Hey thanks, right back at you! Always loved the red and white FJs. The windscreen was done by the previous owner who was 6'3". He said it was like night and day as far as riding with the original. Highly recommended! I'm 5'9" and I love it!

Quote from: Warp84 on March 10, 2026, 12:22:32 PMDo you have a testing procedure I can run through on it?

There are 2 vacuum lines on our Early FJ's. Cylinder #1 port vacuum line goes to the petcock and cylinder #2 port goes down to the ignition box. The purpose of the #2 vacuum line is to advance the ignition timing *upon closed throttle* (for emission reasons)  as discussed here:
https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=11690.0

On the early FJ's ('84-87) the vacuum diaphragm is internal in the TCI ignition box and is non serviceable, non replaceable and the later '88-95 FJ's have the vacuum advance as a stand alone module, separate from the DCI ignition box. As our bikes age, this diaphragm can become cracked, thus leaking vacuum...causing a hanging high idle, what Robert was referring to....

How to test? We call this the suck test. Disconnect the vacuum line at the #2 intake port, clean the end, and suck on the hose. Put your tongue over the end of the hose to hold the hose under vacuum. The vacuum hose should stay under vacuum...if it bleeds off or if you can draw air through the hose, either the ignition box diaphragm is leaking or your hose is leaking. The hose replacement is easy, not so much the ignition box internal diaphragm.

Solution: Cap off the #2 intake port, use the heavy rubber oem Yamaha vacuum caps. It's hot in this area in front of the heat shield.
As discussed above there will be no performance loss with this vacuum feature disconnected.

Cheers....hope this helps.

Pat

Best news of the day!

Quote from: 86FJNJ on March 10, 2026, 01:54:10 PMwow that's great news! and kind of a surprising ending, I wonder if it was a joy ride or if somebody realized moving a rare bike on the black market will be difficult.

Ok time to put a GPS tracker on it, a padlock on the rotor and a security camera facing it whenever it's parked.

Looks like they took it just to try to make a couple of bucks for drugs... unfortunately 

They damaged the ignition but weren't able to start the bike. They also tried to remove the seat, but it looks like that didn't work either. They even tried using a pry bar on the tank... no luck 

Basically, they didn't really know what to do with it. Since it was posted everywhere, they probably decided it was better to ditch it than deal with the consequences.

After several failed attempts, they gave up and left it.

Definitely getting an Apple tracker and keeping it stored inside from now on 

wow that's great news! and kind of a surprising ending, I wonder if it was a joy ride or if somebody realized moving a rare bike on the black market will be difficult.

Ok time to put a GPS tracker on it, a padlock on the rotor and a security camera facing it whenever it's parked.

Quote from: 86FJNJ on March 10, 2026, 08:30:51 AMHi Red, I'm curious why not to use WD-40 for throttle cable lube?

86FJNJ,
WD-40 is mostly kerosene, not a lubricant. If it works at all, it's because the solvent is just re-locating some lube that was already there. Then the kerosene evaporates, leaving a sticky, gummy mess that attracts dirt. Spray some WD-40 on a glass pane, and see if you like what you find there in a week.
The solvent can also deteriorate the inner lining of some cables, bad plan.
Besides all that, I get pissed when stuff that I can buy in gallons is being sold by ounces, for more money.
All IMHO, of course.   

MarioR,
Hooray!       

You prolly needed some new keys anyway. Happy trails.

Hi guys,

Anyone happen to have a choke cable assembly for sale?

Working on my project and could use a starter/choke cable if someone has an extra laying around that they don't need.

Cheers!

Quote from: RPM - Robert on March 10, 2026, 12:00:16 PMThose cables are pre lubed you won't need to lube them for awhile.

We use tri flow to lube ours. Has a little bit of teflon in it and that helps them slide in the plastic tube liner.

The pull cable might a have a bit of slack but is the push cable adjusted properly?

Positive you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? Depending on year the igniter box had a vacuum timing advance that can fail and cause a vacuum leak.

Greetings Robert,

This bike was pretty neglected by it's P.O. There's a solid chance there might be something wrong the ignition box. Do you have a testing procedure I can run through on it?

The intake boots were just replaced due to vacuum leak around the brass nipples on the previous set. Also replaced the caps and vacuum petcock line. (Also rebuilt the petcock with the RPM kit) I'll have to double check the line that goes from the boot to the box here soon.

Those cables are pre lubed you won't need to lube them for awhile.

We use tri flow to lube ours. Has a little bit of teflon in it and that helps them slide in the plastic tube liner.

The pull cable might a have a bit of slack but is the push cable adjusted properly?

Positive you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere? Depending on year the igniter box had a vacuum timing advance that can fail and cause a vacuum leak.