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Awesome, thank you! I'll get it taken off and cleaned up to ship out Monday. Send it to your physical address in Oakdale?

Quote from: RPM - Robert on Yesterday at 03:48:04 PMSend me the slider and I can repair the threads.

I have new axles on the shelf

The repair and shipping will probably be cheaper then a replacement and you'll have good threads for the rest of time

Finally had some time to work on the FJ this evening.  Besides cleaning the ignition switch contacts, I polished up the spade connectors in the ignition switch connector.  They looked pretty good after.  For the female spades I took a thin piece of 0.010" flashing and wrapped a piece of sandpaper around it, and was able to get inside the spade.  Fired up to 3500 RPM, I was seeing about 14.24V and at 5500 about 14.4V.  The difference between the sense wire at the VR and the battery was something like 0.2-0.3V, not very steady.  That's a lot better than the 1V it was before.  I've got the VR turned all the way down.

Thanks again mike g!

I am partial to the Continental line. I would recommend the Sport Attack 4's


Fred

Well something interesting was found today...

Last night I wrote an inquiry on Grok AI....

i have a 1989 Fj1200, i was on a trip and noticed my tachometer was at zero. then i started getting rough engine performance and the bike died 5 minutes later. I have 12.8 volts at the battery, i have voltage at all 4 fuses, i have voltage on both sides of the ignition connector, I have voltage on both wires going to the alternator with the key on, the fuel pump runs when i turn the key on and the starter will start the engine normally, The headlight and high beaam are working the instrument lights and front marker lights are working what is not working is the nuetral light the tachometer the front signal lights the horn the clock the rear tail lights the rear brake light the rear signals.. what is causing this electrical trouble
Most likely cause: A blown or faulty "Signals" or accessory/ignition fuse (or a break in the shared power feed wire, often brown), combined with a possible poor ground or connection issue downstream.⁠Fjowners
Your symptoms show a split in the electrical system:

    Working circuits (headlight/high beam, instrument lights, front markers, fuel pump on key-on, starter, voltage at battery/fuses/ignition switch/alternator wires) → Main power, headlight circuit, and starting/ignition power are intact.⁠Justanswer
    Non-working circuits (tach, neutral light, front signals, horn, clock, rear tail/brake lights, rear signals) → These typically share a common fused power feed (often called the "Signals" fuse or similar accessory circuit on FJ1200s) and a brown power wire that branches to the dash/instruments and rear lighting.⁠Vmaxforum

The rough running and sudden death suggest the issue may have started with an intermittent connection or overload that affected ignition/tach signal temporarily (tach gets a pulse from one of the coils). Once power was lost to key accessories, the bike became unrideable.⁠Fjowners
Quick Checks (in order)

    Double-check all fuses, especially the smaller ones in the fuse box (often under the seat or near the battery/cockpit). Look for a "Signals", "Accessory", "Ignition", or similar 10-15A fuse. Even if you see voltage at the fuses, pull and visually inspect/replace them — corrosion or internal failure is common.⁠Fjowners
    Test for power at the affected components:
        Use a multimeter or test light on the brown power wire at the instrument cluster or rear light harness (key on).
        No power there but good at the fuse = broken/chafed brown wire somewhere in the loom (very common on these bikes, especially where it exits the dash or runs under the tank/seat).⁠Vmaxforum
        Check continuity on that wire.
    Grounds — Clean and tighten all major ground points (battery negative, engine/frame grounds, rear light grounds). Poor grounds can cause exactly this kind of partial failure.⁠Fjrowners
    Ignition switch connector — These often overheat/melt/corode on FJ models, causing intermittent or partial power loss. Wiggle it and inspect for heat damage.⁠Fjowners
    Tach-specific — Grey wire from the #2/3 coil for the signal. But since other dash items are out, it's probably the shared power feed.⁠Fjowners

Other Possibilities

    Wiring harness damage (chafing/rubbing, especially on a trip with vibration) — Common culprit for sudden issues.
    Flasher/turn signal relay failure affecting related circuits.
    Less likely: Bad rectifier/regulator or stator (but you have battery voltage and lights working).

Start with fuses + brown wire continuity + grounds. These bikes are known for harness issues and corroded connections after 35+ years. A Haynes or factory service manual with the wiring diagram will help pinpoint the exact fuse and wire colors.⁠Fjowners
If you find the bad fuse or wire, fix the root cause (e.g., repair chafing) to prevent recurrence. Let me know what you find on the voltage tests at the dash/rear lights!


Starting with the first QUICK CHECK.. I pulled the fuses and the very first one I pulled, the 15amp beside the 30 amp was blown.  I had checked all four of them for continuity with the MM (in the box) and they were good. After putting a new spare in all the missing electrics started working. I have not checked the tach yet because the tank is still off but it got a new RPM petcock and filter anyway. I guess the reason for blowing the fuse remains unknown but I will probably put it back together with some silicone tape on the 2 connectors for now and see if the alternator is back or not. Probably a good idea to not stray too far from the garage and see if I blow that 15 amp again..  and make sure I am carrying a spare.

No idea how long those fuses last or have been in the bike but I know I've never changed one before today.

I guess I will know soon enough if that fuse blows again and or if the tach is working or not..

Thanks

Send me the slider and I can repair the threads.

I have new axles on the shelf

The repair and shipping will probably be cheaper then a replacement and you'll have good threads for the rest of time

I'm looking for a left fork lower/slider and front axle for a 1989. My axle and lower are stripped

I'm in CNY, I can pay shipping or meet if somewhat local.

Thank you-Nate

I'm looking for a left fork lower/slider and front axle for a 1989. My axle and lower are stripped

I'm in CNY, I can pay shipping or meet if somewhat local.

Thank you-Nate

Sorry to hear of the passing of your father Randy. My condolences to you and family.

Jake

You'll need to get these repairs made before you can really proceed with diagnosing the issue.

The ignition plug might have enough power to light a test light, but does it have enough to power everything needed to run the bike.