Take your continuity tester and see if the clutch/neutral switches and normally open or closed. Go from there....

Why do you want to disable them? 
You realize that if you thumb your starter motor while your transmission is in gear you can stretch the starter chain and/or damage your starter?

Hi, so I have a chopped FJ1200 8xw.
I've just rewired it with a Axel Joist DBox.
But what I'm wanting to do is get rid of the clutch and neutral cut out switchs.
How do I go about this?

86 fj1200..stock engine.
I added black widow pipes and these mufflers due to their claim I wouldn't need to rejet my carbs.
https://delkevic.com/yamaha-fj1100-fj1200-1tx-84-88-slip-on-13-5-x-oval-stainless-exhaust-muffler-kit/
well..when I let up on the gas it back fires out the exhaust..
so my questions are..does anyone else run these mufflers and did you have to reject the carbs?
I plan on removing the baffles because it sounds like a Ducati now..or a 2 cylinder john deer tractor. lol
OH..if you order pipes from  Black Widow you're possibly going to have to mod the end that goes in the engine. They make it to long and you can't put the chin spoiler on unless you shorten the pipe.
I e-mailed them regarding this and they claim their pipes are correct. lol ya..ok.

Paul,
I have an FJ1100 (1985) and my experience is very similar to T Legg's, for performance at top RPM. If you find any lack of "hang on!" motivation there, I would suspect there are carb, air-flow, or fuel-flow problems with the bike. Instead of guesswork, a good dyno run might nail down the cause in one move. Otherwise, check fuel filters, air filters, and (at a minimum) run a can of high-quality carb cleaner/fuel injector cleaner through the tank. Mix it as the label directs. It will take maybe two tanks of fuel + one can of cleaner to do the magic, but that may be all you need. Add the cleaner just before you fill the tank, to get good mixing action in there. Carb cleaner on a schedule is just routine maintenance with these bikes. HTH.

  "The FJ seems very comfortable at 3000 rpm, and feels and sounds like I'm pushing it hard at 5000+ rpm.  I have to think that's just me getting used to that bike.  Low end torque is good, but I was expecting it to be better.  I haven't pushed the bike much higher than 7000 rpm but it felt like there wasn't that much left in it if I did".

The FJ wouldn't be a match hp wise with your other bikes but I wonder if you might have some carburetor issues. All my FJ's have decent torque between 3500 and 4500 rpm but the real power starts at about 5500 rpm and continues all the way to redline at 9500 .
 I had an 84 FJ that had dissappointing top end performance compared to my other FJ's.I checked the compression and it was low around 105 to 120 psi. I attributed the lack of power to the low compression .One day I had the rs36 mikuni carbs from my other 1100 off so I put them on to the weak 1100 and I was surprised that it completely changed the performance.I later put a set of stock carbs from another bike and it ran well at the high rpm's with those carbs also.

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Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 25, 2026, 02:21:40 PM

Quote from: MarioR on March 25, 2026, 01:22:57 PM

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 17, 2026, 03:08:38 PMLet us know how we can help!

Thanks Pat!

Anyone got an extra shifter rod linkage lying around?

Do you need the 2 clamps and rod or just the adjustment rod? 
[edit] Just Checked...nope, I don't have one or I'd send it to ya...

FYI I Searched "FJ1100 shift" on FleaBay, found several : https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fj1100+shift&_sop=12

Thanks Pat.

Ordered.

Update:

Found in boxes brand new petcock so lucky me.

New line and fuel supply is good now.

Top gas cap making noise so will need to open it up and clean it or change it.

Thanks

This is a progress report, or more accurately a report of slow progress on the FJ1100.

The FJ is in the midst of being cleaned and de-rusted which will then lead to spot repainting of the frame (both front and rear).  The front frame (silver) needs the most de-rusting.  I had to strip the frame section that the front fairing attaches to down to bare metal.  The rear frame (black) is in better shape and the rusted areas seem to be confined to small areas on the welds.   And then I'll tackle repainting of the engine.

The carbs have been rebuilt by RPM and were returned with the initial orders of parts to refurbish FJ.  It was in very sad shape after a lonnngg storage, and needs a lot of work to get back on the road, but the parts are ready when I get to that stage.

I'll post more pictures of the "new" FJ as it is being restored.

Steve

Sorry for the late reply...

Good....It sounds like you have a full sweep gauge and sending unit.

Don't try and calibrate based on the position of the sweep. The tank is an odd shape.

Calibrate based only on the amount of liquid you have in the tank.

Cheers