Excellent Tim! She is a beauty. Did you use the FJR clutch master?
I sure like mine. That adjustable lever is cool beans.

On your old FJ clutch slave, did you do an autopsy? Were your walls pitted?

We are long long over due for a ride! Perhaps Willits?

Cheers lad

Paddy.

Quick update....    The clutch is perfect.

Yesterday (Sunday), I decided to ride the FJ North up Hwy 1 towards Big Sur.  There have been a few slides that caused the road to be closed for the last few years. You can no longer drive from Morro Bay through to Carmel. These are serious slides that require the State to rebuild using tunnels and bridges.

The result is that the typical tourist traffic is way, way down.  Yesterday, I rode for 1.5 hours North all the way to the closure and I had Hwy 1 virtually to myself.  When I did come up on traffic it was a single vehicle and I had no problems making a quick pass.  Yesterday was sunny, mild temps, clean road and very little traffic - miracle conditions - "Goldilocks" stuff to say the least. 

I was thoroughly enjoying myself and feeling a lot of gratitude for the opportunity and the moment when it dawned on me....  My clutch is perfect right now.  I was grabbing downshifts for decreasing radius cut-back corners and the clutch and engine braking were functioning better than it ever has.  I used to put up with a soft lever and less than full disengagement - this meant hard shifts and jerky downshifts as well as difficulty finding neutral. My conclusion is that the clutch system was never completely bled of air.  It wasn't giving up any more bubbles but there was still air in the system.

I am giving most of the credit to the new Oberon Clutch Slave (for bleeding more easily and completely compared to the stock unit) but I have to mention the Barnett Coil Spring plate that was also newly added.  Bottom line; this clutch set up is fantastic!

 

Thank you both! I will keep all that in mind. I actually have an aftermarket shock, so I'll see what I can do with it.
I have amended the signature as suggested.

Cheers guys 

The washers I think you are talking about are a protector for the seal. Should go seal, washer, circlip.

The damper rods on my 84 fj1100 were modified years ago when the previous owner had gold valves installed. The round discs that had the D shaped hole in the center (to accept the damping adjuster shaft) and three slots were removed. They worked fine with the gold valves but now that I have installed rpm fork valves they sre a problem. If anyone has a set of damper rods I would like to buy them.

Quote from: MTLZD on Yesterday at 06:20:14 AMHi all,

I'm trying to change the geometry a little bit to make the bike slightly more eager to change direction. I will drop the forks for about 1.2cm, that's all that the slip-on risers will allow before they touch, and that's what has worked in the past for me. I'm also thinking about putting a spacer under the rear shock, so I want to see if anyone has done it before I go ahead and figure it out ony own.

Any land all suggestions welcome!

Not sure how you would fit a spacer.

As suggested you can get length adjustable shock, but you can also get a shock with a longer thread for the lower eye, YSS do one but sounds like you want to do it a bit cheaper, maybe your existing shock has a removable eye you could replace.

Good Luck

I don't have a Yamaha Factory Service Manual, perhaps Robert can help?

Please go to your profile and put into your signature line that you have a 1987 FJ1200. That info will then automatically appear in your posts, you won't have to remind us. That info will help us, help you.

Unlike the '88 and later FJ's that use the dog bone style of swingarm linkage, your '87 does not have that, so the only way I'm aware of raising your rear end height is by using a longer shock. Several aftermarket shock manufacturers have a threaded adjustable shaft on their shocks for this purpose.

You could convert your linkage over to the '88-95 FJ dog bone linkage but that's a lot of work and seeing that you probably need to replace your weak sauce oem shock anyway, it's easier to just get an adjustable length shock to begin with...

Your instincts are spot on, kudos.
IMHO one of the best improvements in FJ handling comes from getting more weight on that front tire.

Cheers

Pat

I completely stripped down my carbs from my '91 3CV for cleaning, I took photos along the way, now when I've come to rebuild them I've found that these photos have somehow been deleted and cant be restored.

Does anyone on here have pics of how the throttle body shafts go back together?  I can sort the butterflies but I'm not sure of where/what order the washers go exactly.  I've tried looking online for exploded diagrams but cant find any that show this part broken down, and I don't really want to take the carbs off my other FJ to strip them to see where everything goes.