Red is right.
Just checked the SDS for the Simple Green Pro HD, purple colour. It states the pH is 10-11.5.
Never allow pH greater than 8.5 anywhere near aluminium.

Aluminium is stable in pH ranges from about 4-8.5. Greater than 8.5 and aluminium is susceptible to alkaline attack.

Essentially the outer passive aluminium oxide layer, or anodic (anodised) aluminium oxide layer is stripped.

As aluminium is highly reactive (conductive), it tries to re-grow the oxide layer immediately, thus accelerating surface pitting.

If, as in the very warm ultrasonic cleaning environment, there is a lack of oxygen in the solution near the aluminium it becomes self sustaining (autocatalytic), a process known as hydrolysing (possibly where the maker mentions hydrogen embrittlement).

Overall, aluminium is tough, but incredibly reactive to alkaline attack. If there is any salt/chlorides/chlorines etc, and free oxygen is taken up by other processes, in a solution that has pH higher than 8.5 the cleaning solution will be very aggressive and damage the surface.

Troyskie

Quote from: MarioR on Yesterday at 01:27:32 PM

Quote from: Warp84 on February 16, 2026, 08:49:53 PMSimple Green is what burned the coating off my carb bodies. I'll have to see about that Tillbrook Cleaner you mention.

10% simple Green + 10% vinegar + 15 min in 50-60 degree process = decent results but still no original effect.

MarioR,

EEK! The regular Simple Green is NOT suitable for any use with aluminum. There have been problems, described by the maker as "hydrogen embrittlement," causing cracks in the aluminum over time.
The maker now offers an "aluminum safe" version of Simple Green, but the container has a very different label. So you know, there really was a problem there.

Quote from: Warp84 on February 16, 2026, 08:49:53 PMSimple Green is what burned the coating off my carb bodies. I'll have to see about that Tillbrook Cleaner you mention.

10% simple Green + 10% vinegar + 15 min in 50-60 degree process = decent results but still no original effect.

Anyone tried Omega Clean solution yet? Pics?

https://www.omegasonics.com/product/omegaclean/

Thanks

Quote from: racerrad8 on Yesterday at 10:39:44 AMHave a look at this topic from earlier this week.

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21650.msg218341#msg218341

When we run out of the Chemcrest, we'll be searching for a new product as well. Ultrasonic technology has increased so there are now new things out on the market compared to when I starter using ultra sonic 20 years ago.

Randy - RPM

Thanks Robert

Have a look at this topic from earlier this week.

https://fjowners.com/index.php?topic=21650.msg218341#msg218341

When we run out of the Chemcrest, we'll be searching for a new product as well. Ultrasonic technology and supply products has increased over the years, so there are now new things out on the market compared to when I starter using ultrasonic 20+ years ago.

Randy - RPM

Hi Guys,

So long story short, Robert recommended to use Chem Crest 235. In my area, this solution is not available.

I know.... could be order overseas but exploring options to be cost efficient if possible.

What other alternative you guys use with factory effect?

I used many different green solution that are "safe for aluminum"  but I was not happy with the results.

Always darken carbs and dull. Used aluminum brighter to clean residue.....and looks okay but should be better.

What to use to make them as a factory shinny aluminum ?

Cheers  

Arnaud,
Depending on the LEDs you can find, it may be possible to install a number of single LED bulbs in each of the OEM turn signal light fixtures, around the stock lamps. The stock flashers remain the same, and the LED flasher will light up the hazard-light LEDs.
Remember to use amber LEDs under the amber lenses.  White LEDs put out very little amber light, so they would appear to be dim with amber lenses.

This past Sunday it got up to 62 in northern Illinois.  I got both bikes out.
You cannot view this attachment.

I think Red's idea has merit. Leave the oem flasher relay alone.
Add the aftermarket flasher relay and switch for the hazard light function but instead of adding additional LEDs I would try and use your existing flasher lights by using a pair of diodes to separate the hazard circuit from the turn signal circuit.

Arnaud,
I don't know the "91 electronics either, but if you have self-cancelling turn signals, I would leave all of that alone. If you brick the flasher unit, you may have problems getting things back to stock.
Being somewhat lazy, I would add four LED displays, each one on, under, or near one of the OEM turn signal assemblies. Connect all four LEDs together, powered from a standard LED flasher, with a handlebar (or panel) switch to turn them on and off. The advantages here are that the LEDs can be much brighter than the OEM turn signals, it's simple to install, and easy to fix if necessary. HTH.
My US$ .02 worth . . .