Oooooh, oooooh, oooooh...this is turning into an oil thread!

Mr. Kotter, Mr Kotter, Mr. Kotter....

 

Partszilla, Chaparral, etc....I've had several times where I have placed an order, they charge my card then, days later, they inform me that, oops, they don't have it in stock and it's on back order.....meantime they have my money while I wait, sometimes months for the part to come in.
I understand it from their view point, they don't want to order something from Japan unless they have cash in hand. When I'm informed that the part is on back order, they always give me the option to cancel the order.

RPM does not work that way. If you order a part, it's in stock, you pay and it ships....if it's not in stock, you can't order it, you can be put on a waiting list.
Robert does a fine job staying on top of his inventory and promptly shipping.
We are fortunate to have RPM.

Many here have learned that these places don't carry inventory. They take your order, then place an order to get your part. It is wise to call and verify the part(s) are in stock and can ship when you order. Check with RPM as well, I get all my FJ parts from Randy and sons at RPM. 

I haven't changed the oil on this bike yet, but I want to say that PO was using 10w40. I'm going to move forward with swapping the copper washers first.

Quote from: 86FJNJ on Today at 07:38:12 AMWhat weight oil are you running and is it conventional or synthetic? Just curious because if you are running 10-40 synthetic I wonder if 20-50 conventional would reduce the leak

86FJN,

Maybe so; synthetic oil is a smaller molecule than dino oil.  People who switch to synthetic oil often have a few leaks they never had before.  Once you seal up these new leaks, though, the machinery will last much longer than it would on new dino oil every few months.  Those l-o-n-g powertrain warrantees on new vehicles come from using synthetic lubes, not from better designs of the machinery. Usually you will get better gas mileage with synthetic oil, too.

What weight oil are you running and is it conventional or synthetic? Just curious because if you are running 10-40 synthetic I wonder if 20-50 conventional would reduce the leak

Will definitely try this Red, you're the man!

Johnny,
Clean off all the oil, and spray the area with aerosol body powder.  When you start the engine, the dry powder will get dark first where the oil comes from. Shut down the engine, before the oil goes everywhere. Then you will know exactly what needs fixin'.   

Right on Robert thank you sir!

The right two studs are oil galleys they are sealed at the nut with copper washers found here https://www.rpmracingca.com/proddetail.asp?prod=90201-10128

If is leaking between the head and the barrels then it is the dowels seals and the head will have to be removed to replace. We have those in stock as well.