
Better airflow at mid to high revs
Extra storage space where the airbox was
Possibly better filtering
Glorious sound

Dis-advantage is slightly less low-speed torque. (by seat of pants measurement)

[ribbert]

Advantage of the UNI dual pods like Randy sells are:
Ease of removal of the carbs
Better airflow at mid to high revs
Extra storage space where the airbox was
Possibly better filtering
Glorious sound

Dis-advantage is slightly less low-speed torque. (by seat of pants measurement)

I love that induction noise. In fact I would have them for that reason alone. Hang on, that is the reason I have them.

I once drive a mini (70's version) with the velocity stacks for the Weber poking through a hole in the firewall, at idle, it would spit fuel onto you hand resting on the gear stick. These days it would no doubt be required to have a "NO SMOKING" sign in it.

The noise was anything but glorious.

Noel

[aviationfred]

Kyle, as for finding someone to Heli-arc the clutch cover for you. I would suggest going to one of the Non- OEM motorcycle mechanic shops and ask where they get their Heli-arc needs taken care of.

I needed the caliper torque arm shortened when I did the GSXR wheel mod, this is exactly how I found a welder. Cost me a total of $20.00

Fred

[JCainFJ]

JCain, that's some good info. On the clutch cover, would I be safe hammering it back into place before the welding? I probably won't paint it. The crack is awfully hard to see, because it's smallish anyways and right behind the brake lever.

 I have used a c-clamp to push the clutch cover back into place with a rubber pad on the outside surface to keep from marring the finish.


Would that muffler epoxy stuff really hold on here? I've never used it, but I never had faith in that stuff at those temps. Any specific product recommendation? Considerations on epoxy vs welding extruded aluminum here? Obviously the epoxy will be cheaper, but I just want to know for sure what will absolutely hold and not give me problems (and I'm not sure that either will, as aluminum welding is a bitch from what I understand). Maybe this stuff?

 Yes, that is the stuff to use. I have had it work for years.

 Randy makes a valid point about welding these parts. The problem for most of us is finding a "good" welder. I've seen my fair share of warped (by a bad weld) engine covers. If you find a good welder, buy him beer and remember his birthday!

Are you telling me I can swap the odometers between the gauge clusters? That's pretty awesome. Though, I didn't have a speedo cable for about 1500 miles on mine, and I always wanted to add that back in at some point. Detail, though, this pretty much solves that problem. Is it not very difficult? Just taking things apart and putting them back together?

You can swap over the whole speedo unit, it is just bolted in place. What is wrong with the old gauge cluster?

[fintip]

You can swap over the whole speedo unit, it is just bolted in place. What is wrong with the old gauge cluster?

The speedo is jerky, the tach doesn't really work (though on acceleration half-works), and the fuel gauge never was worth a damn, plus the plastic shell has hairline fractures. I'd really like to have the entire new gauge set (I at least know the tach works and the shell is prettier, haven't gotten to really test the speedo or fuel gauge on it yet, but they are probably better than mine.)

[JCainFJ]

 If you have two gauge clusters you should be able to mix and match and end up with one that looks good and works well.
 A fresh speedo cable with fresh lube can help with the jerky speedo and some times the intermittent tack and fuel gauge can be fixed by servicing the electrical system. Make sure the main ground is clean and tight. It is a ring termanal and it attaches to the ignition coil mount area.