it's giantkillers fault I have one..

zero26tb4u,
With a breaker bar and a cheater pipe, I would hesitate to hit the cheater pipe with a hammer. I would get the bolt hot, as you did, but I would want the hit the bolt head as if it was a nail once or twice, then trying the breaker/cheater again. Sometimes a powered impact driver can get things going, if you can manage that.
As things worked out, nothing succeeds like success, so cheers for that much, certainly. Glad that the bolt was stronger than the thread-locker, for you. Sometimes it is the bolt that loses the contest. D.A.M.H.I.K.

I know this is an old thread but when looking for information about replacing the left side crankcase seal that resides behind the ignition coil pickup this was the thread I ended up on and I thought I'd add some of the information I didn't find here but ultimately discovered.

As of this moment I have not removed the offending leaking seal as the new one hasn't arrived yet but I figured I would move forward with removing everything in front of or outboard of the seal in preparation of the job. So I started with removing the bolt that secures the pickup rotor to the crank and that is where my questions began because that bolt was ridiculously tight, so tight in fact that I began to wonder is this thing loaded with red loctite or reverse threaded. It is not reverse threaded but it was loaded with red loctite, something that no one else posting about this repair ever mentions, and even after heating the bolt with a small tipped torch, just to keep the heat on the bolt, I still had to smack the back of my 14" breaker bar that I had added another 14" of steel pipe to for additional leverage with a hammer to get this thing to move. So, if any one is having difficulty getting that bolt out, I hope this helps. 

Quote from: zero26tb4u on April 07, 2026, 08:58:53 PMLooks like the 12th to the 17th or 18th for me.

Rumpty too?

Looks like the 12th to the 17th or 18th for me.

Quote from: MarioR on April 02, 2026, 03:01:40 PM

Quote from: 5speed on April 02, 2026, 09:29:17 AM86 fj1200..stock engine.
I added black widow pipes and these mufflers due to their claim I wouldn't need to rejet my carbs.
https://delkevic.com/yamaha-fj1100-fj1200-1tx-84-88-slip-on-13-5-x-oval-stainless-exhaust-muffler-kit/
well..when I let up on the gas it back fires out the exhaust..
so my questions are..does anyone else run these mufflers and did you have to reject the carbs?
I plan on removing the baffles because it sounds like a Ducati now..or a 2 cylinder john deer tractor. lol
OH..if you order pipes from  Black Widow you're possibly going to have to mod the end that goes in the engine. They make it to long and you can't put the chin spoiler on unless you shorten the pipe.
I e-mailed them regarding this and they claim their pipes are correct. lol ya..ok.

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

Thanks.

I'm trying to get animals sorted out and Jeff & I will be there 12th to 19th or 20th....then on up to Lexington VA to work a horse show before driving back home on the 24th/25th.

NancyK

If you were closer I'd buy it today.

As it is, I'll sleep on it.

I do like a good road trip!

glws

The fat end of the taper spindle definitely goes to the bottom like in the picture shown on the bench in the post. I had a set of forks where some one installed the skinny end down and when they torqued down the damper rod bolts the taper spindles were wedged into the fork bottoms.I was never able to remove the taper spindles and had to buy another set of forks for the fork bottoms. Surprisingly the forks worked ok with the taper spindles in upside down but that may have been because they had been converted to gold valves and the damper rods had been drilled out.
   The oil seals have to be installed with the springs down torwards the oil.

There is a conversion chart online for dynojet to similar Mikuni/Keihin sizes, start there.