Well now that's a puzzle....how many miles are on your engine?
Our starter chains stretch, just a fact of life.

Could you be hearing a clutch plate chatter?
Did you remove the wire snap ring and cushioning spring from your clutch pack so you could convert over to a 7 wide clutch plate set up?
Is the clutch basket secure? No wobble or run out?

Try removing your cam chain tensioner, inspect it, make sure the compression spring has full range of easy motion, if ok, reset it and reinstall it.

That's all I can think of...

Pat

Quote from: 86FJNJ on Today at 07:32:05 AMRed, even with my clamps I still have a leak.

86FJNJ,

Real duct tape (not the cloth crap) is a soft, heavyweight aluminum foil, with an aggressive adhesive.  Cut strips of this tape as wide as the clamp.  Wrap the smaller pipe to make it the same diameter as the other side of the connection. Then wrap the connection with several layers (at least) of the aluminum duct tape.  Install the clamp.  The clamp will crush the aluminum down into any crevices, and should make a good seal.  Tighten the clamp again, after some riding.

HVAC supply houses should have real aluminum duct tape, but call first.  I use that stuff for lots of jobs.

So my 3XW was making a garagarakarakara sound on low rpms which led me to doubt the oil nozzle on the starter as suggested by some previous experiences here and on the xjr forums...

Have adjusted my idling to 1200rpm and I don't hear that sound often

But, for mental safety, Took out the nozzle and found it in pristine condition

No rubbing of the chain on this so far. Some minute manufacturing scratches that can be seen aren't by the chain (different angle)

So...

What else could cause a sound that I can best describe as "garragarr" when the idling is set below 1100RPM or when I'm halfclutching slowly from a stop without revving up much?


Next thing I'm gonna try is to see some other parts suchas the starter one way clutch

 (seems fine though, as when I drive the engine backwards by using the nut on the spark timing pickup side it rotates the starter, but the engine moves smoothly immediately disengaging the starter clutch when moving in the normal direction.)

Well then I tell myself, I'll just live with it... But it bothers me to not know.

I've new cam chain tensioner and guides installed and that didn't change anything.

I also took the clutch out to see if the damping springs behind it were bad, but they seem solid, nothing jittery there.

I'm in the process of checking valve clearances and I have discovered almost all valves clearances are in spec or at most 0.01mm on the loose side..
(on a cold engine, overnight)
Still, im going to do the shims and see if it makes any difference. Then do some carb balancing...

Next I'll try to see if there's some other parts that can potentially cause a rickety rattly feeling at low rpms (I really don't want to open/split the case as a longrride is coming up though)

Any suggestions on what else i can look at (without splitting the case?)

(ready to live with it, but just trying to do some safe easy investigation into this issue)

Red, even with my clamps I still have a leak.

Been cleaning out my rusted stock tank and would like to use it on my bike rather than the 1991 tank.

Not sure what micron the stock Yamaha filter is, anyone know? I'm guessing 40 micron or so.

Has anyone used these Golan fuel filters? I'm thinking to add one after my fuel pump. They are 10 micron filters and have a high flow rate and low pressure drop, made for motorcycle applications. Based on reviews on YouTube and their use in the aerospace industry I don't see any comments about fuel starvation. Seems like it would be a good thing to add to reduce rust from entering my carbs. Have to imagine somebody in this group already tried them.

https://golanproducts.com/product/super-mini-fuel-filter-1-4-barb-fitting/

Quote from: 86FJNJ on Yesterday at 08:58:04 PMThanks for the input. I plan to use some exhaust wrap where my slip ons meet my collector because I have a slight leak even after changing the gasket

86FJNJ,
You can hide the bolt behind the pipe.  The car guys call this gadget an exhaust clamp:

I have a set of these on both of my FJ's.


https://hyperlites.com/

Casper has the smaller set with running lights. The Streetfighter has the larger set with the added turn signal function.

Fred

Quote from: Millietant on July 06, 2025, 06:13:41 PMThe best braking set up I've seen on a FJ Dan, excellent craftsmanship.

Dan does get all the credit for the GSX-R1000 front end mod.
With that said, The radial brakes are incredible. Here is a photo of the tires on Casper after a clean 8 mile run on the Tail of the Dragon. This is a result of phenomenal brakes.


Fred

I had the stock down tubes on the 89 black powder coated. As well as the header of the supertrapp chrome ceramic coated. Both to maybe help the chin spoilers to last a little longer. And because it's supposed to help scavenging. I don't know if it really does. But I figured with both possibilities. It might be worth it.

I did the Swain Tech "White Lightning" coating on my collector box, it seemed to help.

Dan, the 1984/85 FJ's had a double wall header tube with a black chrome finish. They are not stainless.
Be very careful with the black chrome on those tubes, the chrome coat is thin, when scrubbing off the cooked on bugs it's  very easy to rub through the coating. Don't ask how I know this....

Around 12 years ago, while on a FJ West Coast rally, 800 miles from home, my '84 the oem double wall header tube suffered a cracked inner tube. The bike had about 120k miles on it back then....the clanging noise from that broken inner tube was crazy loud....I thought I lost a rod....still that beautiful bike got me home.

After that I converted over to the '86-95 FJ single wall stainless tubes....and yes, I too like shiny things LOL.

Cheers

Pat