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CMR racing products F1 frame

Started by Indiana jones, November 22, 2018, 06:36:40 PM

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Indiana jones

BMW R1150GS,XT600 Tenere,FJ1100 bobber, Ducati 999 BiP x 2

nlovie

Quote from: Indiana jones on September 20, 2021, 02:01:52 PM

That's my CMR framed Honda too. Rs1000 replica with a Neate Racing Cb1173 engine.

looks like my good friend Phil Clarke's RS Rep. ??? - - jees if its not his bike its an uncanny combo of the same bits

nlovie

Quote from: fj1289 on March 01, 2020, 01:54:29 PM
Quote from: Pat Conlon on March 01, 2020, 11:46:29 AM
Travis, wait till you hear Frank's Wizard with the FCR roller slides....

Sounds like Santa Claus is coming....

And the rollers slides on the FCRs are SO nice and smooth - no "hangups" or "snatching" the RS carbs sometimes give at the very moment you don't need it!

with the RS38's - replace the  felt washers in the outer carb's - ref: throttle lift bar - with plastic bearing bush's. Then slacken the carb body mounting screws - should now snap closed lovely - ok now gradually nip up the screws until it hang's again - brill - shim the screw that caused it to hang - basically the carb body mounting faces to the two assembly brackets are not kept to the best of tolerances

T Legg

The new rs- 38's I bought have no hanging throttle problems at all but I'll take a look at my 35 year old rs-36 carbs and see if that might help the hanging idle problem they have although they snap shut fine when the bike is sitting. The problem is when it's running the idle can be stuck at 3- 4 thousand rpm. At the west coast rally in hayfork it was so bad my front rotors turned dark blue from trying to slow for the corners. I went so far as to pull the tops off while the bike was parked and running and manually push the slides down and the idle was still way to high . After the bike was cooled down the idle would return to normal untill it warmed up again . Frustration lead me to buy the new set of rs-38's . I would love to use the old rs-36's on one of my other FJ's. Thanks for the info.
T Legg

FJ1200W

Quote from: nlovie on September 22, 2021, 12:29:36 PM


with the RS38's - replace the  felt washers in the outer carb's - ref: throttle lift bar - with plastic bearing bush's. Then slacken the carb body mounting screws - should now snap closed lovely - ok now gradually nip up the screws until it hang's again - brill - shim the screw that caused it to hang - basically the carb body mounting faces to the two assembly brackets are not kept to the best of tolerances


great info, thx
Steve
Columbia, Missouri
USA

Indiana jones

Bit of an update.
Completed 2 days on track in way April.
Some clutch slip but fuel was pretty OK.
Dyno run yesterday.
Running lean low down and clutch letting go at 6.5k rpm.
125 at the wheel.
More to come.
Anglesea next weekend for 2 days in track.
BMW R1150GS,XT600 Tenere,FJ1100 bobber, Ducati 999 BiP x 2

fj1289

Excellent - glad you've made it to the track and the dyno!

I don't remember your clutch setup - stock?  With double diagram spring?  Or a six coil spring conversion?  Would really like to see the numbers with the carb jetting sorted a bit more and the clutch slip gone!


Indiana jones

I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.
BMW R1150GS,XT600 Tenere,FJ1100 bobber, Ducati 999 BiP x 2

fj1289

Quote from: Indiana jones on June 10, 2022, 11:16:03 PM
I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.


Billet basket or stock basket?  I don't remember the particulars, but I remember having to machine the clutch hub by .03" (I think) for clearance. 

In my experience, clutch slave issues are generally clutch release/drag issues vice clutch slip issues. 

Was this all based on an XJR engine as I recall?  Did you use XJR or FJ sprocket cover/clutch slave mount?  Did you use the XJR or FJ clutch pushrod?


Indiana jones

Stock basket,xjr everything except for a rebuilt Fj slave,which is the same anyway.
I might increase the stack height with an extra steel like I used to do on my Ducati 999.
It's not even burning the plates which tells me that there isn't enough pressure on the plates to cause heat when its slipping.
BMW R1150GS,XT600 Tenere,FJ1100 bobber, Ducati 999 BiP x 2

Pat Conlon

I'm assuming you are using the oem fiber plates and that you've removed the snap ring and skinny inner fiber plate?
You are also using a "safe for wet clutch" oil?

Are you running the red springs or greens? The reds being the heaviest available.
I recall in the 80's/90's the drag racing guys needed special Kevlar plates as an interm until they progressed to lock up clutches.
http://www.barnettclutches.com/1310/yamaha/0/0/1991-yamaha-fj1200.html

I have the RPM clutch pack using oem fibers with Barnett conversion using the green springs and it holds up well on my 1380cc street bike.  I suspect the problem resides with the clamping force and friction plates, not with the hydraulic's.

Perhaps a call into Doc Hacker would be in order?

Cheers mate, I love your bike.   Pat
1) Free Owners Manual download: https://tinyurl.com/fmsz7hk9
2) Don't store your FJ with E10 fuel https://tinyurl.com/3cjrfct5
3) Replace your old stock rubber brake lines.
4) Important items for the '84-87 FJ's:
Safety wire: https://tinyurl.com/99zp8ufh
Fuel line: https://tinyurl.com/bdff9bf3

racerrad8

You have a lot ambiguity here and specifics are needed.

You'll need to confirm which spring is the "heavy duty" one you have.

Secondly, as Pat already mentioned, if running the stock clutch pack, then you need to do some work to upgrade.

Unless you convert to thinner plates and steels you cannot shim the stack as the pressure plate can disengage from the clutch boss and stop all drive.

Finally, if you completely compress the slave cylinder, there should end some end play in the pushrod. If there is not or the slave won't seat against the mounting lugs, the pushrod is too long.

Shoot over the specifics and we can get you dialed in without too much fuss. The clutch is strong enough to push around our 1500 pound racecars, it can handle your race bike once you have the right combo.

Randy - RPM
Randy - RPM

JMR

Quote from: fj1289 on June 11, 2022, 08:32:32 AM
Quote from: Indiana jones on June 10, 2022, 11:16:03 PM
I have a Barnett conversion with heavy duty springs, new steels and frictions.
Still slipping at the Anglesey track day.
I used richer needles, so she was pulling like a train till the clutch slipped.
Has anyone converted to a cable clutch as I'm starting to think it's the slave or master that's the issue.


Billet basket or stock basket?  I don't remember the particulars, but I remember having to machine the clutch hub by .03" (I think) for clearance. 

In my experience, clutch slave issues are generally clutch release/drag issues vice clutch slip issues. 

Was this all based on an XJR engine as I recall?  Did you use XJR or FJ sprocket cover/clutch slave mount?  Did you use the XJR or FJ clutch pushrod?


That is correct.

Indiana jones

It's the springs.
I was under the impression that the green springs were the heaviest, that's what in it.
If it slips with the 6 springs I have in it now, I'll need a lock up clutch.
Lever feels much better.
Thanks for the replies.
BMW R1150GS,XT600 Tenere,FJ1100 bobber, Ducati 999 BiP x 2

fj1289

It might take a little ingenuity - but if you can figure out how - measure the installed spring height (clutch lever released) and the bind height of the springs, then you will know how much you can shim the springs for additional clamping force if needed.