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Replacing electrical NON-insulated terminals and connectors

Started by Old Rider, October 05, 2021, 02:05:19 PM

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Old Rider

I have 2 very bad connectors on my bike.It is the connectors from the gastank fuelsender and petcook.The low fuellight is not working and i think maybe
the bad connectors is the reason.I have only worked on insulated terminals before never mounted non-insulated.I done a little write up while doing the work may be useful for someone planning replacing uninsulated terminals
It is very easy to fit the terminals.I bought a cheep 7usd crimptool.The connectors was bought on ebay here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/174645622444
The shipping was slow but free.

I'm not a master in crimping non insulated terminals and first i watched a video on youtube, but i think this way is wrong  :scratch_one-s_head:! it is the same tool i used
wrong method https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFISYvN5DW0

Tuned forks

Very nice crimping job.  :good:

No issue getting the connector kit directly from China?
1990 FJ1200-the reacher
1990 FZR 1000-crotch rocket

Old Rider

Quote from: Tuned forks on October 05, 2021, 02:23:26 PM
Very nice crimping job.  :good:

No issue getting the connector kit directly from China?

Thanks it is very easy with the tool. I had no issues with the postage the package was marked gift and shipping was free,but it used about 7 weeks to arrive to Norway from china they use a boat i think  :smile: i would rather pay a little more and get it faster.I have bought many things from china before and usually takes 10 days

red

Old Rider,

A heavier version of the crimping tool would be better, but that one can get the job done.  Where the pix say to crimp the last "lugs" of a pin into the insulation, I like to fold the "lugs" over the insulation using small pliers, then put the "lugs" into the concave side of the crimper, opposite of what the pix show.  That's just me, maybe.

You can get new vintage connectors with the correct, heavy contact pins from a number of USA suppliers, at these links.  These guys typically have experienced tech help available by phone, but you may wish to use email instead.  They may know of European sources which are more local to you.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html
http://vintageconnections.com/
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html
* http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
* https://prowireusa.com/
* https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
* https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=120
* https://electricalconnection.com/
.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

FJ1200W

Quote from: red on October 05, 2021, 04:23:11 PM
Old Rider,

A heavier version of the crimping tool would be better, but that one can get the job done.  Where the pix say to crimp the last "lugs" of a pin into the insulation, I like to fold the "lugs" over the insulation using small pliers, then put the "lugs" into the concave side of the crimper, opposite of what the pix show.  That's just me, maybe.

You can get new vintage connectors with the correct, heavy contact pins from a number of USA suppliers, at these links.  These guys typically have experienced tech help available by phone, but you may wish to use email instead.  They may know of European sources which are more local to you.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html

I might spend the next week surfing those sites - great links, thx
http://vintageconnections.com/
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html
* http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
* https://prowireusa.com/
* https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
* https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=120
* https://electricalconnection.com/
.
Steve
Columbia, Missouri
USA

FJ1200W

Steve
Columbia, Missouri
USA

fj1289

For crimped connections (really anything NOT in a multiple pin connector) I like using a product called Ox-Gard.  It is basically dielectric grease with metal shavings added in - protects against corrosion and increases connectivity.   Really good stuff.  DO NOT use in multi-pin connectors - can cause shorting between the connections if it gets smeared around a bit. 

Old Rider

Quote from: red on October 05, 2021, 04:23:11 PM
Old Rider,

A heavier version of the crimping tool would be better, but that one can get the job done.  Where the pix say to crimp the last "lugs" of a pin into the insulation, I like to fold the "lugs" over the insulation using small pliers, then put the "lugs" into the concave side of the crimper, opposite of what the pix show.  That's just me, maybe.

You can get new vintage connectors with the correct, heavy contact pins from a number of USA suppliers, at these links.  These guys typically have experienced tech help available by phone, but you may wish to use email instead.  They may know of European sources which are more local to you.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/connectors.html
http://vintageconnections.com/
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
http://www.electrosport.com/accessories/connectors-and-wiring.html
* http://www.cycleterminal.com/index.html
* https://prowireusa.com/
* https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html
* https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=120
* https://electricalconnection.com/
.

Red: thanks for those great links lots of interesting stuff.Today i found some good videos from Motorcycle MD on youtube and he is using a crimptool that
is better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcRb27qlwf8
.It has a w shape jaw and then it is no need to turn the terminal 180 degree.I found it also in the first link you posted under crimptools http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html
FRH-07

Old Rider





Seriously, excellent write up, I learned some things, thank you!
[/quote]

Thx Steve I'm learning too when it comes to electrical stuff I'm a novice.Today found some videos from Motorcycle MD on youtube It is the same link as posted in answer to Red
He got many other good motorcycle fixing videos on the channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcRb27qlwf8

Old Rider

Quote from: fj1289 on October 05, 2021, 09:28:27 PM
For crimped connections (really anything NOT in a multiple pin connector) I like using a product called Ox-Gard.  It is basically dielectric grease with metal shavings added in - protects against corrosion and increases connectivity.   Really good stuff.  DO NOT use in multi-pin connectors - can cause shorting between the connections if it gets smeared around a bit. 

