I hate ask because I know it's in here somewhere I just can't find it, I searched both manuals and this forum and can't figure out how the spark plugs are numbered left to right. They come out of the coil as 1,4,2,3. Is that how the cylinders are numbered? Thanks

Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 05, 2026, 10:24:24 AM

Quote from: MarioR on February 26, 2026, 09:35:52 AMAnyone install entire 87/88 FZR front end? Any benefits other than wheel and rotors? Does it fit?

No, there is no reason to install the front end of a 87/88 FZR1000 or 750, so no one has done it.
 The 87/88 FZR's use the same inferior damper rod forks, same flexy 41mm dia. fork tubes and 15mm axle as our oem FJ's.
They only redeeming value of the 87/88 FZR front end is the 17" x 3.5" rim, that's it...

If you do go to the trouble a front end swap *at the very least get cartridge forks* they are tunable and if you stay with conventional forks, get the stronger 42mm dia. fork tubes and stiffer 17mm dia. axle (along with a 3.5"x 17" front rim and 320mm rotors)

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks....

17" x 3.5" rim and 320mm rotors Pat

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks.... Agreed, got 750R USD fork already. Now looking for wheel and fender......

Quote from: MarioR on February 26, 2026, 09:35:52 AMAnyone install entire 87/88 FZR front end? Any benefits other than wheel and rotors? Does it fit?

No, there is no reason to install the front end of a 87/88 FZR1000 or 750, so no one has done it.
 The 87/88 FZR's use the same inferior damper rod forks, same flexy 41mm dia. fork tubes and 15mm axle as our oem FJ's.
They only redeeming value of the 87/88 FZR front end is the 17" x 3.5" rim, that's it...

If you do go to the trouble a front end swap *at the very least get cartridge forks* they are tunable and if you stay with conventional forks, get the stronger 42mm dia. fork tubes and stiffer 17mm dia. axle (along with a 3.5"x 17" front rim and 320mm rotors)

....always remembering.....FJ's with USD forks gets the chicks....

The lineup in front of the resort brings back fond memories of 2014.

Sounds like the good times continue.

Randy - RPM

The standard (gold) springs are perfect for the stock FJ engine.

Thanks pat are the standard springs that come with the Barnett clutch good enough or do I need to buy those heavy duty springs?

That sounds like a clutch slip....rising rpm is key. If it a smooth slip, clutch for sure.....if it jerks suddenly, it's the tranny gears.

Then again...You could have both issues.

Fix the clutch spring first.....go from there. 
I agree with Tim, the Barnett coil spring conversion is better than the EBC diaphragm spring. I have that kit in all my FJ's.

Thanks, is there a way to tell if the issue is clutch slipping or slipping out of gear? I've had it happen in 2nd and 3rd for sure, basically I would get the RPM's up to like 4-5k and grab a bunch of throttle and the RPM's would nearly redline but I'd feel the momentum of the bike stop for a second and I'd naturally lay off the throttle and it would catch and start moving. I first thought it was the clutch but then people have me thinking it's the gears. Bike only has 20k miles but IDK how PO rode it.

My clutch was slipping and the first thing I was instructed to look at is my oil to make sure I was not using something with additives that would impact the clutch engagement. This seems like it should be obvious but it is pretty common that an incorrect automotive oil with cleaners or additives was used by mistake or at some point in the bikes life - that will affect clutch grab.

I installed a second disc spring in my bike which doubled up the lever firmness and corrected the slip but not entirely. 

I missed the "soft" lever and full engagement that I once knew and went with the Barnett Coil Spring Plate for about $145. It was easy to install. Eliminated all slippage and was a reasonably low pull weight at the lever. I also switched to the Oberon Slave Cylinder and was able to bleed my clutch more thoroughly and more easily than ever before. 

I currently have the best clutch I have ever had on my bike... 

There are many paths and options on the clutch. Just replacing the OEM spring with a new one and making sure your plates are flat, clean and within tolerance should do it.  Correct oil of course. 

Any scoring or burning on the fiber plates after experiencing slippage would result in replacement with a new set for me. If the steels are flat they can be cleaned of scoring and reused.  I lay mine on a piece of glass in the garage and see if they wiggle at all.  Any movement means its warped and a new plate should be used.

tim

2 different, unrelated issues. Clutch plate slippage vs transmission gear disengaging.

You can fix either one, yet still have the other issue.

Transmission gear disengagement typically happens in 2nd gear.

 Clutch plate slippage can happen in any gear, usually a hard roll on in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

Fixing a slipping clutch will not help nor hurt the transmission gear problem.

Apples and Oranges.