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I, of course...will be there with all the requisite bells on. Quote from: Gearbox Paul on March 07, 2026, 09:43:33 AMQuote from: T Legg on March 06, 2026, 05:26:22 PMI'm glad to hear you have it fixed.Thanks again. I found the circuit diagram in the service manual unnecessarily confusing regarding the wiring around the diode and the clutch switch. I see that you've used white out and redrew some of the wiring lines on your marked diagram to clarify it. I found your version of the electricial circuit much more useful than what is in the service manual.
A good color coded complete wiring schematic really helps. I keep a copy of it in my tool pouch and a picture on my phone. The Yamaha owners manual that comes with the bike has a complete schematic but its point to point not set up like a ladder diaghram also very small and hard to see without a magnifying glass.
Also, the testing information for the side stand relay, on page 6-18 of the service manual, is incorrect. The manual says that the relay contacts should close when the coil is powered up, and open with no power to the coil. That's wrong, the relay contacts are closed (0 ohms) when the coil sees no power, and they open when the coil is powered up.
Quote from: T Legg on March 06, 2026, 05:26:22 PMI'm glad to hear you have it fixed.Thanks again. I found the circuit diagram in the service manual unnecessarily confusing regarding the wiring around the diode and the clutch switch. I see that you've used white out and redrew some of the wiring lines on your marked diagram to clarify it. I found your version of the electricial circuit much more useful than what is in the service manual.
A good color coded complete wiring schematic really helps. I keep a copy of it in my tool pouch and a picture on my phone. The Yamaha owners manual that comes with the bike has a complete schematic but its point to point not set up like a ladder diaghram also very small and hard to see without a magnifying glass.
Quote from: Gearbox Paul on February 27, 2026, 09:49:52 AMResolved. Got home last night and tore into that this morning. I pulled the diode block off the bike and tested both diodes that are connected to the neutral switch. Sure enough, the diode between the Blue/Yellow wire and the Sky Blue wire had failed and had no current flow in either direction. Other diode tested fine. I had some 1N4001 diodes at home from another project, so I bypassed the failded diode and spliced in a 1N4001 diode between the two wires. Works as it should now. Good call T Legg.Quote from: T Legg on February 26, 2026, 01:45:37 PMIt could be a bad diode in the diode block #27 on the factory manual schematic.The kickstand relay contacts when closed ground out the ignition control and prevents the spark plugs from firing. When the kickstand is up it closes the switch and gives the kickstand relay coil a path to ground energizing the coil and causing the relay contacts to open up ungrounding the ignition module and allows spark. There is a second path to ground for the kickstand relay coil that goes through a diode to the nuetral switch to ground. If that diode goes out then the only way to ground for the kickstand relay is through the kickstand switch.You may be onto something. I'm looking through the wiring diagram and circuit diagram and if one of 2 the diodes that supply current to the neutral switch failed open (no current flow), it might explain what I am seeing. I'll need to pull that diode block and test it with the wiring diagram. Good thought. I'm away from home at this time and returning in a week. I'll report back.