Undo the two right side valve cover bolts, valve hike holding your fingers over them. Unhook the spark plug wires, crank until there is oil coming from the two valve cover bolt holes. Let sit for 5 minutes, repeat once, or twice. Then the head is primed and ready to rock.

Shawn
I always get worried when I read these sorts of stories.
Have you checked that the orifice in the master cylinder is completely open when the clutch is engaged. (Hand off the lever.)
With the cap removed from the master cylinder reservoir, do you see a small quantity of fluid spurt from the orifice when you activate the lever? (Be careful)
With the slave cylinder removed, you should be able the push the piston back without releasing the bleed nipple. The fluid should return to the reservoir.
If not, you have a problem.

The following link is to an article I submitted in 2018.

http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=17884.0

Personally, I always add the brake fluid after the slave cylinder has been installed.

If you can not push the cylinder back without releasing the bleed nipple, you may have overfilled the system.
Try removing the reservoir cap and pushing the piston back. Again, be careful.
The coil spring between the slave cylinder base and the piston is to keep the piston against the push rod at all times.
If you do push the piston back, it will return when you release you finger.

I can not stress the importance of the orifice being open on both the clutch and especially the brake Master cylinder when the leaver is released.

Gavin

Thanks to everyone, always a good learning experience, but costly

Could have been worse.

That is exactly what i did about 30years ago when trying to install a brand new clutch slave i tightened the bolt further and further trying to get the slave all the way in then a big bang and brake fluid splashed out .Strange the treads not got stripped but that bike was almost new ...Went down to the dealer and told them and got a new one 
Do it like Pat says with the bleeder open

The very first time I took my clutch slave off to check the seals i couldn't even get the slave back in place because the piston was too far out in the bore. My first instinct was to force it into place by tightening the bolts, but luckily, before i picked up a spanner, I had a re-think.

I think Pat is likely right on the money in that the piston needs to be seated right back in the bore when you bolt the slave back in place, otherwise you’re just trying to separate the clutch plates too far when you’re pulling the clutch lever in.

You guys are going to get me killed ! 

But NOS sure would be fun for the one or two rides . Ya Ya that what Ill tell the wife, Its just a test 

Lets get it up and running first. 

But i would like to know if I should do something to lube the top end before i try to start it.
I must be pretty dry after sitting all these years and it will take time to get oil up to the cams
and valves. especially if it doesn't start right away.
In a car engine you pull the distributor and spin the oil pump to prime it till you have pressure .
I was going to take the valve cover off to look at the cams for part numbers stock vs after market ?
Also pour oil on the lobes.


Bob 

With as far as the rear tire is back, I’ll bet a 2 or 2.5# bottle fits without trying - and a 5 # might fit!

Thanks Pat, I'll give it a try tomorrow and see where we end up from there. Appreciate the help!

The 1st parts from my theft recovered FJ for sale.

1; 50mm Fork extentions for Upside Down Fork conversions. These were designed by Dan McCoy (giantkiller). I have another set on Casper that I have used for 3 years. This should work with any brand of 50mm inverted forks.

2; 50mm dia. x 70mm rise Tarozzi clip on handle bars.

$175.00 + shipping


Fred

Hi Shawn, it sounds like you are installing the slave with the piston in the out (extended) position…it’s needs to be retracted, or in the in position…
Take the slave off, leave the line connected, open bleeder port, with your thumb, push in the slave piston (be ready…fluid is gonna squirt out of the bleeder) hold piston in while closing bleeder port. The piston should stay in (retracted) when the port is closed.
Don’t touch the lever.
Reinstall the slave, the piston should still be fully retracted.

Now pump the lever…the master should now send fluid down to the slave to push the piston out against the clutch rod.