I google it and seems like a good product

red

Quote from: Old Rider on October 06, 2021, 03:54:57 AM
Quote from: red on October 05, 2021, 04:23:11 PMOld Rider,
A heavier version of the crimping tool would be better, but that one can get the job done.  Where the pix say to crimp the last "lugs" of a pin into the insulation, I like to fold the "lugs" over the insulation using small pliers, then put the "lugs" into the concave side of the crimper, opposite of what the pix show.  That's just me, maybe.
Red: thanks for those great links lots of interesting stuff.Today i found some good videos from Motorcycle MD on youtube and he is using a crimptool that
is better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FcRb27qlwf8
.It has a w shape jaw and then it is no need to turn the terminal 180 degree.I found it also in the first link you posted under crimptools http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Tools/tools.html
FRH-07
Old Rider,
Happy to help.    :hi: 
There are many good crimpers on the market.  There is an entire science to the subject, which is well worth knowing.
Here is a bit more on the FRH-07 crimper.  Good information there about use and results.

https://hem.co.jp/eng/product_08.html
.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Old Rider

Today i had a look in the Yamaha workshop manual to see if it was mentioned anything about the low fuel light and fuel sender.
I usually don't read much in the electrical part of the manual and was happy to see that there was many helpful tests to do on the electrical units.
I have recently bought a multimeter so today i jumped on the bike and did some testing.
After the tests was done it seams i have to get a new fuel sender to get the low fuel light work.I think i take a closer look at the sender in the winter maybe it can be fixed
I have taken some pictures from the manual that i will post in the files section .

Old Rider

I have now fixed the low fuel warning light not working when fuel get low.After some searching on internet and youtube i found that it was most
likely a tiny little thing called thermistor that sits inside a little canister inside the gas tank =)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEmbRJKlSeI
.Thermistors is impossible to find here in Norway so i ordered 5 different types all with 1K resistance from Digi-Key .They where cheap only 1-2 usd each.Shipping was extreme fast from USA to Norway Placed order afternon 11th October and the early morning at 13th October a nice ups lady ringed my doorbell with the package !must be a record ?
The thermistor i installed gets very hot and i also suspected that it may has a short because of me not installing it careful enough.when i did first test
ride i was a little nervous that the hot thermistor (or short)  might ignite the gas in tank making a bomb but I'm over 50 so...
Made a little writeup how i repaired the Thermistor ,but have to throw out a Warning if anyone will do the same repair i did .I'm not a professional and have no guaranty that this is safe
You can read about the repair in this tread  http://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=20133.msg205995;topicseen#msg205995


red

Old rider,

Sorry, man, but putting random electronic parts into a gas tank seems very foolish to me.  Attempting such a repair for the convenience of having an idiot light is even worse.

Unless you can find exactly the correct part, and install it properly, I would strongly suggest that you remove that replacement for your "unknown specs" part.  If you must disconnect all wiring to the sender, then do so.  Simply fill the gas tank more often, and track the distances you travel between fuel stops. 

THIS POOR REPAIR IS NOT A MINOR RISK, AND THE RESULTS COULD BE HORRENDOUS. 

If necessary, replace the fuel sender entirely, until you can get the correct parts to repair your fuel sender.  A good used part would be far better (safer) than the "repaired" fuel sender in the gas tank now.  If you need to send to England (or anywhere else) to get used parts, please do so.

Best wishes, my friend.
Cheers,
Red

P.S. Life is too short, and health is too valuable, to ride on cheap parade-duty tires.

Old Rider

Quote from: red on October 18, 2021, 09:08:14 AM
Old rider,

Sorry, man, but putting random electronic parts into a gas tank seems very foolish to me.  Attempting such a repair for the convenience of having an idiot light is even worse.

Unless you can find exactly the correct part, and install it properly, I would strongly suggest that you remove that replacement for your "unknown specs" part.  If you must disconnect all wiring to the sender, then do so.  Simply fill the gas tank more often, and track the distances you travel between fuel stops.  

THIS POOR REPAIR IS NOT A MINOR RISK, AND THE RESULTS COULD BE HORRENDOUS.  

If necessary, replace the fuel sender entirely, until you can get the correct parts to repair your fuel sender.  A good used part would be far better (safer) than the "repaired" fuel sender in the gas tank now.  If you need to send to England (or anywhere else) to get used parts, please do so.

Best wishes, my friend.

Thanks for your advice Red ,but i have seen others done the same repair.They have used 1k thermistor  as i did.I have now done some more testing how
hot it gets and what happens if shorting the wires on it, but that is very unlikely.I now feel confident that nothing bad can happend.If later i find
out something bad can happend i just take the bulb out or cut of the green/brown wire at the connector from sender.
I made an update in the tread now after some more testing  https://www.fjowners.com/index.php?topic=20133.msg205999;topicseen#msg205999