Mine starts and runs in neutral with the side stand down (with and without the clutch pulled in).

If pull in the clutch and put the bike into gear with the engine running and the stand down, the bike cuts out, so I can't ride off with the side stand down. That's the way it's supposed to work 

Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2026, 08:56:53 PMMikuni sells them set up for different spacing. The FJ spacing is 77-85-77. The carb spacing is adjustable but you want to buy them already set up for an FJ. The models that fit the FJ are RS36-D8-K and the RS38-D35-K . They use the stock intake manifolds but you will need individual pod air filters. RPM's great dual pod filters unfortunately won't fit. You will also need a motion pro throttle tube assembly and push pull cables. One plus is that replacing a set of cables is much cheaper than replacing a set of oem FJ cables.
 They come with a manual pull choke. My first set of carbs have a bracket that allows the use of the stock FJ choke set up but I don't know if those are still available. I don't use the choke anyway. With the accelerator pumps I just twist the throttle twice to pump in a little gas and the bike fires every time even at below  freezing temperatures.

Thank you for the information. You've given me a lot to think about. But I do have another question. Is the requirement for the airpod filters a matter of space the new Carbs take? Or simple a matter of the boots between the airbox and the carb not being remotely compatible? Or Thirdly, a matter of needing a direct airflow path regardless.

If the issue is merely the connection between the airbox and the RS36/38's being the problem, I can actually make custom ones since it's on the cold side and won't destroy injection molded TPU.

I thought that what you are describing is right. Is what you're doing all with the bike on the centre stand?
It's a safety switch to stop you riding off with the side stand down. Unless i'm reading it wrong.

Quote from: MarioR on February 24, 2026, 11:01:44 AM

Quote from: RPM - Robert on February 24, 2026, 10:35:03 AMCorrect on the 86/87 model it should not flow any fuel until vacuum is applied. If it is flowing fuel the petcock is bad.

The 84-85 has a prime function which will flow fuel when the selector switch is in the prime position but in the on position it should not flow fuel until vacuum is applied.

Thank you Robert.

I recently had to get a rebuild kit from RPM for me 84 because my tank started marking its territory when I took it off the bike. Put on the rebuild kit and it seals it right back up.

I'm having trouble figuring this out.  1985 FJ1100.  Bike starts and runs fine in neutral with the kickstand up.  When I lower the kickstand (with bike still in neutral), the starter cranks over but the bike won't start.  When running in neutral, if I lower the kickstand, the bike dies.  If I pull the clutch in, bike will run in neutral or in gear with the kickstand down (or up).  And when the bike is in neutral, the neutral light on the dash always lights up. 

so far I tested the kickstand safety switch and I get no continuity when it is down and low resistance (about 40 ohms) when it is up.  It's supposed to have full continuity (0 ohms) when up, so I don't know if 40 ohms is close enough to full continuity, or not. 

I also tested the side stand relay and the results don't make any sense to me.  The resistance across the powered leads reads 75 ohms which is within spec.  When I apply power to these leads, I can hear the relay clicking.  With power applied, I have no continuity (infinite resistance) across the other two leads, and without power, I have full continuity (no resistance).  this is the opposite of what should happen, according to the service manual. 

I haven't tested the neutral light switch yet.  But the green neutral light is working.  It is possible to have the neutral light working but the switch failed ??

I'm a little lost.  Hopefully my description above isn't too confusing. 

Mikuni sells them set up for different spacing. The FJ spacing is 77-85-77. The carb spacing is adjustable but you want to buy them already set up for an FJ. The models that fit the FJ are RS36-D8-K and the RS38-D35-K . They use the stock intake manifolds but you will need individual pod air filters. RPM's great dual pod filters unfortunately won't fit. You will also need a motion pro throttle tube assembly and push pull cables. One plus is that replacing a set of cables is much cheaper than replacing a set of oem FJ cables.
 They come with a manual pull choke. My first set of carbs have a bracket that allows the use of the stock FJ choke set up but I don't know if those are still available. I don't use the choke anyway. With the accelerator pumps I just twist the throttle twice to pump in a little gas and the bike fires every time even at below  freezing temperatures.

Quote from: T Legg on February 25, 2026, 09:13:12 AMMy first FJ1100 had RS-36 carbs and it ran great with those carbs. The carbs were the old versions with bakeolite plastic slides and they started to have a hanging idle problem I couldnt fix so I bought a set of RS-38 carbs. I didn't get much if any improvement over the 36 mm carbs in HP with the stock 1100 engine and the larger carbs didn,t run as smoothly .When I put The larger 1249 cc engine in with the RS-38 carbs they seemed like a perfect fit and the bike runs very smooth.I think the RS-36 carbs would be a better fit with a stock 1100 engine.

Do the RS36/38's have the same bracket spacing as the BS36's? And use the same intake boots. Or do I need to find custom boots as well when I go to change out the carb stack?

Painting the fins won't impact engine temps. As long as youre riding you'll have plenty of air going over the engine to cool it.

If you want to give your FJ some extra cooling RPM sells a larger oil cooler kit. I installed it on my FJ because my original oil lines to my cooler were very corroded but I also wanted to have a bit more cooling because I ride a lot in summer and the FJ does get very hot.

While you have the tank off I suggest ensuring you have some proper heat shield stuck to the underside of your tank to keep some of that engine heat off the base of the tank. It gets real hot under there.

I am thinking on this one to keep forks....already rebuild with progressive spring, cartridges and plates. Did bracket for Tokico calipers as well....


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Sounds like you will need to find the right diameter (check the thickness as well) rotors and make sure they are set the same width apart as the '86 when mounted, so they center in the calipers properly.

Quote from: FJmonkey on February 25, 2026, 03:10:36 PM

Quote from: MarioR on February 25, 2026, 12:53:04 PMThanks. I'm trying to use it with '86/'87 forks.
It will need to be fitted to make it work.

Thanks

I put 88/89 forks on my '86. This was due to wanting the Blue Dot calipers. They will not bolt on to the '86 forks directly.  The other consideration is the rotor size on the FZR wheel. You will need to find a rotor of the correct diameter and if needed, an offset to center the rotor in the caliper. The 88/89 forks makes all that crap a simple bolt-on.

I am thinking on this one to keep forks....already rebuild with progressive spring, cartridges and plates. Did bracket for Tokico calipers as well....