Quote from: pdxfj on Yesterday at 09:01:52 AM

Hope to see you there! 

Quote from: MarioR on Yesterday at 08:31:53 AM

Quote from: Gearbox Paul on Yesterday at 07:12:44 AMAfter being away for a few months, I went back to the bike, fixed a number of issues, added missing bits and pieces, and put it back together.  I think it looks pretty good.  Still chasing a couple of minor electrical gremlins.  Applied for collector status here in British Columbia, Canada which will allow me to license and insure the bike for a very low price.  Can't wait to get that FJ on the road. 

Very nice example of 1100.
Clean and unmolested.

It's not completely unmolested.  The engine has a 77mm overbore piston kit.  Rest of bike is stock as far as I know.

The other thing you can do is reset the tripometer every fill up......

Jindy rally done.

Great to catch up with everyone.

A magic ride day out to Adaminaby and Kiandra. The weather was superb. Roads excellent.

Mr Plod was absent so we could take advantage of the beautiful alpine roads.

Went via Bermie so was able to hook up with Pete and Alf on the way.

Discussion at dinner for next years rally, probably northern NSW or southern QLD.

February is a bad time of year to have the rally as the weather is very changeable, so we had a wet arrival and departure. Hopefully it will be late March.

On departure the highway out was closed due to a knarly accident, so my poor red/silver had to cope with 70+ks of gravel road. Luckily we beat the rain for all three dirt sections

Before you start....Get a new gasket from RPM, if you have it on hand, you won't need it...but if you don't...you will.

Drain your tank. Remove the tank

Unplug and Remove the float assembly out of the tank.

Plug in the float assembly back into your wiring harness.

Turn the key on.

Now, as you *slowly*carefully* move the arm on the float...your gas gauge needle should rise and fall. Check for full sweep of the gas gauge needle. Full to empty.

Perhaps you have a leaking float that does not fully allow the float to rise up to the top fuel level? The weight of fuel in the float is keeping it down. If so, drain and seal the float.

To calibrate the float, bend the arm as needed.
Fill your tank with 2.5 gallons of fuel, approx. 1/2 tank.
Check where your gauge needle points...should be 1/2 tank.

If it's over the 1/2 mark, it reads too high...your float sits too high...drain your tank, remove the float and bend the float arm up...it will lower the needle.
Vice versa
If the gas gauge needle reads too low, bend the float arm down.

Remember how the float assembly is installed, bottom of the tank, so bend the arm the right way....dont ask me how I know this....

Take some lacquer thinner/ carb cleaner and clean the varnish off the rheostat switch.

Cheers

Pat


 

Quote from: red on Yesterday at 01:10:12 PMWarp84,
Fuel meter issues can be caused by dirty, flaky grounds. You want shiny metal secured to shiny metal, at all grounding points. Dull metal is corroded metal. You might even consider running a dedicated ground wire to the sender unit, and another to the (several) ground connections near the fuel gauge on the instrument panel. This wire would aid, but not replace the stock OEM wiring.
That aside, see if you can snake a wire down into the tank, and physically lift the sender's float gently higher. A borescope is a good tool to use, while doing this. You can get an illuminated borescope that plugs into any phone or laptop from sellers like Amazon, for cheap. Tape the end of the borescope to a bendable wire to guide the end inside the tank.
You will be amazed at all the stuff you will find inside your walls and car doors. 
HTH.
.

I'll do a double check of the grounds, like you suggest. We do have a borescope on hand actually. A reasonably nice one. I'll make a point of shoving that into the tank and seeing what mysteries await.

Warp84,
Fuel meter issues can be caused by dirty, flaky grounds. You want shiny metal secured to shiny metal, at all grounding points. Dull metal is corroded metal. You might even consider running a dedicated ground wire to the sender unit, and another to the (several) ground connections near the fuel gauge on the instrument panel. This wire would aid, but not replace the stock OEM wiring.
That aside, see if you can snake a wire down into the tank, and physically lift the sender's float gently higher. A borescope is a good tool to use, while doing this. You can get an illuminated borescope that plugs into any phone or laptop from sellers like Amazon, for cheap. Tape the end of the borescope to a bendable wire to guide the end inside the tank.
You will be amazed at all the stuff you will find inside your walls and car doors. 
HTH.
.

I'm just a touch South of Erie PA, looking for the fuel meter that goes inside the tank on my 84 Fj1100. OEM part code is 36Y-85752-03-00

Even with the tank filled to the brim with Ethanol free fuel, the needle never gets above half on the gauge. Hopefully there's a way to fix the meter. But having a spare never hurts either.

Welcome on board!

Budget old school method - diesel fuel mix with trans fluid to soak piston/rings prior moving crank, especially bike was sitting long time untouched. Always works......

Enjoy your restoration