Nancy and I are in.... 12 thru 18

Hello all. I plan on joining about mid week. Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Best wishes.
Kurt

Yes, we're gathering again for Boone 2026
I have reservation at the Boone KOA for May 11 to May 18

Hey folks, as you may have noticed, we are getting a lot of Russian spam in this section of the forum.
For some reason, they just appear in this Dirt Bike/Dual Sport section....very strange.

I try and check it twice daily, I immediately ban the poster and delete the post.

If you happen to see one here...for God's sake don't open any of the links. No telling what cooties you'll catch...

Cheers lads.....Now back to your regularly scheduled program... 

Thanks Billy.

This topic has been moved to Parts Wanted.

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21704.0

Still available new. https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-fj1200-1988-3cv1-england-283cv310e1_model37555/starter-cable-assy_1tx2633000/

Posted in wrong section 

Should be WANTED FJ1200 choke starter cable.

If moderator can move to PARTS WANTED, that would be great.

Happy to help

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 10, 2026, 03:18:33 PM

Quote from: Warp84 on March 10, 2026, 12:22:32 PMDo you have a testing procedure I can run through on it?

There are 2 vacuum lines on our Early FJ's. Cylinder #1 port vacuum line goes to the petcock and cylinder #2 port goes down to the ignition box. The purpose of the #2 vacuum line is to advance the ignition timing *upon closed throttle* (for emission reasons)  as discussed here:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

On the early FJ's ('84-87) the vacuum diaphragm is internal in the TCI ignition box and is non serviceable, non replaceable and the later '88-95 FJ's have the vacuum advance as a stand alone module, separate from the DCI ignition box. As our bikes age, this diaphragm can become cracked, thus leaking vacuum...causing a hanging high idle, what Robert was referring to....

How to test? We call this the suck test. Disconnect the vacuum line at the #2 intake port, clean the end, and suck on the hose. Put your tongue over the end of the hose to hold the hose under vacuum. The vacuum hose should stay under vacuum...if it bleeds off or if you can draw air through the hose, either the ignition box diaphragm is leaking or your hose is leaking. The hose replacement is easy, not so much the ignition box internal diaphragm.

Solution: Cap off the #2 intake port, use the heavy rubber oem Yamaha vacuum caps. It's hot in this area in front of the heat shield.
As discussed above there will be no performance loss with this vacuum feature disconnected.

Cheers....hope this helps.

Pat

Pat,

Low and behold that was part of the issue. The Diaphragm in the DCI had failed, as instructed, I put a cap over the vacuum nipple.  A bit more fiddling with the needles and it no longer stops at 4k rpm either. Both on centerstand and under power. Thanks to you and Robert for your input and solving the vacuum leak.